Ошибка p1122 приус

Hey all, I own a 2004 Prius with about 234,000 miles on it. I finally got around to replacing the coolant control valve from error code P1121. I drained both coolant systems and refilled, using almost 2 gallons of coolant in all. Everything seemed to be fine and drove around 300 miles. Suddenly at a stop sign the red triangle, vsc, and orange ! Lights appeared so I took it home and scanned the code. P1122 was the only one that came up. All the tanks seem to be full so I’m assuming there’s not still air in the system, but I can’t find much else on this specific code. I was able to reset and the lights went off but I’d prefer to find out what’s going on before I start to drive again.

Thanks!

Are you using Techstream to retrieve the codes?You are .8gallon short! The two times I have done a drain and fill on the engine cooling loop, inverter cooling loop, and topping off the respective overflow reservoirs, I used (~3gal): 2gal engine loop, .8gal Inverter loop.1) There is air in the engine loop.
2) Did you check inside the radiator?
3) How did you bleed the engine and inverter loop?
4) READ Post #16 and #19, click the links w/in the respective posts and take notes. Inverter coolant and engine coolant flowing through the same radiator? | PriusChatSearch again.

I scanned it using an elm-327 WiFi scanner on the OBD fusion app with the upgrades so it can check hv battery codes and what not. It’s a lot like torque pro only for apple.

After researching I realize I messed up at this part but I’ll take you step by step what I did. I drained the inverter coolant by the bolt from the bottom near the atf fluid drain. As I was pulling out the broken CCV, coolant began to pour everywhere, quickly realizing that the engine and not inverter coolant ran through it. I got that cleaned up and the new CCV installed. I then began filling the inverter using the twister bleeder valve and by putting the car in ready mode then topping it back off. I did this until the level stayed close to F and I could see the water pump working correctly. For the engine coolant I filled the radiator by a combination of squeezing the hoses, jumping the motor in the relay box, then running it on and off through inspection mode with the heat on a couple of times until coolant stayed at the top of the neck and the overflow box was at a good level. I filled it using the prestone that is formulated for Toyota, it’s the exact same color as the sllc not the green/yellow stuff. Could the problem be that I didn’t drain the old fluid out enough, even though it looked fairly clean and prestone says this is compatible with any fluid? If that’s the case I can go to the dealership and buy the OEM SLLC and do a complete drain on both systems.

To answer the other questions:

I topped off the radiator a small amount after each 100 miles, seems to stay full now and the inverter also stays at the correct level.

I can find the exact posts I used once I figured out what I did wrong, to ensure that I bled the system correctly. It was a pretty in-depth walk through with accompanying videos to show the whole process.

Could the incomplete drain be causing this issue?

And I saw the basics for what the code meant, I found one post on here were the guy said there was some corrosion on his connections but that doesn’t appear to be the case with mine, they look clean.

Thanks for the assistance, I’m slowly learning more and more about the car everyday.

also from my understanding that code would be a voltage issue, so using a meter and checking the plug would probably be the next step?

Search again.
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Get Techstream since you DIY.

Techstream is the OFFICIAL diagnostic and maintenance software made for Toyota/Lexus, and used at Toyota/Lexus dealerships. Bluetooth OBD2 readers and all the various apps for smartphones/tablets are convenient (small and portable) but junk: LIMITED code reading ability (can’t read ALL codes) and can NOT do any maintenance (bleed brakes, engine compression check, activate CHRS pump, etc). Why waste money on a toy that limits what you can read and can’t do maintenance?

Get mini VCI w/ Techstream from Amazon ($18+). Doesn’t matter who you buy from, as the cables likely come from the same one or two suppliers from panda land. May have to return/buy a few, as some cables have problems (bent pins-easy to fix to dead cable-return). Installation easiest on a Windows 32bit OS (XP, Vista, 7). Ask friends/family if they know someone in IT; this person will likely have obsolete laptops laying around, and might be able to donate for free. B/C the software is hacked, recommended to install on a spare laptop; do not use this laptop for sensitive information (log in & passwords: email, bill payments, etc). This laptop is now your Toyota/Lexus diagnostic laptop. Mac install possible, you just need to search online.

Should you stop driving a Toyota/Lexus, you can easily sell your Techstream laptop set-up here. Private Sales | PriusChat​

Research better. BETTER YET, get the factory service manual or Bently service manual. You can always use your library card to access the Chilton manuals online, but the quality of info may be lacking.

For the official Toyota service/repair manuals (engine, mechanical, interior, exterior, electrical, essentially EVERYTHING), go to TIS
Two days will cost you $20. Supposedly only business days are counted . If you start on a Friday 12:00:00 AM, you have until Monday 11:59:59 PM, to finish. You can read this persons TIS visit and download adventure. Toyota TIS download tips | PriusChat

The drain&fill schedule for the engine and inverter coolant is 10years/100,000miles, whichever comes first (years or miles). Then after that every 5years/50,000miles. The protective chemical properties of the coolant wear out over time. Toyota has determined the drain/fill schedule above to protect, yet minimize the frequency of coolant change. Your 2004 should have had at least two drain&fill events: Initial in 2014 (10yr/100k miles). Then another one in 2019 (5yr/50k miles). If the car has far more miles, then it would have far more coolant drain & fill events.No.So, you checked that the voltage and resistance were w/in factor specification for the valve and ECM (Electronic Control Module), to determine whether the valve or ECM (Electronic Control Module) or both were bad?Thus the problems of reading posts and watching YouTube: accuracy of info. Factory Service manual would solve that.

Spend just a little bit more time reading. Same screenshot as above. Your ANSWER was always there; see RED CIRCLED BOX below.
Should you choose to read that PDF (which «appears» to be from the factory service manual), it provides the trouble shooting steps for DTC P1122, the specs for voltage and resistance, and which connector and pins to test, to determine which part/s (valve, ECM, or both) is/are bad.
Search words «toyota dtc p1122»

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The factory service manual does WONDERS!

YouTube can be useful. But the accuracy of the information is NOT always there. Great for entertainment and to get an idea of how involved a procedure might be. BEST to always reference the factory service manual: its the authoritative bible for your Prius.

I bought the car from someone so I’m not sure what the intervals on coolant changes were. Since I had to change the valve I figured I might as well drain and fill. I had just found it odd that before I replaced the switch the only code I had was P1121 and with the new one in it was throwing P1122. I have to find my meter then I can check the connections etc.

Quick question though, do you think it’d be worth doing a proper full drain and refill since I’ll be under the hood anyway? Or should the partial one I apparently did on the engine coolant be ok. I saw the local dealership is having a sale on SLLC.

I would drain and fill the engine loop after you determine if the ECM, 3-way coolant control valve, or BOTH, need to be replaced. If the 3-way coolant control valve needs replacing, makes sense to do a proper drain and fill. Now both inverter and engine loop will be on the same schedule.

Last time I bought Toytoa SLLC, it was $16.95 at a local dealership (Apr 2018).

Did you buy a Toyota OEM 3-way valve or was this an aftermarket (Dorman, etc)? I do not recall any posts where the ECM for the 3-way coolant control valve needed to be replaced. I do recall aftermarket valves not lasting long at all. If you installed an aftermarket valve, I would put money that the aftermarket valve is the source of the error; replace w/ an OEM 3-way valve.

So I was able to test the CCV, the resistance was right where it should be. It was aftermarket but seems to be working correctly. I was able to do step 3 in the troubleshooting but got 8.3 mohms, that could either be the issue or the reading isn’t working correctly. For step 1, I can’t find my back probes so I have to rig something up today to test the voltage on the ECM.

I noticed after I plugged the connectors back into the ECM I was getting trouble code U0100. Do you know if it just takes clearing the codes or does the ECM require programming after it’s been unplugged. I didn’t want to mess anything up further.

Also another thing I was thinking about. Generally when I see posts related to the CCV there’s a check engine light on. Should I be concerned that I only got 3 other lights and not the check engine? Or does that happen from time to time?

You are using a «good» DVM? It doesn’t have to be an electricians level DVM (costing $100s), but definetley not Harbor Freight (esp the free one). A $30-$60 one, good brand name, on sale should be adequate for most DIY repairs.

Don’t forget to account for the resistance your «rig» will likely introduce, possibly giving a higher reading.

DTC U0100 = lost communication w/ ECM/PCM «A»
Interesting. This code NEVER appeared until now? But the code makes sense. Before removal they were talking. Unplug, it lost communication (U0100). Would makes sense that you are seeing the code now, after plugging in, to let you know, hey, there might be a problem; but you know the cause of this «problem,» as you triggered it by disconnecting to trouble shoot. I would clear all codes and proceed.I highly doubt the ECM would require reprogramming. Why? Could you imagine how pissed owners would be to have the car reprogrammed every time the 12V died? Disconnecting the cables (as you have done) would be the equivalent of a dead or removed 12V battery; real world. Having to redo the clock and radio presets is a near universal inconvenience/pain.A bad 3-way coolant control valve only triggers a CEL. The CEL can be intermittent as many people experience; the valve might be able to get into the correct position, deactivating the CEL. A dead/stuck valve would cause the CEL to stay on, until it is replaced or able to move into the correct position. Oh, I have learned here that the CEL is Emissions Related. The other warning lights will be for other systems.

The Master Warning light, VSC, !
will have codes, unless you cleared codes. If the problem still exists that caused those warning lights to trigger initially, the warning lights will appear again. Thus the importance of having proper tools (Techstream). Universal/generic OBD2 readers can NOT read all Toyota codes. If those warning lights get triggered again, you will have to have the codes read at the dealer or a shop that specializes in Prius and will likely be using Techstream or another professional commercial code reader that can read all Prius codes.

Do yourself a favor and get Techstream since you DIY. Should you stop driving a Toyota/Lexus, you can sell your Techstream setup.

Yea I do hvac work for a living so I have all the equipment. All my extra leads are at the shop though so I’m working with what I have at the house.

I figured that was the issue with the ECM codes, just wanted to double check before I cleared them off.

When I bought the car it all started with codes p1121, c1259, c1310, and all the lights on. I traced it back to a bad 12v battery that was about 8 years old and replaced it. The previous owner informed me of the CCV being bad so I knew that one would still exist.

I’m going to figure out a way to test the connector then I’ll have those figures.

I just did an advanced scan from the reader I have and also pulled code P3009. A new hybrid battery was installed 3 years ago and looking at the paperwork the shop had performed work for this code 2 years ago, so I guess I’ll need to give them a call on that.

P3009 is a HV leak. Hopefully it is limited to the HV Battery, and not the transaxle.
Should you ever get Techstream, P3009 has subcodes that further pinpoint the likely problem areas.

New = assembled from 100% virgin components/materials.
Was that battery a NEW OEM HV Battery from Toyota? Or is it «new,» as in a euphemism for used/rebuit/reconditioned/remanufactured/etc?
If it is a euphemism for «new,» don’t count on the HV Battery being trouble free or lasting a long time. Start planning a repair/replacement strategy.