Ошибка c1a6e nissan leaf

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Тема: Leaf Не заводится

• aero30
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Re: Leaf Не заводится

Сделай обучение тормозов.
http://mynissanleaf.ru/viewtopic.php?id=335
Вот похожая тема:http://autoprogs.ru/diagnostika-nissan-infinity-remont-elektroniki-167/nissan-leaf-2012-ne-vklyuchayutsya-peredachi-18327/

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

есть проблема -подскажите на табло торпеды  пишет — не могу стартовать  вытащите зарядн пистолет*   на самом деле пистолет вытянут  — если вставить пистолет то тоже не зарячжается .

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

ошибка    B29A0  2908 CHARGER N/CHG Port Tngage Err VC-95

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

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Re: Leaf Не заводится

Made some test with getting power out of the hv-bus on a 2012 Nissan Leaf. The idea is to be able to us it for specific v2g purposes where its possible to feed 400v straight in to some 230v appliances which ie many smps can handle, but the tests got a bit wrong and we managed
to connect a 2kw heat fan at the inverter branch of the hv-bus while the precharge wasn’t finished. Had some input that it should be possible to get power out of the hv-bus ie from this site even if it’s putting power in and at a different end of the hv-bus and from a few people in to the industry. And hade some things running successfully before this happened.

Reading the dtc’s with LeafSpy Pro shows following error codes
3 codes are not possible to reset

C118C 0109 ABS EV/HEV System BRC-126 occurs only in brc.pdf
C1A6E 0109 BRAKE EV/HEV System BR-146 occurs only in br.pdf
C1A70 0109 BRAKE Brake Control System BR-160 occurs only in br.pdf

2 codes are resettable but gets back on ‘ignition cycle’

P3176 00C0 EV/HEV Inverter Condenser EVC-238 occurs only in evc.pdf
(All following systems are disabled due to: P3176
FAIL-SAFE PATTERN
Pattern A: Quick charge prohibited
Pattern B: Normal charge prohibited
Pattern C: READY OFF
Pattern D: High-voltage power supply stop

If DTC P3176 is displayed with DTC ..P311C.. perform diagnosis for DTC ..P311C..)

P311C EV/HEV High Voltage Sys EVC-204 occurs only in evc.pdf

Haven’t find any info about this specific problems but two forum threads with similar symptoms;

mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=21508
where the precharge is blown and short out and as I understand a fuse in the dc/dc junctionbox is also blown.

elbilforum.no/forum/index.php?topic=18109
which got the same brake/abs errors but not the ev/hev and ends up changing a relay/contactor in the battery box and «sofware upgrade» a the nissan workshop.

Hope to get some helpful input even when the fault comes out of stupidity.

Bummer

It certainly sounds like you’ve damaged the pre-charge circuit. As I understand the VCM commands precharge, then waits for the inverter to report that the voltage across the HV caps/condensers has reached a certain voltage level before it closes the main contactors. The P311C and P3176 DTCs indicate that doesn’t seem to be happening so the HV is never connected to the DCJB. That will prevent either ready mode or charging. You’ll probably have to drop the battery and examine the junction box.

I suppose there is a slight possibility that its a 12V power issue resulting in the relays/contactors not operating correctly, but that seems unlikely to me. In the thread you referenced, I’m not sure there was actually anything wrong with the DCJB fuses. It seems the HV short at the compressor stressed the pre-charge resistors during start-up or charge initiation. Still, before dropping the battery it might be good to try and trace out the 12V power and check the fuses/relays.

The brake system errors are a little odd, although they both seem to be VCM related errors so may just be a result of the overall failure condition. I believe you can disconnect both the IBU and ABS units if you want to verify that these aren’t somehow causing the problem though. I’ve been able to reliably get into both ready and charge modes with both unplugged.

Good luck!

Rob

Really helpful input, thanks! And I really appreciate your videos.

The 12v battery have had some charging since the bricking so it’s probably fine, and I’ve checked all visible fuses for termination and all seems to be working.

I guess it’s more common for resistors to fail to open circuit than fail to short as in the post I referred to but if mine failed to oc I guess your explanation is possible. I have a 27ohm pre-charge resistor from a ford focus laying around, if I am lucky I might be able to use that, still haven’t been able to find any pictures or drawings of the pre-charge components.

Do you think it can be to any help to do a check similar to this https://youtu.be/d0IozEyeGSk before getting any deeper or is there another way to determine the condition of the resistor from the outside?

At site 29-30 in the evc; https://ownersmanuals2.com/get/nissan-l … -evc-43055
there is a nice schematic overview and the following pages declare all plug pinouts.
Doesn’t seems to be much more in the way that can have been destroyed physically by my tests.

Good idea to disconnect abs and heater, will try it tomorrow.

This page has a good picture toward the bottom of the precharge relay and resistor, looks very similar to my 2012. Looks to be 30 Ohm / 40W in this case.
https://www.summet.com/blog/2015/04/17/ … e-modules/

A couple of things you could try:
— Tap the control signal for the pre-charge relay somewhere between the VCM and the battery connector to make sure its being activated at least momentarily during a startup. I think that’s basically what the video is doing. That should answer the 12V power question, so you’d know for sure that the pre-charge relay is getting voltage to the coil.
— Measure the HV voltage outside the battery somewhere, to see if there is any voltage being supplied through the precharge resistor. If the voltage stays basically 0V even though the pre-charge relay is being operated that would certainly point to an open resistor. This is a bit tricky though. Your best bet might be to disconnect either the PTC Heater or the AC compressor HV connector, but then you will have to defeat the interlock. I don’t believe either of these are switched anywhere in the DCJB, they should be supplied HV anytime the battery is connected. The other option would be to pop the cover off the DCJB itself, but not sure how feasible this is while its still in the car. Also note that you can’t measure the HV+ to chassis ground, it has to be to HV-.

Rob

digilog wrote:Good idea to disconnect abs and heater, will try it tomorrow.

Just to double check, the IBU is the brake master cylinder «intelligent braking unit» not the heater. The ABS and IBU should be responsible for all your Cxxxx errors. Both are mounted in the engine room on the firewall, one on the drivers side, one on the passenger side.

Nice! Have seen jay summers videos but not the blog, lots of explaining pics, the resistor is very similar but probably not slot in and seems to have some sensing wires on the leaf that ford doesn’t.

You can see in the schematics linked in my last post, the hv-bus only have relays in battery box and for regular charge and QC. But I believe the easiest way to measure the hv-bus is the terminals at the inverter, was where I connected to get power out so that should not be a problem.
Good ideas!

Ok, now the car is running again, and all errors are reseted. Got a contactorbox including pre-charge for free from this guy.

for some reason the box i got was missing one 2pin connector, connected to hv. But both cars seems to be from 2012. So only th resistor got switched over.

the faulty resistor (30ohm 40w), didnt look damaged but I wasn’t able to measure any connection at all.

a bit of work to get the batterybox out without a proper lift.

To prevent a repeat, you might be able to use the spare contactors you now have to keep your inverter disconnected until the SMRs both close? Looking at the circuit diagram in EVB, it looks like pin #17 at the battery is the 12V coil supply to SMR1 that you’d want to tap? If I’m remembering correctly, SMR2 and PRE close during precharge, then SMR1 closes once charged and PRE opens.

Pin 107 off the VCM should be the same signal.

Rob