Topic: Yamaha RX-V373 PS PRT error (Read 11340 times)
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I think it might be the transistor Q7. When I measure across its collector and base the amp turns off with a current protect error. If i do the same test on any of the other channels, i get 52.8V.
Edit:
I managed to find the correct spec eventually (Yamaha have used center collector not center base like everyone seems to make for this transistor) and am going to order 10 tomorrow. Once they are ordered I will swap the suspected faulty one for a good one from one of the other channels. If that fixes it then when the new ones arrive I’ll replace all 5 of them.
« Last Edit: May 06, 2020, 11:26:53 pm by Majorbob »
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So I’ve checked the hFE of the suspect faulty transistor and one from a good channel, both are reading around 130, which is correct by the datasheet. Swapping the two transistor locations has also not had any effect, the fault is still present in the centre channel. At this point I think it’s a faulty power amplifier IC (STK433) which I’ve already replaced once.
Can anyone shed some more light on this?
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I added a load (10ohm resistor) across the centre channel speaker terminals and the DC value rose to 016. With this resistor in place I checked voltages across all of the speaker outputs and the fault has appeared in the front right channel (the one that had the original 50V fault when I first changed the IC). Adding a load across this channel as well the DC value has risen to 042 (within tolerance).
This makes me want to change the main power IC and all of the power transistors. Would this be the recommended action?
« Last Edit: May 07, 2020, 09:33:20 am by Majorbob »
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Using the load gave me an idea. I bypassed C35 and R74 (and the Front Right equivalents) and it had the same effect as adding a load, so turning the amp on normally I found it stayed on with no fault code.
Is one of these components going to be a fault or is this a red herring?
Update: I’m able to ground it straight from the power IC and the fault goes. Makes me firmly believe it’s a power IC error again?
« Last Edit: May 07, 2020, 09:37:04 am by Majorbob »
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Wow they started putting Hybrids in the RX-V series? Didnt know that . That they made all amps discrete.
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Yeah, it’s got 2 STK433s. A 130 for the rear L/R and a 330 for the front 3 channels.
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Wow they started putting Hybrids in the RX-V series? Didnt know that . That they made all amps discrete.
A few of their lower end units did for a while. Back to discrete now.
edit: I have a few original STK’s of this type which I inherited when my shop closed, if anyone in the U.S. is interested. We can work something out.
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New IC arrived today! Have soldered it in, replaced the thermal compound on everything and have a DCPRT: 000 error… F***. Measuring the voltage across the center channel I get 2.75V (approximately 20V less than before) now I really want to know where this voltage is coming from 😫.
Does anyone think they can work it out?
I have attached an image of the relevant part of the schematics. The red line going from the IC through the channel goes to the speaker out.
Edit:
When the back panel is grounded to the bottom panel, I have DCPRT: 000. When I remove that connection the readings change. PSPRT: ~190 (high) DCPRT: jumps to 255 then settles down to ~110 (high) nominal for DCPRT is 27-88.
Edit 2:
I mis-measured the FL and FR channels, they have the same -2.75V
« Last Edit: May 18, 2020, 08:04:39 pm by Majorbob »
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Wow they started putting Hybrids in the RX-V series? Didnt know that . That they made all amps discrete.
A few of their lower end units did for a while. Back to discrete now.
edit: I have a few original STK’s of this type which I inherited when my shop closed, if anyone in the U.S. is interested. We can work something out.
Unfortunately I’m across the pond.
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I have managed to work on it again. Using the removed IC I made a test bench to play around and understand what is changing what. I found that the +/- Pre voltages were very important in setting the DC offset on the output. (Pins 1 and . Checking these in the amplifier I found -pre to be -2.1V and +pre to be 0V when these should be +-53.3V. Following them back I found them to have their own power circuits starting with 10Ohm resistors which were reading a very high resistance. Replaced these and it works.
Thanks to everyone who has helped me with this, I’ve learnt a massive amount!
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Hi, i have yamaha 373 and appears to have similar simptoms as yours. It was not coming on, i replaced a cap on the stdby board, now it comes on and shuts down after few seconds, your post is very helpful. i removed both STK and unit is showing PRT089H now, would you mind sharing which resistors you changed, the numbers would be helpful. I can only find one R113 with 100ohm value. Appreciate the help.
I will start checking the voltages next.
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Do you have the service manual? If you enter self diagnostic function it will help you greatly in finding the actual fault. When you are checking voltages you must ground it as shown in the manual (rear panel, heatsink and «G3» on the main board all connected to the base with leads, I used crocodile clips on both ends). If you don’t it will give you false readings on the PSPRT.
A PSPRT fault will cause it to turn off instantly, a DCPRT fault will cause it to turn off after ~5 seconds.
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A quick update — I had some chance to work on the unit and check all power transistors (Q7 — Q11) for channels with DMM, all seems to be fine. The respective collector resistors are ok as well. I decided to re-solder one of the SDK CHIP (for surround sound), the other one is still out and i am in diagnostic mode. I also checked voltages on the connectors, compare with service manual and seems to be correct
CB136 — have 5.5 V and -40v for -VP
CB134 — has + and — 12v as well -40v for -VP, PS-pRT is 1.02 as oppose to 1.6 but i think it is within tolerance.
CB132- has correct/close engouh voltages — 8.6V, 2.2V, 6.5V, 0V — not sure about pin 2, it should be 3.3V i am getting 2.2.
I need to figure out to connect all boards outside of the unit so i can measure voltages on the power transistors, may be deal with it tomorrow.
Any help and suggestions would be appreciated.
Majorbob, would appreciate any help regarding the resistor numbersl. SO far i checked few resistors, R93, R112, R113, R114, R67, R69,R65,R75,R63,R62,R70,R73,R76R80,
Saga continue for another day.
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Majorbob, Thanks for reply. I am getting DC PRT 089H error and it is taking about 5 seconds to shut down. I have the service manual and I have used the alegator clip and use the correct ground. You mentioned that you changed few resistors to fix your issue, what was the resistor numbers?
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If you look in self diagnostic section 9 in the service manual it tells you the ranges for PSPRT and DCPRT. I had incorrect values on + — PRE values for the STKs. Tracing this back I found that R18, R22 were gone. It wasn’t complete failure though, they should be 10 Ohm and I had 1 reading ~100kOhm and one 10kOhm.
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If you have DCPRT 089, then I’d expect the PRE voltages to have a slight imbalance. Check the voltages on pins 1 and 8 of the STK433-330 you should have the same on both (just one +ve and one -ve).
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Thanks.
R18 and R22 checked out fine.I will check STK433-330 in next few days and report back. Getting bit frustrated with the unit, want to take a break for few days.
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The voltages should be there regardless but if the 2 ICs are not in place you won’t have an accurate DCPRT reading anyway, its measuring the voltage at each of the speaker outputs.
With your multimeter take a look at all of the voltages around the ICs and compare them with the values stated on page 90 (Main 1/3 schematic).
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i was able to take voltage measurements on both STK IC, and yes they are off.
-pre is -46.46V, it is suppose to be 52.6
+Pre is 44.3v, it is suppose to be 52.6.
St-By (pin 13) is 5V, it is suppose to 2.8V
Trace back to the to its power source, all resistors, capacitor and transistors are checking out good. I am getting the correct -B and +B voltages Q2 and Q6. -pre supply is good till R22 on Q6, the voltage drops to 46.46 ( same as -Pre) after the R22, the resistor is checking out good in and out of the board. I am also seeing the same behavior on B+, it is correct till R18 and then drops to 44.3 (same as +Pre), the resistor tested good and correct value. I will try to replace these resistors anyways to see it that fixes it, need to order resistors now.
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That definitely says to me R18 and R22 need replacing. Don’t worry too much about the standby voltage, the pin needs 2.5-5.5V to set the IC as ON so your 5V is within spec for the IC. However as it has increased I’d check R32 (22K).
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I replaced the resistor today and unfortunately it still goes in DC protect mode. I used the dignostic mode and check all the voltages again, all good except the important one
-pre is -46.46V, it is suppose to be 52.6
+Pre is 44.3v, it is suppose to be 52.6.
I checked all the channel resistors, transistors and capacitors and they all look good. I have the once IC1(STK433 330) out during all this process, decided to put that back in. Now it immediately shuts down, nothing on display either. It will not even go in diagnostic mode, i think the IC is bad, even though it does not explain the low voltages for PRE. I will order one from China and it will take about 3 weeks, if that does not fix it i will recycle the sucker or use for parts. One way or other i learned a lot in the process and there is no price for that.
Thanks for all the help.
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I know this is an old thread but I am currently working on one of these units
The STK was dead short pre + to centre channel.
I have replaced this but am now getting the PRT error 000 & there is 20 volts at the Front right channel.
Pre voltages measure 55v
Transistors etc seem fine & the 10 ohm resistors in the power supply are also fine.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
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You will have 2 PRT readings, PS and DC. Before worrying about the PSPRT you want to fix that DCPRT. Do you have the service manual?
You’ll want to follow that DC voltage back and find out how it’s getting through. Check all voltages around the STK and if you can get a scope on there to see what voltage is coming from where.
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I bought a new stk433-330 I believe
Anyway with ch3 out disconnected I have
Pre — 54.34v
Pre + 54.96v
Vcc- 55.53v
Vcc+ 55.44v
Stand-by 2.79v
These seem high if I connect the stk ch3 output pre- fluctuates & of course amp cuts out with 20v on Front right channel
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PRE+- and VCC+- are a little high but not enough to be concerning, Standby voltage is fine. Do you have 20VDC coming from CH3 of the STK? Or is it appearing on the output with CH3 not connected?
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Topic: Receiver Yamaha RX-V577 DC PRT 000L protection problem (Read 14777 times)
0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
Hello,
I have a Yamaha RX-V577 receiver with protection mode activated. When i started self-diagnostic function, is show in your display DC PRT 000L. Based on the service manual, is a DC amplifier problem. So i checked the amplifier board and i found a -48.1 V in the collector transistor (Q2129), but the manual says it should have -1.033 V in the collector transistor. The attached image shows the transistor problem. I already did the replacement transistor 2sc2229 without success. Does anyone have any suggestion? Sorry my bad english.
The service manual can be downloaded by link:
https://www.4shared.com/office/Wd2r_eB-ei/service_manual_yamaha_rx-v477_.html
« Last Edit: August 22, 2017, 02:53:45 am by briangg191 »
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Just FYI… you’ll need to put the image somewhere other than Photobucket for anyone to see it.
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Thanks for reply. I changed the image server.
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What is the DC voltage at the EMITTERS of the output transistors? On the affected channel — or is there a DC problem on all channels?
This is critical information.
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Hello,
The problem is just at the center channel. I have the same DC voltage (-44.0V) at the emitters of the output transistors (Q2155, Q2154). But if i take off (Q2129) transistor, i have 0V DC voltage at the emitters of the output transistors.
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What are your voltages like around Q2116 and Q2124? I am guessing that there may be a lack of bias current at Q2124 via Q2116. This would leave the collector at Q2129 floating close to the negative rail voltage as soon as it is turned on.
Perhaps resistor R2145 is o/c?
« Last Edit: August 24, 2017, 02:46:56 pm by WaveyDipole »
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I’m suspecting the differential pair Q2102 and Q2109. Pretty common problem. Yamaha recommends replacing those transistors on all seven channels. Fourteen transistors in all.
Part number WK452300
These are surface mount transistors.
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WaveyDipole,
The voltages like arround Q2116 and Q2124 are -44.0 V DC. The same voltage at the Q2129 transistor collector. The R2145 resistor measures 100 ohms, that´s ok.
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mzacharias,
I ordered the 2SC2713 transistor parts.
Sorry for my delay answers.
Thanks guys.
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Hey guys,
So i replaced the fourteen 2SC2713 transistors, but the the problem to be continued. Any more suggestions?
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The differential pair’s emitter current might be too low, check the 10K resistor and that it has the correct voltage across it.
The voltage across R2145 will indicate the Voltage Amplifier’s operating current. About 5ma.
« Last Edit: October 20, 2017, 06:47:23 am by xavier60 »
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Hioki AS100D vom, HP 54645A dso, Fluke 87V dmm, AN8008 dmm, Agilent U8002A psu, FY6600 function gen, Brymen BM857S, New! HAKKO FM-204
I see you have a service manual? Have you used the Protection Cancel Mode to facilitate troubleshooting?
«If the protection function works and causes hindrance
to troubleshooting, cancel the protection function by
the procedure below, and it will be possible to enter the
selfdiagnostic function mode. (The protection functions
other than the excess current detect function will be
disabled.)
While pressing the “TONE CONTROL” and “INFO” keys,
press the (Power) key to turn on the power and keep
pressing those 2 keys and (Power) key for 3 seconds
or longer.
The self-diagnostic function mode is activated with the
protection functions disabled.
In this mode, the “SLEEP” segment of the FL display
flashes to indicate that the mode is self-diagnostic
function mode with the protection functions disabled.»
This will allow you to troubleshoot at your leisure without interference from the protection circuit. You can look at any of the protection triggers, and see what monitored voltages are wrong or missing.
« Last Edit: October 21, 2017, 01:32:19 pm by mzacharias »
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Helo guys.
The topic creator has moved on I imagine, but I am having the same problems with a Yamaha RX-A3040.
It started with a noise like a tv with no signal on the front channels and after a while progressed to all channels.
I still used it as a processor for a while, with an external amp, but the decided to run a firmware update to clean the software.
After that, it worked for a few seconds, turned off and now it only powers up with the protection bypass procedure.
It the shows these codes
DSP MARGIN
&
DC PRT 0000L
I´ll check tonite if there is really DC on the outputs, but reading the topic it seems that it might be a little bit difficult to debug than that, right ?
Until then, any educated guesses ?
Thank you very much for any and all help.
Mauricio
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All channels are outputing around -10VDC
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In the service manual there is a «Protection Cancel» mode that allows you to troubleshoot a problem such as this. Press and hold Tone/Balance and Info and continue to hold them down while pressing Main Zone (Power), and continue to hold them for 2-3 seconds.
The problem is likely some power supply voltage missing or wrong, or an amplifier offsetting bias voltage missing.
You seem to have the service manual; the procedure is described on page 30 of the PDF.
I tried to upload the manual to HiFi Engine but the upload «hung» at 99% twice in a row — don’t know if it made it.
There’s some latency there anyhow, could be a few days before it would show up.
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#1 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Manual says DC output of power amplifier is abnormal. Power supply board looks to be ok, 5.5V is good. Looks like I need to go deeper, where do I start? |
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#2 |
Badcaps Veteran Join Date: Jun 2012 City & State: ☻ My Country: Canada I’m a: Professional Tech Posts: 8,771 |
Check for shorted output transistors |
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#3 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Thanks for the tip. So I’m looking on the MAIN amp board, powered off, measuring impedance on all transistors. Will have to do some disassembly first to get to them all. |
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#4 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Ok, the big transistors on the heat sink all seem to be not-shorted. Any advice on next step? Thanks in advance. |
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#5 |
Badcaps Veteran Join Date: Jun 2012 City & State: ☻ My Country: Canada I’m a: Professional Tech Posts: 8,771 |
Check the voltage on all the output channels, this is usually at the common point of the ceramic emitter resistors of the output transistors or the output to the speakers BEFORE the output protection relay. This offset voltage needs to be close to 0 volts. Upload the service manual
Last edited by R_J; 05-13-2020 at 05:13 PM.. |
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#6 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Service manual attached. What boards do I need to reconnect and power up to check these voltages? |
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#7 |
Badcaps Veteran Join Date: Jun 2012 City & State: ☻ My Country: Canada I’m a: Professional Tech Posts: 8,771 |
Which boards do you have disconnected? I would think you need all of them connected. Check the voltages on (page 108) the center of R2249 for the FL channel. or any point on that line that you can access like SCN-SCN 5P and 4P |
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#8 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
I took the digital board and Operation(4) board out to get to the output transistors. Once I put the boards back, getting to measure more than 2 of these resistors (C + FL) will be a bit tricky to impossible. |
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#9 |
Badcaps Veteran Join Date: Jun 2012 City & State: ☻ My Country: Canada I’m a: Professional Tech Posts: 8,771 |
what about the position on page 21, that should allow access to the main board. Don’t forget the ground jumper leads.
Last edited by R_J; 05-13-2020 at 08:32 PM.. |
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#10 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by R_J what about the position on page 21, that should allow access to the main board. Don’t forget the ground jumper leads. That looks doable. Let me reassemble and pop the back off. |
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#11 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by R_J Which boards do you have disconnected? I would think you need all of them connected. Check the voltages on (page 108) the center of R2249 for the FL channel. or any point on that line that you can access like SCN-SCN 5P and 4P All the ceramic resistors are 0V, except R2249, showing -9.8VDC on the 3 legs. |
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#12 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Some voltage readings: |
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#13 |
Badcaps Veteran Join Date: Jun 2012 City & State: ☻ My Country: Canada I’m a: Professional Tech Posts: 8,771 |
That will be the problem channel, You should be able to compare resistance etc. to a good channel to find the problem. It is only -10v so it might be hard to locate the cause of the offset. |
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#14 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Thanks R_J, To confirm, I’ll power down and check device resistance & compare to good channel? Looking at everything from resistors, diodes, transistors and caps? |
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#15 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Found some components that don�t meter like the others. Time to order some parts. |
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#16 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Also found C2165 to have lower resistance. This one is a mlyar cap, hard to find. Seems like only NTE has it, so I’ll order everything from there, as best they have it. |
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#17 |
Badcaps Veteran Join Date: Jun 2012 City & State: ☻ My Country: Canada I’m a: Professional Tech Posts: 8,771 |
I doubt the cap C2165 has a problem, they are very reliable. there are many things that can throw off the readings, The meter uses a small voltage to check resistance so ANY stray voltage in the circuit will throw off the reading one way or the other. I would suspect either a resistor that change value (went high in value) or a leaky transistor, which might not show up in a resistance check. slightly biased on a bit more than Q2136 or Q2150. You might need to chack as farback in the circuit as Q2114, Q2121. There are dc voltages given on the schematic, did you check how close they were?
Last edited by R_J; 05-20-2020 at 12:25 PM.. |
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#18 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
The parts arrived and sat for a few weeks. Finally pulled the unit off the shelf and started pulling parts. C2135 was dead for sure, no capacitance measured. Replaced. I also replaced Q2107 & Q2114. The rest of the suspect parts I pulled from the board and measured out of circuit, all came in fine. The unit now powers up fine. I’m getting a 39-40 mV reading on R2249 (all 3 legs are the same). Other resistors are 0.000V. It was -9.8V before, so much better. Should I be worried about 40mV there? I guess I can start looking at circuit voltages and compare to the schematic. |
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#19 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Voltages measured in protect mode is showing 50mV. (prior measurement showing 40mV was not in protect mode). I’m not smart enough with analog circuits to figure out where the issue lies. |
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#20 |
Badcaps Veteran Join Date: Jan 2015 City & State: worcester My Country: United Kingdom I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 3,547 |
q21174 q2107 need a matched pair . |
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Post by dmaumau on Oct 16, 2019 12:36:57 GMT -5Hello guys, I have an Aventage 3040 and the front channels began showing some crackling sounds, as if the amps had no current to drive the speakers and some time later just heavy noise. Sometime later all channels went down the same way. Now I got it in protect mode and bypassing it the error code I got is dc-prt-000l-protection-problem Also I got -10VDC in all channels. I´ve been looking for tips all around and found several threads ranging from output transistors, low DC voltages (?) and even something related to HDMI boards. Do anyone have had some experiences like this and could point me to the right direction ? mastertech I´ve seen you in some related posts, so any thoughts ? Also, anyone has the service manual for this receiver ? Thank you very much guys. |
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Last Edit: Oct 16, 2019 12:48:14 GMT -5 by dmaumau |
rh1 New Member
Posts: 9 |
Post by rh1 on Apr 23, 2020 15:58:57 GMT -5Hi dmaumau, |
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#1
I have had this Yamaha reciever for 2 years, and one day it hit a snag. I noticed ‘Crackling’ noises on the left speaker. I shut it off, then 2 days later I turned it on, the crackling started, then blasted through the left speaker then the reciever shut off, then when I pressed the power button the LED only blinked. It has been sitting on the shelf in my basement for a while, and now I took it up, and opened it up. I checked the power supply, good. Then, I tried the Straight — Info — Tone Control buttons and power button, and it powered up, and said codes — DC PRT : 0 L, and A1-1 DSP MARGIN. Along with that, the Sleep light was blinking and Zone 2 was solid on, even though it wasn’t plugged in. I turned the volume on mute thinking it disables the amp, but after a good 30 seconds while searching, I smelled burning silicon, and saw smoke with a fire. I unplugged it and the fire went out on its own. I opened it more, and found a resistor, fully black. Before it wasn’t. With the codes showing before the burning silicon, I was able to navigate the menu. I never plugged in a display, maybe that would of shown more info?? Anyway, I dont know what caused the short. Any ideas of what was causing the short? If you need more info, its in the Left Front speaker channel. Thanks, and of course, warranty ended, so its fully Home Fix. Any ideas?
- Aug 27, 2008
- 14,936
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#2
Doesn’t sound like a home fix. Your recent actions have made it worse.
If the receiver is an expensive one then a good tech would be needed. If there isn’t a local one United Radio in Syracuse NY is excellent.
If it’s not a mid to high end model it may not be worth the expense to repair. You could try contacting Yamaha. They might offer you a deal on a «B» stock unit.
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#3
I recently got back to working on it. I have alot of resistors, so I’m going to try and replace the resistor, and see if it burns or not. If it doesn’t after a good 5 minutes, it’s highly a dead resistor that blew for loosing overall max current. But I have to say, Yamaha receivers are good at detecting shorts .
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#4
Hi, i don’t know if you will check this site again anytime soon but, I have the same Yamaha with the Same Error DC prt 0 L, i found on in amp section (SL speaker amp) the DC Bias is at -10.0V way to high, iv been hunting for a open resister as everything else test good. did you ever figure out ??
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#5
Hi, i don’t know if you will check this site again anytime soon but, I have the same Yamaha with the Same Error DC prt 0 L, i found on in amp section (SL speaker amp) the DC Bias is at -10.0V way to high, iv been hunting for a open resister as everything else test good. did you ever figure out ??
No, I just gave up on the project and just bought an Onkyo. They have more features and are usually just better.
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- 19 Май 2015
Прошу помочь,кто сталкивался с этим ресивером,было выбито 2 канала унч на нижней плате (центр и левый фронт) ,был залит (хотя точно неизвестно от чего он сдох ) После всех отмывок выпаял дохлые выходники и раскачку в обоих дохлых каналах,попытался запустить-в диагностику входит с надписью Ps PRT:000 J, при отключении разьема с защитами С8453 от процессорной платы ошибка Ps PRT:059J.-проц работает..В AD DATA CHECK: DC:007 PS:000. Опытным путем выяснил,что на значение PS PRT отвечает контакт PRV,а детектом постоянки на выходе (DC) сигнал PRO…. что должно быть на PRV в рабочем режиме???? (даже без питания на унч ведет себя также абсолютно,унч восстановил)
- 20 Май 2015
- 21 Май 2015
sergeisam сказал(а):
А в мануале не указано ?
http://monitor.net.ru/forum/yamaha-…-ax757se-rx-v657-htr-5860-download-18299.htmlГде находится этот контакт «PRV» ?
У меня, сейчас в ремонте есть YAMAHA RX-397. Если там подобное построение защиты, могу посмотреть и замерить .
Там все защиты одним коннектором идут на процовую плату.у меня какаято проблема еще образовалась.с бп через линейный стаб идет 3.3 вольта (3.3d)так при включении ресака на этом контакте появляется 5.5 вольт….идет именно не с бп а с платы…хз пока разбиоаюсь…и нет сигнала с датчика температуры (тупо 3 выводной) питание земля и выход…на выходе должно быть 1 вольт.у меня 0.5…
- 22 Май 2015
Все разобрался.кондеры после кренок и саме главное не было болта на нижней плате унч.все поставил и защита заработала штатно.
- 22 Май 2015
aurum сказал(а):
jenek, а отметить «решено» ?
Модераторы разве что сжалятся, отметят как «нерешенную» твою тему, а если нет, то создаешь новую с пометкой «продолжение» .
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#1 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Manual says DC output of power amplifier is abnormal. Power supply board looks to be ok, 5.5V is good. Looks like I need to go deeper, where do I start? |
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#2 |
Badcaps Veteran Join Date: Jun 2012 City & State: ☻ My Country: Canada I’m a: Professional Tech Posts: 9,055 |
Check for shorted output transistors |
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#3 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Thanks for the tip. So I’m looking on the MAIN amp board, powered off, measuring impedance on all transistors. Will have to do some disassembly first to get to them all. |
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#4 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Ok, the big transistors on the heat sink all seem to be not-shorted. Any advice on next step? Thanks in advance. |
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#5 |
Badcaps Veteran Join Date: Jun 2012 City & State: ☻ My Country: Canada I’m a: Professional Tech Posts: 9,055 |
Check the voltage on all the output channels, this is usually at the common point of the ceramic emitter resistors of the output transistors or the output to the speakers BEFORE the output protection relay. This offset voltage needs to be close to 0 volts. Upload the service manual
Last edited by R_J; 05-13-2020 at 05:13 PM..
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#6 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Service manual attached. What boards do I need to reconnect and power up to check these voltages? |
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#7 |
Badcaps Veteran Join Date: Jun 2012 City & State: ☻ My Country: Canada I’m a: Professional Tech Posts: 9,055 |
Which boards do you have disconnected? I would think you need all of them connected. Check the voltages on (page 108) the center of R2249 for the FL channel. or any point on that line that you can access like SCN-SCN 5P and 4P |
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#8 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
I took the digital board and Operation(4) board out to get to the output transistors. Once I put the boards back, getting to measure more than 2 of these resistors (C + FL) will be a bit tricky to impossible. |
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#9 |
Badcaps Veteran Join Date: Jun 2012 City & State: ☻ My Country: Canada I’m a: Professional Tech Posts: 9,055 |
what about the position on page 21, that should allow access to the main board. Don’t forget the ground jumper leads.
Last edited by R_J; 05-13-2020 at 08:32 PM..
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#10 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by R_J what about the position on page 21, that should allow access to the main board. Don’t forget the ground jumper leads. That looks doable. Let me reassemble and pop the back off. |
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#11 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by R_J Which boards do you have disconnected? I would think you need all of them connected. Check the voltages on (page 108) the center of R2249 for the FL channel. or any point on that line that you can access like SCN-SCN 5P and 4P All the ceramic resistors are 0V, except R2249, showing -9.8VDC on the 3 legs. |
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#12 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Some voltage readings: |
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#13 |
Badcaps Veteran Join Date: Jun 2012 City & State: ☻ My Country: Canada I’m a: Professional Tech Posts: 9,055 |
That will be the problem channel, You should be able to compare resistance etc. to a good channel to find the problem. It is only -10v so it might be hard to locate the cause of the offset. |
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#14 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Thanks R_J, To confirm, I’ll power down and check device resistance & compare to good channel? Looking at everything from resistors, diodes, transistors and caps? |
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#15 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Found some components that don�t meter like the others. Time to order some parts. |
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#16 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Also found C2165 to have lower resistance. This one is a mlyar cap, hard to find. Seems like only NTE has it, so I’ll order everything from there, as best they have it. |
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#17 |
Badcaps Veteran Join Date: Jun 2012 City & State: ☻ My Country: Canada I’m a: Professional Tech Posts: 9,055 |
I doubt the cap C2165 has a problem, they are very reliable. there are many things that can throw off the readings, The meter uses a small voltage to check resistance so ANY stray voltage in the circuit will throw off the reading one way or the other. I would suspect either a resistor that change value (went high in value) or a leaky transistor, which might not show up in a resistance check. slightly biased on a bit more than Q2136 or Q2150. You might need to chack as farback in the circuit as Q2114, Q2121. There are dc voltages given on the schematic, did you check how close they were?
Last edited by R_J; 05-20-2020 at 12:25 PM..
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#18 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
The parts arrived and sat for a few weeks. Finally pulled the unit off the shelf and started pulling parts. C2135 was dead for sure, no capacitance measured. Replaced. I also replaced Q2107 & Q2114. The rest of the suspect parts I pulled from the board and measured out of circuit, all came in fine. The unit now powers up fine. I’m getting a 39-40 mV reading on R2249 (all 3 legs are the same). Other resistors are 0.000V. It was -9.8V before, so much better. Should I be worried about 40mV there? I guess I can start looking at circuit voltages and compare to the schematic. |
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#19 |
New Member Join Date: May 2020 City & State: California My Country: USA I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 18 |
Voltages measured in protect mode is showing 50mV. (prior measurement showing 40mV was not in protect mode). I’m not smart enough with analog circuits to figure out where the issue lies. |
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#20 |
Badcaps Veteran Join Date: Jan 2015 City & State: worcester My Country: United Kingdom I’m a: Knowledge Seeker Posts: 3,755 |
q21174 q2107 need a matched pair . |
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13 минуты назад, минздрав сказал:
И что вы все к ним привязались? Мастеру отнеси, он решит, что поменять.
но он вообще не работал, пока его не поменял. теперь включается и работает некоторое время.
1 час назад, ROMMo сказал:
В мастерской так отсеивают халявщиков, и хитрожопых клиентов.
да я бы с удовольствием заплатил за ремонт(дешевле чем новый покупать), но вариант если найдем-починим меня не устраивает, хватит я уже отдавал телевизор в ремонт в прошлом году, деньги взяли, а починить не починили.
2 часа назад, KRAB сказал:
ищи нормального МАСТЕРА
где бы его у нас найти
2 часа назад, KRAB сказал:
с такими «знаниями»
я не спорю, знаний мало, я про это в первом посте написал. просто перед тем как второй припаять, решил посмотреть в инете. насколько я понял если 2 последовательно, то сопротивление 1+1 будет 0,094, поэтому переспросил, может я не так понял. все мы когда то учились
- Статус темы:
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Тема автоматически закрыта так как в ней не было ответов более 60 дней.
Без кнопки повер, нет реакции на 2 кнопки эти вообще. А вот если зажать их и вставить в розетку то режим… Перейти к полному сообщению
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Всем привет товарищи! Есть YAMAHA RX-V373 с проблемой включается и сразу через 2 секунды выключается. Визуально ни че не сгорело ни че не пахнет. Было подозрение на микросборки STK усилители, откусил у обоих лапки 2 и 3 это их питание. Аппарат все равно не включается полноценно. Если зажать 3 кнопки и подержать включается и не отключается. Куда копнуть еще кто может сталкивался?
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kep58
Команда форума
Модератор- Страна:
- Регистрация:
- 25.10.2016
- Сообщения:
- 633
- Паяльная станция:
- Lukey852D
- Мультиметр:
- VC97, VC61, MS8239C, MS8910, Gy560, CapEsrFbt, BR886A
- Осциллограф:
- UTD2102CEL, C1-112
- Программатор:
- RT809F, CH341A, Postal2, SeeProg
- Другое оборудование:
- Changer 4 in1, Mega328 M328 LCR-T4 12846 ЖК-Цифровой, TKDMR 0-250 В, MCH-K305D PSU
karabin87, Попробуй так:
Зажать кнопки INFO+TONE control
Держать и при этом нажать Power
Запустится сброс ошибок, потом просто включить, выключитьь и все ок -
дак вот именно что пробовал я уже это все. Тут че то аппаратное. И прошивал его уже тоже.
Ошибку кажет TMP3PRT: 055L -
kep58
Команда форума
Модератор- Страна:
- Регистрация:
- 25.10.2016
- Сообщения:
- 633
- Паяльная станция:
- Lukey852D
- Мультиметр:
- VC97, VC61, MS8239C, MS8910, Gy560, CapEsrFbt, BR886A
- Осциллограф:
- UTD2102CEL, C1-112
- Программатор:
- RT809F, CH341A, Postal2, SeeProg
- Другое оборудование:
- Changer 4 in1, Mega328 M328 LCR-T4 12846 ЖК-Цифровой, TKDMR 0-250 В, MCH-K305D PSU
karabin87, А так: tone control и straight
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Без кнопки повер, нет реакции на 2 кнопки эти вообще. А вот если зажать их и вставить в розетку то режим прошивки включается.
Вычитал что эта ошибка температуры радиатора, пробовать термодатчик поменять что ли.— Сообщения объединены, 19 июн 2020, Дата первого сообщения: 22 янв 2020 —
И так товарищи буду описывать решение данной проблемы так как нигде я не нашел даже намека как ее победить. Короче данная ошибка TMP3PRT: 055L действительно относится к термодатчику, как я из начально думал. Но точнее это ошибка не термодатчике а в терморезисторе! Который находиться на плате MAIN на обратной стороне под обозначением TH3 номинал его (NCP18XH103J03RB) который контролирует температуру линии формирования питания +B и -B Там короче стоит диодный мост D19 а на другой сторонетакая маленькая хреновина похожая на катушку или смд резистор, но суть не в этом. Проверяем питание на разъеме CB222 (контакт 21) платы DIGITAL нормальный уровень сигнала THM3 составляет 2.9В так же он должен приходить на процессор IC225 (pin 110). В моем случае было всего 0.67В как на разъеме так и на процессоре. И теперь че я сделал: я отпаял терморезистор (но думаю этого можно не делать) и принудительно подав на 21 контакт разъема СВ222, 2.9Вольта нажал на кнопку включения, и прикол в том что аппарат завелся блин! Потом я его выключил снова включил он включился без проблем. Потом припаял назад терморезистор, он кстати рабочий, его сопротивление 10 кОм при нагреве меньше делается. Собрал все включаю, опять 2 секунды и выключается. Нажимаем tone control и straight и кнопку включения сбрасываем ошибки, выключаем. Включаем аппарат он включается и все работает! Я советую прошить его последней прошивкой, прикреплю прошивку и схему к посту. Вот так вот я победил этот аппарат! по Русски сказать зае…я просто капец)))) Теперь всю схему на изусть блин знаю похоже. А прошивать можно как флешки на плате с помощью программатора, или через флешку нажатием INFO+TONE control на выключенном аппарате и вставить в розетку, сработает реле и начнется прошивка! Все в принципе что хотел рассказать, всем спасибо!
Вложения:
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самому скоро предстоит похожую ямаху разбирать, только там проблема при прибавление громкости вырубается, но как то тоже странно , заметил что связано с длительностью работы, как бы нагревается и отрубы чаще становятся, так что может быть и термодатчик шалит, как раз твоё решение поможет проверить
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А прошивать не пробовали, скорее прошивка. Еще может что stk уже подустали, точнее одна какая то. Ну может и термодатчик, не терморезистор! Терморезистор там питание контролирует на температуру.
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разберу посмотрим, он мой, как то особо желания разбирать нет
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- Мой мир
- Вконтакте
- Одноклассники
- Статус темы:
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Тема автоматически закрыта так как в ней не было ответов более 60 дней.
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