Ошибка p3193 тойота приус - Решение и исправление самых разных ошибок на TopOshibok.ru

Всем привет. Сегодня не завел приуса. Маслает секунд 3-5 и отключается. Вылезают ошибки. Считал ошибки ELM сканером. P3190, P3191, P3193. Список не исправностей попадающий под эти ошибки очень внушительный. См. рисунок. В интернете ничего толкового не нашел. Писал один человек похожую ситуацию, решилось заменой на конткрактый бензонасос. Т.к. ошибка P3193 прямо указывает на отсутствия топлива, полез доставать бензонасос. Вскрыл, ничего криминального не увидел, подал на него 12В, бензонасос работает. Собрал все на место. По совету одного из форумчан выкрутил свечи, свечи мокрые т.е. бензин попадает в камеру сгорания, поменял на живые старые. Итог один. Двигатель пытается завестись и глохнет, ошибки теже. Завтра поеду на эвакуаторе к электрику, потому что ковыряться самому на морозе -20 руки отваливаются.
Может у кого-то была подобная ситуация, как решили вопрос. Собираю статистику. Не знаю с чего начать копать завтра.

PS Чем же закончилось дело?!
Основной версией всех злоключений — отсутствия подачи бензина (перемерзание бензопровода, либо бензина с водой, бензонасоса, фильтров и т.д.). Ошибка P3193 прямо намекает на отсутствие топлива. Перелопатив и проверив бензонасос, фильтр, свечи и не выявив никаких нарушений в работе, мысли зашли в тупик.
Хочу ещё раз упомянуть симптомы, когда авто не заводилось. Наступали холода, машина отказывалась заводится, крутит но не схватывает, выскакивали 3 ошибки (см. выше) Когда получалось ее завести, авто работало как и раньше, не было никаких затупов, на горячую заводилась с полпинка, газ в пол и машина летит. Но чем ниже опускалась ночью температура, тем сильнее пылесос отказывался заводится. Съездил на диагностику не было выявлено никаких нарушений. В очередное морозное утро Приус не завелся. Чтобы подтвердить версию о перемерзании трубопровода, решено купить балончик «быстрый старт» и напрямую попытаться завести авто. И что в итоге. После обильного пшикания авто завелось и даже не ЗАГЛОХЛО! Все опять заработало как раньше. Сама собой напросилась версия подмерзания дросселя. Вечерком заехал в теплый гараж, раскидал впуск, прочистил дроссель клинером и после высыхания обильно смазал WDкой шкив дросселя и пружину слева от корпуса.
В итоге машина утром завелась с полпинка. Вот так вот бывает. По сути подмерзавший дроссель не приоткрывался при заводке авто и во впуск не поступал воздух не давая двигателю работать.

Пробег: 157 000 км

3 weeks ago on a Tuesday, my check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone to check the code and it was something with the catalytic converter. I scheduled to have it looked at the following Tuesday (soonest I could get it in since I had class all day Monday), but by Thursday the light turned off. My dad’s theory was a chunk of ice (I live in Wisconsin). Our mechanic said to call him if it came back on.

Well, last Tuesday it did and when I brought it in today, the code was now P1393: fuel run out. My mechanic is not hybrid savvy (yet) and was afraid because his research said it might be hybrid battery related. I just got a new hybrid battery in July, so that can’t be it. Either way, he said take it to the dealership and I’m super reluctant to do so. The guys there were assholes when my hybrid battery needed to be replaced and they also wanted to charge me $600 to change the headlights shortly after I bought it.

I thought I’d ask here first before going to the dealership. Google tells me P3193 means I just ran out of gas and yes, it has happened maybe 3 times since I’ve owned the car, but it’s never given me just a «check engine» when that’s happened (usually multiple warning lights). I was low-ish on gas (2-3 pips) when the light came on. I’ve found I can do 40 miles post «add fuel.» I managed to get to the point where it asked for fuel, did another 40 miles and put gas in last night before I dropped her off. Any ideas?

iPad ?
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Hmmm. I don’t want to sound sarcastic, but I really think you should not push the Prius when it comes to the fuel gage. Quite a few on this forum refer to the gage as a «guess» gage rather than a gas gage or fuel gage.

If I were you I would get into the habit of refueling when you get down to two pips or three pips. Unless the gage is out of calibration, you normally will not run out of fuel doing that. Note I said normally. There have been exceptions to that rule.

My best advice would be this for a out of gas situation with a Prius. Add four «FULL» gallons of fuel to the Prius in one setting. Then try to start the Prius and get it into «Ready Mode». If the Prius won’t start and or go into «Ready Mode», then try disconnecting the 12 volt battery for about 30 seconds, then reconnect it and try to start the Prius again. At that point the Prius should recognize the fuel and since you unhooked the battery most if not all of any codes present «should» be cleared.

Give that a shot. If you gets you back on the road, from then on make it a practice of buying fuel «sooner» than you do now. Several here on Prius Chat will say if you drive on a flashing pip, you are simply playing Russian Roulette. Sooner or later that live shell is going to come up and get you.

Hope this helps you. Let us know how it all works out.
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Also, it is very possible that I am confused at this point. I am under the impression you are out of gas, but your last few words said you put fuel in it.

If you truly ran out of gas after you added the fuel, then my next question would be did you add more than three gallons of fuel when you put the gas in.
I may have been confusing in my manner of speaking. I’m not out of gas. I wasn’t out of gas when the check engine light came on the second time, considering I had only driven 200 miles since I last filled up. The code I got from my mechanic was P3193: fuel run out. I’m trying to understand what this means because my mechanic isn’t hybrid savvy and I really don’t want to bring it to the dealership if I don’t have to.
Just a long shot, but check that your gas cap is on nice and tight (take it off and put it back on again). There have been a few people who’ve reported getting a code (not sure which one though) due to not having it on tight.
Well, I’ve filled up since the check engine light came on the second time, so if that was it, it’d be hard to say if that was the case. And in the quick call to cancel the original appointment, the mechanic suggested that as well since I didn’t mention the catalytic converter during the call.
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There have been enough reports here of miscellaneous generic code readers giving false readings, that it is too soon for any certainty. The iced exhaust pipe theory has merit, given your location. The present out of gas code sounds suspicious.

There is a frequent PC’er, ericbecky in Madison. Hopefully he will chime in. If you ever get there, he could help. I realize you are a poor student, but if you can part with $30, then get the mini VCI (Prius code reader) on eBay, and you will be able to know more about these sorts of intermittent problems than your mechanic. It will pay for itself over the life of the car.
Maybe the P3193 code was an old «stored» code and unrelated to the check engine light problem that seemed to resolve itself.

I guess I would be remiss without asking how your 12 volt battery health is.
My mechanic said the catalytic converter code was an old stored code and P3193 was the current one. I don’t even know how to check the 12v battery, to be honest…
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cyberpriusII
Prodigyplace says I’m Super Kris

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Just to reiterate — What Dorunron and Frey said <check battery>…
DTC P3193 is logged by the engine ECU and points to an out-of-fuel situation. Hence, if that DTC is current, that does imply that your car very recently ran out of fuel.

I would like to encourage you, as a Prius owner, to modify your refueling practices so that you avoid future out-of-fuel episodes without fail. That is definitely very bad for the car (especially the traction battery) and might not be so great for you, depending upon where you are left on the side of the road.

One very easy way to check the 12V battery is to turn on the headlights when the car is IG-OFF. If the lights are dim, that is a clear indication that the battery is weak.

Of course, if you can figure out how to use the MFD to get a numeric reading, or if you have a digital multimeter to measure battery voltage, even better.
The light came on when I was 200 miles into a full tank. Not out of gas. When I filled up last night (8.43 gallons), I actually had all pips on my gas gauge, whereas the last few times the pump has stopped and I was down 1 pip. 12-8.43=3.57, not 0. That’s what makes it confusing. If I wasn’t out of gas when the check engine light came on, why was the DTC P3193: fuel run out? Are there other circumstances that would generate that same code?
Did you notice the engine seem to lose power at all. Like for example only running on electric when you would have thought the engine should also be providing power?

Anyway test the battery as soon as possible, any other attempt at diagnosis is pointless until that one is determined. Use the procedure linked above by Ron. No tools or meters required, just follow the procedure in the first post here: Weird stuff happening? MPGs dropping? Test The Battery | PriusChat
I wonder if your fuel pump is going out or fuel filter is clogged. I would wait for whatever it is to get worse. It will be easier to fix when the check engine light stays on consistently. If the fuel delivery system is messed up it could seem like you are out of gas to the computer. How many miles do you have?
1. It is incorrect to assume that you are starting with 12 gallons, after the fuel tank has been filled. The actual capacity of the Prius fuel tank can vary widely especially in cold ambient temps, due to the flexible bladder. Might be as low as 9 gallons in very cold climates.

2. It was previously suggested that the fuel pump or fuel filter might be getting flaky, thus impacting fuel flow to the engine. One check that could be made is to measure fuel rail pressure, which should be > 43 psi. This is something that you can have a mechanic to do for you.

If it turns out that fuel rail pressure is low, the solution is to replace the fuel tank since the pump and filter are located within and cannot be separately replaced. The circuit opening relay also should be tested to make sure that dirty relay contacts are not the reason for low voltage getting to the fuel pump and negatively impacting fuel rail pressure. That relay is one of four relays located in a module, within the main relay/fuse box next to the inverter.
To be honest, I don’t always hear the gas engine turn on or off because I usually have the music loud (25) unless I’m at a light and it turns off. It feels like it’s running normally, though.

I tried to do the battery check when I got home from a 30 min drive, but the headlight method wasn’t working. I had to run upstairs to get the other method, which worked. Here’s what it said:

13.9v

The gas engine had kicked on when I pulled up the battery check (I had to repark my car anyway, now that enough snow has melted to see the lines in the parking lot), which sounds like it was starting to charge again. Should I try it again when I haven’t put it into ACC mode 4+ times?

Mr.Electric, I have 123k miles.

Patrick Wong, I’m going to assert once again that I was not out of gas when the check engine light came on. I had put at least 8 gallons in 2 days prior, driven 200 miles and even though I’ve been getting around 37mpg with the weather, 8 gallons would give me at least 296 miles. Besides, if I was out of gas when the check engine light came on, how the hell could I have driven another 100 miles? Even if we go by the 8 gallons instead of 12, mathematically there’s no way I could have been out of gas after 200 miles, when the check engine light went on.

So fuel rail pressure and the circuit opening relays should be checked, it seems.
BTW. You are supposed to test the 12V with the ignition off. Ignition on does not tell you anything because the inverter is supplying the power in ignition on. Also, you should perform this test after the car sits overnight for a true reading. Furthermore, Patrick Wong is one of the best people to receive help from on this forum… Alienating him with abusive comments is equal to you going to the bank and setting up a direct payment link to your local Toyota Dealer. Just sayin’.
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raspberry,

Honestly, I think you are letting the Prius bladder mislead you. As Patrick Wong pointed out the capacity is far less than you believe.

From everything you have stated, it would not surprise me one bit that you really did run out of gas. However, since we do not know if the fuel system is working properly certain tests have to be made. Again Patrick Wong suggested the pressure of the fuel rail be tested. Any mechanic can check that for you.

Also, if you really want to check the 12 volt properly do it after the Prius has set overnight. The 13.9 volts really doesn’t help you much other than showing that the charging system is working. What really tells the most is the voltage in the first part and the second part of the test.

I honestly believe you should develop a habit of buying fuel BEFORE the second pip disappears and NOT wait until the flashing pip is showing and then driving 40 miles after that. You are inviting a out of gas situation.

Ron (dorunron)
The non-headlight instructions said to turn the power on, if it wasn’t already on. It didn’t specify ignition on or ACC mode. It also said in those instructions to check it after the car has been driven for 30 minutes, giving it a chance to fully charge. I’ll recheck it tomorrow morning, seeing as I got conflicting information.

I didn’t mean to be abusive, but I was getting frustrated with being told I had to have run out of gas to get the P3193 code when I knew it was impossible for me to have been out of gas when the check engine light came on. I know that I put in over 8 gallons and had driven 200 miles, so it was impossible to be out if gas at that point. I’d accept the theory that I really did run out of gas if the math said otherwise. I didn’t know about the fuel bladder thing until I started investigating this code, so while it may seem possible that I truly could have been out of fuel, I was giving additional information to confirm that I wasn’t. I know now that «full» doesn’t always mean full, but 8 gallons is still 8 gallons. My apologies if my tone wasn’t the greatest when trying to convey this.

I really do appreciate the help because I’m fairly clueless when it comes to cars. I know I shouldn’t wait until the last minute to get gas, but I also tend to wait until the last minute to get my homework and reading done as well. Both are bad habits. And there often are times when it’s Thursday, I’m down to 2 pips, have $20 in the checking account and no food in the house. Previous experience has shown that I can go at least 50 miles after the flashing pip, so I’ll hit the grocery store and wait until I get paid on Tuesday to fill up. These are the decisions one has to make when on a very tight budget. I know I’m taking a chance when I do that, but sometimes that’s the way it has to be. And sometimes I forget I was low on gas the night before and there just isn’t time to stop before the 25 min drive to school. Excuses, excuses. I know. Just pointing out that while I know I should be better about the gas thing, it’s not always an option.

Расшифровка ошибки P3193 у Toyota: Низкое напряжение в цепи датчика кислорода (блок 1, датчик 2)

Марка:

Toyota

Код:

P3193

Определение:

Низкое напряжение в цепи датчика кислорода (блок 1, датчик 2)

Описание:

Активное управление A / F: Выполняется Напряжение аккумулятора: 11 В или более ECT: 167 ° F (75 ° C) или более Холостой ход: ВЫКЛ. Обороты двигателя: Менее 3200 об / мин. Состояние датчика A / F: Активировано. Состояние топливной системы: Замкнутый контур Прекращение подачи топлива: ВЫКЛ. Нагрузка двигателя: от 10 до 70% Положение переключения: 4-е или более Напряжение аккумулятора: 11 В или более Расчетная температура заднего датчика HO2S: 842–1382 ° F (450–750 ° C) P0607: Не задано

Причина:

Обрыв в цепи датчика HO2 (датчик 2)
Датчик HO2 (датчик 2)
Нагреватель датчика HO2 (датчик 2)

< li>Датчик соотношения воздух-топливо (A / F) (датчик 1)

Утечка газа из выхлопной системы

Бюллетени связанных услуг:

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Опрос: Где ремонтируется Ваш автомобиль? (Кол-во голосов: 1645)

У себя в гараже

У официалов

В гараже у Васи

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From english:

Decoding the error P3193 from Toyota: Oxygen Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

Make:

Toyota

Code:

P3193

Definition:

Oxygen Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

Description:

Active A/F control: Performing Battery voltage: 11 V or more ECT: 167°F (75°C) or more Idle: OFF Engine rpm: Less than 3200 rpm A/F sensor status: Activatted Fuel system status: Closed loop Fuel cut: OFF Engineload: 10 to 70% Shift position: 4rd or more Battery voltage: 11 V or more Estimated rear HO2S temperature: 842-1382°F (450-750°C) P0607: Not preset

Cause:

Open in HO2 sensor (sensor 2) circuit
HO2 sensor (sensor 2)
HO2 sensor heater (sensor 2)
Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) sensor (sensor 1)
Gas leakage from exhaust system

Related Service Bulletins:

View This Bulletin

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Да, лично

Да, с помощью знакомого

Да, у официального дилера

Нет

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Поставьте рейтинг, для нас это очень важно:

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Спасибо большое за самый полыный список ошибок!…

Найдена следующая информация по ошибке P3193 для автомобиля TOYOTA PRIUS (2015-201_) XW50:

На русском языке:

Это не часто встречающаяся неисправность в электрической цепи двигателя или автоматической коробки передач, вероятнее всего специфическая для Вашей марки автомобиля.

На английском языке:

OBD2 not find in catalog.

Вы можете задать вопрос или поделиться опытом устранения ошибки P3193 на автомобиле TOYOTA с другими пользователями.

Возможную причину возникновения и советы по устранению можно найти в каталоге причин и советов:

Найти причину >>>

Ошибки (коды ошибок) полученные от прибора, сканера требуют правильной интерпретации информации, дабы не тратить время и деньги на замену работающих элементов автомобиля.

Проблема зачастую кроется намного глубже чем кажется на первый взгляд. Это& вызвано теми обстоятельствами, что информационные сообщения содержат, как было выше сказано, косвенную информацию о нарушении работы системы.

Может быть полезным для решения вопроса по устранению неисправности у Toyota Prius:

С учетом редкости и неоднозначности данной ошибки, мы не можем найти конкретный исчерпывающий ответ на вопрос причины возникновения неисправности.

Данная ошибка является специфичной для Вашей марки автомобиля, рекомендуем, либо обратиться на специализированный автосервис .

Источник

Пробег: 157 000 км

Гибридная установка автомобиля сложна и запутана для понимания рядовым пользователем. По этой причине, коды ошибок Toyota Prius многочисленны, что дополнительно усложняет процедуру поиска проблемы и ремонта.

Содержание

1 Toyota Prius: расшифровка ошибок
- 1.1 C1310: ошибка Приус
- 1.2 С 1378 — неисправность Приус 20
- 1.3 C1344 — поломка Prius
- 1.4 Prius: ошибка C1391
- 1.5 Приус 10: ошибка С2544
- 1.6 Prius: неисправность C2600
- 1.7 B126A — код Prius
- 1.8 Приус 20: неисправность U0100
- 1.9 U029a — поломка Приуса
- 1.10 U0293 — поломка
- 1.11 P0A0D: код неисправности Prius
- 1.12 P0A0F — код Prius
- 1.13 Поломка Приус 30: P0A7F
- 1.14 Приус: поломка P0AA6
- 1.15 Ошибка Приус 30: P0A01
- 1.16 P0A08 — поломка Приус
- 1.17 P0A09 — код
- 1.18 P0A37 — неисправность Prius 20
- 1.19 Приус 30: ошибка Р0А40 и Р0А41
- 1.20 P0A80 — ошибка Prius
- 1.21 Ошибка P0A93
- 1.22 Ошибка Р0137: Приус 20
- 1.23 P0420 — ошибка
- 1.24 Ошибка Prius 30: P0852
- 1.25 Приус 20: поломка P1116
- 1.26 Prius: ошибка P1121
- 1.27 Ошибка P181B: Prius 30
- 1.28 P3000 — ошибка Prius 11
- 1.29 P3102 — ошибка
- 1.30 P3004 131 — ошибка Приус 30
- 1.31 P3107 — неисправность Prius
- 1.32 P3190 — поломка
- 1.33 P3191 — код Prius
- 1.34 Ошибка VSC: Prius 20
- 1.35 Приус 20 — неисправность: переход в режим EV теперь недействителен
- 1.36 Приус 30 — ошибка: проверка гибридной системы
- 1.37 Prius 20: неисправность P/S
- 1.38 Приус 20: поломка HV
2 Как сбросить ошибки на Приусе
3 Итог

Далее приведены распространенные неисправности и проблемы, возникающие во время эксплуатации автомобиля.

Toyota Prius: расшифровка ошибок

Большинство кодов автомобиля выводятся на дисплее бортового компьютера. При этом, шифры самодиагностики недостаточно информативны для полноценного ремонта или обслуживания машины.

Чтобы получить более подробное описание на русском языке, следует подключить диагностический сканер. Прибор и покажет полноценный список неисправностей.

C1310: ошибка Приус

Проблема говорит, что рекуператор тормозной системы глючит. Отправляйтесь на диагностику – способность подзарядки тяговой АКБ снижена.

С 1378 — неисправность Приус 20

Поломка магистрали питания конденсатора. Обычно причина находится в отсутствии связи с модулем АБС.

C1344 — поломка Prius

Ошибка АБС. Имеется потеря давления в заднем левом колесе. Остановитесь и подкачайте покрышку. Может сбоить сенсор, что особенно актуально при езде по разбитым дорогам.

Prius: ошибка C1391

Снижена эффективность торможения. В системе присутствует потеря герметичности или неисправен усилитель. Для устранения проблемы полностью «прочешите» магистраль.

Приус 10: ошибка С2544

Быстрый разряд элемента питания ВВБ. Модуль требуется продиагностировать на наличие утечки тока.

Prius: неисправность C2600

Бортовой компьютер обнаружил потерю связи в гибридной установке. Обычно проблема заключается в перегорании предохранителей.

B126A — код Prius

Модуль блокировки двигателя работает неправильно. Выполните диагностику сети.

Приус 20: неисправность U0100

Потеря связи между блоком ДВС и электромотором. Система глючит.

U029a — поломка Приуса

Имеются окисления или повреждение контактов батареи. Помогает очистка элементов за крышкой возле педали газа.

U0293 — поломка

Потеря связи ВВБ с модулем управления гибридной установкой. Система нуждается в срочной диагностике.

P0A0D: код неисправности Prius

Ошибка ВВБ указывает на потерю контакта с модулем управления. Причиной может стать нарушение контрольной цепи устройства.
Prius

P0A0F — код Prius

Проблема – двигатель не завелся. При возникновении подобной ошибки обратитесь к квалифицированному мастеру. Неисправность связана с более весомыми неприятностями.

Поломка Приус 30: P0A7F

Типичная проблема для машин с пробегом. Указывает на критическую потерю емкости тяговой батареи. Элементы питания проблематично реанимировать и обычно их меняют на новые ячейки.

Приус: поломка P0AA6

Проблема находится в инверторе и наличии влаги. Элементы конструкции требуется диагностировать на предмет повреждений.

Ошибка Приус 30: P0A01

ДТОЖ конвертора напряжения вышел из строя или передает неправильные данные. Нужно проверить сенсор и его проводку на наличие повреждений.

P0A08 — поломка Приус

Аккумуляторная батарея АКБ износилась или повреждена.

P0A09 — код

Инвертор напряжение не активируется или работает неправильно. Необходимо проверить состояние контактов или силовых магистралей.

P0A37 — неисправность Prius 20

Поломка цепи датчика температуры электродвигателя. Тщательно осмотрите систему на наличие повреждений и протестируйте датчик.

Приус 30: ошибка Р0А40 и Р0А41

Потеря связи с элементами коробки передач. Все решается проверкой и переделкой магистралей.

P0A80 — ошибка Prius

Блок управления трансмиссией обнаружил проблему на участке гибридного БУ аккумуляторами машины. Лечится только полной диагностикой.

Ошибка P0A93

Поломка помпы гибридной установки. Устройство не пригодно к ремонту, модуль следует менять целиком.

Ошибка Р0137: Приус 20

Слишком низкое напряжение ДК1. В выхлопе присутствует слишком много кислорода. Обычно поломка связана с ухудшением контактов проводки или окислением сенсора.

P0420 — ошибка

Эффективность катализатора ниже минимального порога. Проблема актуальна для машин с большим пробегом или авто, ездящих на низкосортном топливе. В этой ситуации ставят обманку или меняют банку нейтрализатора.

Ошибка Prius 30: P0852

Подобную проблему обычно выдают датчики тормозной системы. Часто ошибки связаны с намоканием проводки или окислением контактов.

Приус 20: поломка P1116

ДТОЖ передает неправильные данные или вышел из строя. Сенсор меняют на заведомо исправный.

Prius: ошибка P1121

Реостат системы охлаждения двигателя проверяют на наличие повреждений. Клапан заело в одном положении.

Ошибка P181B: Prius 30

Ошибка гибридной установки. Проведите диагностику сетей и магистралей.

P3000 — ошибка Prius 11

Слишком низкий уровень заряда высоковольтной батареи. Долейте топливо в бак или перезагрузите БК.

P3102 — ошибка

Неисправность гибридной системы. Требуется более подробная диагностика автомобиля.

P3004 131 — ошибка Приус 30

Инвертор напряжение глючит. Замените поврежденный узел.

P3107 — неисправность Prius

Потеряна связь с подушками безопасности. Проблема находится в программном глюке оборудования – перезапуск системы должен помочь. Если ошибка не уходит — выполните полную проверку цепи.

P3190 — поломка

В топливной системе автомобиля обнаружены серьезные проблемы. Тщательно проверьте узлы, отвечающие за подачу бензина в камеру сгорания.
Проблема может указывать на неполадки зажигания смеси.

P3191 — код Prius

Запуск силовой установки затруднен. Требуется очистка дроссельной заслонки и диагностика системы зажигания.

Ошибка VSC: Prius 20

Ошибки модуля указывают, что система стабилизации авто работает неправильно или перестала откликаться на команды. Требуется детальная диагностика, при которой может появиться несколько проблем. Неприятности связаны с датчиками или поврежденной проводкой.

Приус 20 — неисправность: переход в режим EV теперь недействителен

Если с автомобилем технически проблем нет, система самостоятельно отключается при появлении следующих факторов:

критически снизился заряд высоковольтной батареи;
силовой АКБ перегрелся;
превышена допустимая скорость передвижения на электротяге.

Если условия соблюдены, ищите проблему в ПО и датчиках, контролирующих работу авто в данном режиме.

Приус 30 — ошибка: проверка гибридной системы

Причинами подобных поломок наиболее часто выступают факторы.

Износ или повреждение датчиков.
Неполадки в проводке автомобиля.
Проблемы с ДВС или ВВС.

Prius 20: неисправность P/S

Типичная поломка для авто, бывавших в ДТП или после замены рулевой рейки. Чувствительный ЭУР легко повредить ударами или сильной вибрацией, что также не исключено при езде по «уваленным» дорогам. Также некоторые водители сталкивались с проблемой по причине износа дорожек электроусилителя.

Приус 20: поломка HV

Модуль гибридной системы работает неправильно. Требуется более тщательная диагностика и определение конкретной ошибки. Проблема связана с повреждением проводки высоковольтной батареи.

Как сбросить ошибки на Приусе

Здесь есть несколько вариантов развития событий.

Сброс скрепкой

Для этого потребуется закоротить контакты диагностического разъема, как показано на фото ниже.

Далее нужно включить зажигание и в течение 3 секунд быстро нажать педаль тормоза 8 раз подряд. После этого ошибки обнулятся.

Подразумевает подключение диагностического сканера и последующий сброс при помощи стороннего оборудования. Здесь все также просто. Нужно присоединить модуль к машине и следовать инструкции изготовителя.

Также перезагрузить систему можно, отключив питание от низковольтной батареи на 10 минут. При этом, БК будет сброшен до «чистого» состояния.

Итог

Считать коды поломок Приуса недостаточно. Требуется устранить причины их появления, что проблематично для неподготовленного пользователя. При наличии дефектов рекомендуется обратиться к квалифицированному мастеру.

Специализация: Закончил государственный автомобильный университет, проработал 20 лет на ГАЗ-56, сейчас езжу на жигулях.

3 weeks ago on a Tuesday, my check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone to check the code and it was something with the catalytic converter. I scheduled to have it looked at the following Tuesday (soonest I could get it in since I had class all day Monday), but by Thursday the light turned off. My dad’s theory was a chunk of ice (I live in Wisconsin). Our mechanic said to call him if it came back on.

Well, last Tuesday it did and when I brought it in today, the code was now P1393: fuel run out. My mechanic is not hybrid savvy (yet) and was afraid because his research said it might be hybrid battery related. I just got a new hybrid battery in July, so that can’t be it. Either way, he said take it to the dealership and I’m super reluctant to do so. The guys there were assholes when my hybrid battery needed to be replaced and they also wanted to charge me $600 to change the headlights shortly after I bought it.

I thought I’d ask here first before going to the dealership. Google tells me P3193 means I just ran out of gas and yes, it has happened maybe 3 times since I’ve owned the car, but it’s never given me just a «check engine» when that’s happened (usually multiple warning lights). I was low-ish on gas (2-3 pips) when the light came on. I’ve found I can do 40 miles post «add fuel.» I managed to get to the point where it asked for fuel, did another 40 miles and put gas in last night before I dropped her off. Any ideas?

iPad ?
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Hmmm. I don’t want to sound sarcastic, but I really think you should not push the Prius when it comes to the fuel gage. Quite a few on this forum refer to the gage as a «guess» gage rather than a gas gage or fuel gage.

If I were you I would get into the habit of refueling when you get down to two pips or three pips. Unless the gage is out of calibration, you normally will not run out of fuel doing that. Note I said normally. There have been exceptions to that rule.

My best advice would be this for a out of gas situation with a Prius. Add four «FULL» gallons of fuel to the Prius in one setting. Then try to start the Prius and get it into «Ready Mode». If the Prius won’t start and or go into «Ready Mode», then try disconnecting the 12 volt battery for about 30 seconds, then reconnect it and try to start the Prius again. At that point the Prius should recognize the fuel and since you unhooked the battery most if not all of any codes present «should» be cleared.

Give that a shot. If you gets you back on the road, from then on make it a practice of buying fuel «sooner» than you do now. Several here on Prius Chat will say if you drive on a flashing pip, you are simply playing Russian Roulette. Sooner or later that live shell is going to come up and get you.

Hope this helps you. Let us know how it all works out.
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Also, it is very possible that I am confused at this point. I am under the impression you are out of gas, but your last few words said you put fuel in it.

If you truly ran out of gas after you added the fuel, then my next question would be did you add more than three gallons of fuel when you put the gas in.
I may have been confusing in my manner of speaking. I’m not out of gas. I wasn’t out of gas when the check engine light came on the second time, considering I had only driven 200 miles since I last filled up. The code I got from my mechanic was P3193: fuel run out. I’m trying to understand what this means because my mechanic isn’t hybrid savvy and I really don’t want to bring it to the dealership if I don’t have to.
Just a long shot, but check that your gas cap is on nice and tight (take it off and put it back on again). There have been a few people who’ve reported getting a code (not sure which one though) due to not having it on tight.
Well, I’ve filled up since the check engine light came on the second time, so if that was it, it’d be hard to say if that was the case. And in the quick call to cancel the original appointment, the mechanic suggested that as well since I didn’t mention the catalytic converter during the call.
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There have been enough reports here of miscellaneous generic code readers giving false readings, that it is too soon for any certainty. The iced exhaust pipe theory has merit, given your location. The present out of gas code sounds suspicious.

There is a frequent PC’er, ericbecky in Madison. Hopefully he will chime in. If you ever get there, he could help. I realize you are a poor student, but if you can part with $30, then get the mini VCI (Prius code reader) on eBay, and you will be able to know more about these sorts of intermittent problems than your mechanic. It will pay for itself over the life of the car.
Maybe the P3193 code was an old «stored» code and unrelated to the check engine light problem that seemed to resolve itself.

I guess I would be remiss without asking how your 12 volt battery health is.
My mechanic said the catalytic converter code was an old stored code and P3193 was the current one. I don’t even know how to check the 12v battery, to be honest…
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Prodigyplace says I’m Super Kris

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Just to reiterate — What Dorunron and Frey said <check battery>…
DTC P3193 is logged by the engine ECU and points to an out-of-fuel situation. Hence, if that DTC is current, that does imply that your car very recently ran out of fuel.

I would like to encourage you, as a Prius owner, to modify your refueling practices so that you avoid future out-of-fuel episodes without fail. That is definitely very bad for the car (especially the traction battery) and might not be so great for you, depending upon where you are left on the side of the road.

One very easy way to check the 12V battery is to turn on the headlights when the car is IG-OFF. If the lights are dim, that is a clear indication that the battery is weak.

Of course, if you can figure out how to use the MFD to get a numeric reading, or if you have a digital multimeter to measure battery voltage, even better.
The light came on when I was 200 miles into a full tank. Not out of gas. When I filled up last night (8.43 gallons), I actually had all pips on my gas gauge, whereas the last few times the pump has stopped and I was down 1 pip. 12-8.43=3.57, not 0. That’s what makes it confusing. If I wasn’t out of gas when the check engine light came on, why was the DTC P3193: fuel run out? Are there other circumstances that would generate that same code?
Did you notice the engine seem to lose power at all. Like for example only running on electric when you would have thought the engine should also be providing power?

Anyway test the battery as soon as possible, any other attempt at diagnosis is pointless until that one is determined. Use the procedure linked above by Ron. No tools or meters required, just follow the procedure in the first post here: Weird stuff happening? MPGs dropping? Test The Battery | PriusChat
I wonder if your fuel pump is going out or fuel filter is clogged. I would wait for whatever it is to get worse. It will be easier to fix when the check engine light stays on consistently. If the fuel delivery system is messed up it could seem like you are out of gas to the computer. How many miles do you have?
1. It is incorrect to assume that you are starting with 12 gallons, after the fuel tank has been filled. The actual capacity of the Prius fuel tank can vary widely especially in cold ambient temps, due to the flexible bladder. Might be as low as 9 gallons in very cold climates.

2. It was previously suggested that the fuel pump or fuel filter might be getting flaky, thus impacting fuel flow to the engine. One check that could be made is to measure fuel rail pressure, which should be > 43 psi. This is something that you can have a mechanic to do for you.

If it turns out that fuel rail pressure is low, the solution is to replace the fuel tank since the pump and filter are located within and cannot be separately replaced. The circuit opening relay also should be tested to make sure that dirty relay contacts are not the reason for low voltage getting to the fuel pump and negatively impacting fuel rail pressure. That relay is one of four relays located in a module, within the main relay/fuse box next to the inverter.
To be honest, I don’t always hear the gas engine turn on or off because I usually have the music loud (25) unless I’m at a light and it turns off. It feels like it’s running normally, though.

I tried to do the battery check when I got home from a 30 min drive, but the headlight method wasn’t working. I had to run upstairs to get the other method, which worked. Here’s what it said:

13.9v

The gas engine had kicked on when I pulled up the battery check (I had to repark my car anyway, now that enough snow has melted to see the lines in the parking lot), which sounds like it was starting to charge again. Should I try it again when I haven’t put it into ACC mode 4+ times?

Mr.Electric, I have 123k miles.

Patrick Wong, I’m going to assert once again that I was not out of gas when the check engine light came on. I had put at least 8 gallons in 2 days prior, driven 200 miles and even though I’ve been getting around 37mpg with the weather, 8 gallons would give me at least 296 miles. Besides, if I was out of gas when the check engine light came on, how the hell could I have driven another 100 miles? Even if we go by the 8 gallons instead of 12, mathematically there’s no way I could have been out of gas after 200 miles, when the check engine light went on.

So fuel rail pressure and the circuit opening relays should be checked, it seems.
BTW. You are supposed to test the 12V with the ignition off. Ignition on does not tell you anything because the inverter is supplying the power in ignition on. Also, you should perform this test after the car sits overnight for a true reading. Furthermore, Patrick Wong is one of the best people to receive help from on this forum… Alienating him with abusive comments is equal to you going to the bank and setting up a direct payment link to your local Toyota Dealer. Just sayin’.
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raspberry,

Honestly, I think you are letting the Prius bladder mislead you. As Patrick Wong pointed out the capacity is far less than you believe.

From everything you have stated, it would not surprise me one bit that you really did run out of gas. However, since we do not know if the fuel system is working properly certain tests have to be made. Again Patrick Wong suggested the pressure of the fuel rail be tested. Any mechanic can check that for you.

Also, if you really want to check the 12 volt properly do it after the Prius has set overnight. The 13.9 volts really doesn’t help you much other than showing that the charging system is working. What really tells the most is the voltage in the first part and the second part of the test.

I honestly believe you should develop a habit of buying fuel BEFORE the second pip disappears and NOT wait until the flashing pip is showing and then driving 40 miles after that. You are inviting a out of gas situation.

Ron (dorunron)
The non-headlight instructions said to turn the power on, if it wasn’t already on. It didn’t specify ignition on or ACC mode. It also said in those instructions to check it after the car has been driven for 30 minutes, giving it a chance to fully charge. I’ll recheck it tomorrow morning, seeing as I got conflicting information.

I didn’t mean to be abusive, but I was getting frustrated with being told I had to have run out of gas to get the P3193 code when I knew it was impossible for me to have been out of gas when the check engine light came on. I know that I put in over 8 gallons and had driven 200 miles, so it was impossible to be out if gas at that point. I’d accept the theory that I really did run out of gas if the math said otherwise. I didn’t know about the fuel bladder thing until I started investigating this code, so while it may seem possible that I truly could have been out of fuel, I was giving additional information to confirm that I wasn’t. I know now that «full» doesn’t always mean full, but 8 gallons is still 8 gallons. My apologies if my tone wasn’t the greatest when trying to convey this.

I really do appreciate the help because I’m fairly clueless when it comes to cars. I know I shouldn’t wait until the last minute to get gas, but I also tend to wait until the last minute to get my homework and reading done as well. Both are bad habits. And there often are times when it’s Thursday, I’m down to 2 pips, have $20 in the checking account and no food in the house. Previous experience has shown that I can go at least 50 miles after the flashing pip, so I’ll hit the grocery store and wait until I get paid on Tuesday to fill up. These are the decisions one has to make when on a very tight budget. I know I’m taking a chance when I do that, but sometimes that’s the way it has to be. And sometimes I forget I was low on gas the night before and there just isn’t time to stop before the 25 min drive to school. Excuses, excuses. I know. Just pointing out that while I know I should be better about the gas thing, it’s not always an option.

Источник

If you own a Prius, you might encounter the infamous P3193 code at some point. This code is related to your vehicle’s fuel system and can cause some headaches if not addressed. But don’t fret, understanding the code’s meaning can help you diagnose and fix the issue.

The P3193 code typically means your vehicle is out of fuel or has recently run out of fuel. This code can cause your Prius’ engine to stall or not start at all. By learning how to troubleshoot and resolve this code, you can keep your Prius running smoothly and efficiently.

Common Causes of P3193 Error

Low Engine Oil

Your Prius might experience a P3193 error due to low engine oil. Low oil levels could result in your vehicle’s engine not being properly lubricated, leading to friction and overheating. Ensure that you check your engine oil level regularly and top it up if necessary. Maintaining an appropriate oil level in your vehicle is crucial for its optimal performance and minimizing the risk of errors.

Faulty Fuel System

Another common cause of the P3193 error in a Prius is a faulty fuel system. If you’re experiencing this error, there may be a few potential culprits within the fuel system such as:

Out of fuel: Your vehicle simply could be out of fuel, and refilling the tank might resolve the issue.
Fuel pump: Ensure your fuel pump is functioning correctly and efficiently delivering fuel to your engine.
Fuel injectors: If your fuel injectors are clogged or malfunctioning, they might not be delivering the necessary fuel to the engine.

Inspecting and addressing faults within your fuel system can help fix the P3193 error and avoid more severe complications.

Failed Engine ECU

Lastly, the P3193 error might be caused by a failed engine ECU (Engine Control Module). The ECU is responsible for controlling various engine functions, and when it malfunctions, your vehicle might experience several issues, including the P3193 error. To fix this, you might need to have your ECU checked and potentially replaced by a professional mechanic.

In conclusion, regular maintenance and addressing the possible causes such as low engine oil, faulty fuel system, and a failed engine ECU can help prevent the P3193 error from reoccurring in your Prius. Remember to consult a professional mechanic if you’re unsure about addressing any of these issues.

P3193 Symptoms and Effects

Poor Engine Performance

If your Prius experiences a P3193 code, you might notice poor engine performance. This can be due to the engine having trouble starting or even stalling while driving. It’s essential to address this issue as soon as possible to avoid further damage to your engine or other components of the vehicle.

Decreased Fuel Efficiency

Another symptom of the P3193 code is a decrease in fuel efficiency. With an issue in the fuel system, your Prius may not be utilizing the fuel as efficiently as it should, leading to increased fuel consumption. To maintain optimal fuel efficiency, it is crucial to address this code and any potential issues promptly.

Check Engine Light

The P3193 code is often accompanied by the appearance of the check engine light. When the check engine light comes on, it is an indication that there is an issue with your vehicle’s engine or related components. Although the check engine light can appear for various reasons, experiencing other symptoms alongside the check engine light may indicate that the P3193 code is present.

Keep a close eye on your Prius when experiencing these symptoms and address the P3193 code as soon as possible to ensure the smooth performance of your vehicle.

How to Fix P3193 Error

Inspect Engine Oil Condition and Level

First, you should inspect your engine oil condition and level. Check your dipstick when the engine is cold and make sure the oil level is within the recommended range. Additionally, look at the oil color and consistency. If you notice that the oil is black, gritty, or has a very thick consistency, it may be time for an oil change. Healthy engine oil is typically light amber in color and has a smooth texture. Regular oil changes are essential for maintaining healthy engine performance and can help prevent a P3193 error in your Prius.

Check Fuel System Components

Next, examine your fuel system components for any potential issues. Your Prius may display a P3193 error code if the fuel runs out or if there is a problem with your fuel injectors, fuel pump, or fuel filter. Make sure you have an adequate level of fuel in your tank, and inspect any visible fuel lines for cracks or leaks. If necessary, consult a professional mechanic to diagnose potential fuel system issues and replace any malfunctioning components.

Test Engine ECU Functionality

Finally, it is essential to test the functionality of your engine ECU (Engine Control Unit). The ECU is responsible for managing your Prius’ engine performance, and a malfunctioning ECU can lead to the P3193 error code. You can try using an OBD2 scanner to scan for error codes and reset your ECU. If the code persists despite the reset, you may need to consult a professional mechanic to further diagnose P3193 error and address potential issues with your engine ECU.

By following these steps and addressing any issues found during the diagnostic process, you should be able to fix the P3193 error in your Prius effectively. Remember, regular maintenance and addressing minor issues before they become severe problems are crucial to the longevity and performance of your vehicle.

Conclusion

In conclusion, your Prius displaying a P3193 code typically indicates that it had run out of fuel at some point or might still be low on fuel. To address this issue, ensure that your car has an adequate amount of fuel and clear any remaining error codes.

Remember, it’s essential to maintain proper fuel levels in your Prius to avoid potential issues down the road. By staying aware of your vehicle’s needs, you can continue to enjoy its efficient and eco-friendly performance.

As an electric vehicle expert, I’m passionate about answering the most common questions and concerns that people have about EVs. With years of experience driving and researching electric cars, I’ve gained a deep understanding of the challenges and benefits of this rapidly evolving technology. Through my blog, I share my expertise and insights, helping readers make informed decisions about EV ownership and sustainability.

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Содержание

1 Toyota Prius: расшифровка ошибок
- 1.1 C1310: ошибка Приус
- 1.2 С 1378 — неисправность Приус 20
- 1.3 C1344 — поломка Prius
- 1.4 Prius: ошибка C1391
- 1.5 Приус 10: ошибка С2544
- 1.6 Prius: неисправность C2600
- 1.7 B126A — код Prius
- 1.8 Приус 20: неисправность U0100
- 1.9 U029a — поломка Приуса
- 1.10 U0293 — поломка
- 1.11 P0A0D: код неисправности Prius
- 1.12 P0A0F — код Prius
- 1.13 Поломка Приус 30: P0A7F
- 1.14 Приус: поломка P0AA6
- 1.15 Ошибка Приус 30: P0A01
- 1.16 P0A08 — поломка Приус
- 1.17 P0A09 — код
- 1.18 P0A37 — неисправность Prius 20
- 1.19 Приус 30: ошибка Р0А40 и Р0А41
- 1.20 P0A80 — ошибка Prius
- 1.21 Ошибка P0A93
- 1.22 Ошибка Р0137: Приус 20
- 1.23 P0420 — ошибка
- 1.24 Ошибка Prius 30: P0852
- 1.25 Приус 20: поломка P1116
- 1.26 Prius: ошибка P1121
- 1.27 Ошибка P181B: Prius 30
- 1.28 P3000 — ошибка Prius 11
- 1.29 P3102 — ошибка
- 1.30 P3004 131 — ошибка Приус 30
- 1.31 P3107 — неисправность Prius
- 1.32 P3190 — поломка
- 1.33 P3191 — код Prius
- 1.34 Ошибка VSC: Prius 20
- 1.35 Приус 20 — неисправность: переход в режим EV теперь недействителен
- 1.36 Приус 30 — ошибка: проверка гибридной системы
- 1.37 Prius 20: неисправность P/S
- 1.38 Приус 20: поломка HV
2 Как сбросить ошибки на Приусе
3 Итог

Далее приведены распространенные неисправности и проблемы, возникающие во время эксплуатации автомобиля.