Ошибка 20136 ауди

Всем привет!
После замены масла и фильтров проехал 7,5к км, пришло время повторить естественную процедуру. Поменяли и задно чекнули на ошибки.
Залил то же Motul что и в прошлый раз. Фото не делал, потому прилагаю с прошлого поста о замене.

Покупал 7 литров, залили примерно 6,7л, остаток долил в процессе, что бы канистра не валялась.
Показывало максимум. Проехал 7,5к км.
Стало так⬇️

Не знаю много съела или нет, но вроде бы у всех кушает на этих движках. Интересно мнение сообщества.

Почитали на ошибки.
Вылезла такая⬇️

Клапан системы вентиляции картера.
Симптомов просто ноль. Если бы не читали, то фиг поймешь что есть нетсправность.
Благо на Драйве уже был пост на эту тему, автору большое спасибо.
Проверили клапан — не работает, под замену.
Оригинальный номер — 06E103207AR.
Идет вместе с трубками.

Еще нужно 6 прокладок.

Дальше работа мастера и собственно все😀
Делал в том же месте.
Роману спасибо и респект🙏

Дальше сюрприз🤦‍♂️
Перед ремонтом попросил Рому проверить ролики и ремень, на предмет ни пора ли менять. Через 10 мин звонок. При первом же касании к ролику он просто остался в руках🤷🏻‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Я и офигел!
Это хорошо что на сто, а если бы на скорости.
Не знаю как его могло так сломать, но держался он на волосинке, на фото видно.
Есть предположение что при дтп в Америке, но там даже до радиаторов не достало.

Короче это поломка которой сильно рад😀
В общем 2 ролика под замену.
Ребята с СТО нашли и купили. Через 3 часа ролики привезли и поставили.
За оперативность отдельное спасибо!

Все сделали. Малышка в строю и это хорошо😀

Всем добра!
Берегите себя!

Месяца 3-4 назад при проведении очередных работ по обслуживанию Эски (мыл радиаторы) обнаружилась ошибка клапана системы вентиляции картера:

Причем ошибка была спорадическая, проявлялась на холостых оборотах и не каждый день. Т.к. авто на тот момент был на гарантии — в первую очередь обратился к дилеру, где получил отказ по причине не постоянности неисправности. Предложили для начала провести диагностику за мой счет ))
Далее — поиск в интернете. На русскоязычных ресурсов по данной ошибке для моего мотора информации «0», есть только общее описание неисправности, кое-что нашел на англоязычных форумах, но, там народ либо забивал на эту ошибку, либо чинил у дилера за много зеленых денег.
Посещение двух Ваг сервисов также не дало вменяемых результатов: предположения строились туманные, в сторону маслоотделителя (но если жрет масло, а если не жрет то вроде и нет) и основным посылом было — забить пока не вылезет постоянная ошибка или не будет жрать масло.
Но забивать на неисправность не наш путь ))
Как говорят знающие люди, найти хорошего диагноста половина решения проблемы. Такой диагност мной был найден на ауди-клубе. Влад Melkon без всяких туманных предположений быстро определил причину неисправности:

Этот клапан судя по всему отвечает за подачу чистого воздуха от входа (после воздушного фильтра) в картер. Идет в сборе, называется в elcats — «труба». Причём этот не тот клапан ВКГ, что находится в наших моторах в маслоотделителе и отвечает за подачу очищенных КГ во впуск (в нашем случае в компрессор).

Как я понял из чтения vwts на большинстве 3.0 tfsi данного управляемого клапана нет — вместо него стоит труба с обратным клапаном, как и показано на схеме из elcats выше. Зачем на моем моторе этот клапан управляемый (к нему подходит проводка) и каков алгоритм его работы, я не нашёл.

Сам клапан расположен на задней стенке компрессора, в свободном доступе, что позволяет проверить его продувкой. В моем случае он не перекрывался.

Однако трубка, идущая от него к маслоотделителю является несъёмной, и для замены клапана необходим съем компрессора.
Доверять лезть в мотор нашим горе-сервисам мне совсем не хотелось и я уже смирился с тем, что придется платить за работу официалам, а это по их расчетам 4 нормо-часа, что на мой авто со скидкой составляет более 8 рублей, плюс переплата за запчасти купленные у дилера (сама трубка с клапаном и 6 прокладок).
К счастью через знакомого нашел мастера (slavaserviss), выполнившего данную работу в 2 раза дешевле и 2 раза быстрей.
Итак, помимо самого клапана в сборе 06E103207AP, необходимы 6 прокладок 079129717D, стоят они конских денег (500 р шт), я взял аналог от Reinz 71-40513-00 (160 р шт).
Работа заняла менее 2х часов. Дополнительно был почищен нагар на клапанах, к слову за 68 тысяч его образовалось не много.

После замены была произведена проверка режимов работы двигателя через сервисное ПО.
По изменениям в работе пока говорить рано, нужно поездить, главное это уверенность в исправности авто.
Теперь можно спокойно отжарить последние теплые дни в ожидании:

P.S.: Если интересуетесь фитнесом и здоровым образом жизни, приглашаю вас на информационный портал FitFusion.team, ребята подготовили для вас много интересной и полезной информации.

Коды ошибок по маркам автомобилей

Из чего состоит ошибка

В пятизначных кодах первый знак обозначает принадлежность к системе, в которой обнаружена неисправность:

• Р — неполадки, зафиксированные в работе силового агрегата либо автоматической трансмиссии (АКПП);
• В — неисправности, связанные с функционированием кузовных систем — электрических стеклоподъемников, подушек безопасности Airbag (SRS), центрального замка и т. д.;
• С — коды ошибок в работе шасси или ходовой составляющей транспортного средства;
• U — неисправности, связанные с электрикой или электронным оборудованием, взаимодействием между управляющими модулями, цифровым интерфейсом.

Второй знак обозначает:

• 0 — общая цифра для всех OBD2 кодов;
• 1 или 2 — код производителя транспортного средства;
• 3 — резервая позиция.

Третий знак в комбинации неисправности указывает на тип поломки:

• 1 и 2 — сбои в функционировании систем подачи воздуха либо топлива;
• 3 — неисправности в работе системы зажигания;
• 4 — неполадки, связанные с функционированием систем вспомогательного контроля;
• 5 — сбои в работу элементов системы холостого хода;
• 6 — неполадки, зафиксированные в функционировании электронного блока управления автомобилем или его электролиниями;
• 7 и 8 — неисправности трансмиссионного агрегата.

Последние два знака обозначают порядковый номер неисправности.

Copyright © 2021. Коды ошибок OBD-II с расшифровкой на русском языке — возможные причины, описание и варианты по устранению ошибок.

1. 08-16-2021 06:56 PM

   
   

   #1

   

   
   Junior Member
   

   Two Rings

   

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   Error Code 20136 — PCV Valve Malfunction (no CEL only shows on VCDS)
   

   Hi it’s been a while since I had an Audi issue

   It’s a 2016 S4 with 78k miles. Well maintained since I bought it new.

   I was learning the basic read-only functions of my VCDS and this was the only error code I found during an autoscan. I cleared it and it seemed to come right back. The engine hiccuped when clearing the code while running….drove it normally intensity for about 6 miles and no code. Gave it a nice sport mode punch on the highway with and a it came back by the time I was home a few miles later.

   I know the PCV valve in our cars is located under the Supercharger and it’s a high labor item to replace. I know they can start eating oil and coolant, and if really gone back the two can start mixing.

   Has anyone had an experience with this? I am not seeing any check engine light and wouldn’t have even known were it not for the VCDS. No unusual oil consumption or coolant consumption issues. The oil cap seems to have plenty of vacuum suction when taken off while the engine is running. Car is running quite well, tiny bit of of super mild idle jittering but I’m sure one day it’ll need the infamous valve cleaning done.

   20136 — PCV Valve Malfunction
   P052E 00 [039] — —
   Not Confirmed — Tested Since Memory Clear
   Freeze Frame:
   Fault Status: 00000001
   Fault Priority: 2
   Fault Frequency: 1
   Mileage: 125514 km
   Date: 2021.08.14
   Time: 20:51:10

   Engine RPM: 706.00 /min
   Normed load value: 12.9 %
   Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
   Coolant temperature: 95 �C
   Intake air temperature: 63 �C
   Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar
   Voltage terminal 30: 13.710 V
   Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
   Engine speed: actual: 704 /min
   MAF_ENVD: 130.72941 mg/stroke
   Coolant temperature (unfiltered): 95.25 �C
   Engine: operating status: IS
   Engine load: 12.890625 %
   Vehicle speed: actual: 0 km/h

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2. 08-17-2021 03:49 AM

   
   

   #2

   

   
   Veteran Member
   

   Four Rings

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   Probably means the PCV is on its way out, code is related to PCV regulator performance. The hiccup during clearing the codes with the engine running is normal.

   Sent from my SM-G988U using Audizine Forum mobile app

   Custom DP 194/57 E40 Water-Meth (Aquamist) | BG HPT ZF8 Tune | APR CPS with AWE Reservoir (Divorced Coolant Loop) | APR Open Intake and 034 Intake Tube | RSE Heat Shielded HFCs | CTS Downpipes with Vibrant UQ Resonators Added | AWE Touring Exhaust | 034 RSB | Bilstein B8 Shocks and H&R -3 Springs | ECS Trans and Drivetrain Inserts | 034 Trans and Motor Mounts | Moog Front End Links | Headlight Projector Retrofit and Painted Housings

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3. 08-17-2021 05:52 AM

   
   

   #3

   

   
   Veteran Member
   

   Four Rings

   

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   I just performed a DYI on the PCV valve last week at 75,000 miles. Replaced the thermostat and water pump at the same time, even though not yet faulty, since they tend to start leaking or acting up at about the same time interval and replacement is easy once you have the supercharger off and everything exposed to access the PCV.

   I did wait a while, probably 6 months between the soft code you report and doing the replacement. Your code is «not confirmed» and you have no CEL. I cleared the code, but it kept coming back, still «not confirmed.» Eventually a scan reported it as «confirmed.» I never got a CEL, but the oil cap became almost impossible to remove with the engine warmed up and idling. Some vacuum at the cap is ok. But this thing was sucking vacuum so hard that I could almost not remove it. That and the «confirmed» fault code meant true failure and time to act.

   Once that happens there is risk to developing crankcase seal failure and oil leaks, particularly the rear main seal. So, maybe watch this closely. When the scan persists and reports «confirmed» or when the oil cap gets very difficult to remove with the engine idling, get it replaced.

   FYI, I was startled at how good my intake valves looked at 75,000 miles. I was expecting to see a black crusted, gummy carbon mess. They looked good, only minimal carbon. So, I skipped valve cleaning. Also, no evidence of intercooler core leaks. I guess I’ve been lucky.

   Last edited by MSq5; 08-17-2021 at 06:09 AM.

   2017 Q5 3.0T S-Line | Brilliant Black | EPL Stage 2 dual pulley 93 octane tune | JHM 187mm crank pulley w/ EPL 57.6mm s/c pulley — 3.247 total ratio | Red Star shielded test pipes | Flowmaster 200 cell high flow metal core cats | Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resos in place of OEM baby resos | aFe Pro 5R (part#10-10121) filter in «modified» stock air box | 034 silicone throttle body hose | HP Tuners custom TCU tuned ZF8 | Merc Racing HX | Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ 255/45/20.

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4. 08-17-2021 06:34 AM

   
   

   #4

   

   
   Junior Member
   

   Two Rings

   

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   Originally Posted by MSq5
   

   I just performed a DYI on the PCV valve last week at 75,000 miles. Replaced the thermostat and water pump at the same time, even though not yet faulty, since they tend to start leaking or acting up at about the same time interval and replacement is easy once you have the supercharger off and everything exposed to access the PCV.

   I did wait a while, probably 6 months between the soft code you report and doing the replacement. Your code is «not confirmed» and you have no CEL. I cleared the code, but it kept coming back, still «not confirmed.» Eventually a scan reported it as «confirmed.» I never got a CEL, but the oil cap became almost impossible to remove with the engine warmed up and idling. Some vacuum at the cap is ok. But this thing was sucking vacuum so hard that I could almost not remove it. That and the «confirmed» fault code meant true failure and time to act.

   Once that happens there is risk to developing crankcase seal failure and oil leaks, particularly the rear main seal. So, maybe watch this closely. When the scan persists and reports «confirmed» or when the oil cap gets very difficult to remove with the engine idling, get it replaced.

   FYI, I was startled at how good my intake valves looked at 75,000 miles. I was expecting to see a black crusted, gummy carbon mess. They looked good, only minimal carbon. So, I skipped valve cleaning. Also, no evidence of intercooler core leaks. I guess I’ve been lucky.

   I see! Thanks for the information. So I did check my crankcase pressure and when you remove the cap at idle there is some suction…a good amount but not ridiculous levels. After you remove the cap it’s not like it’s gulping in air. But that was my next question, would a bad PCV on these cars cause more or less vacuum? In a traditional car you do want a degree of suction on that side so it removes the blowby gasses and burns them before the engine gets gummy and pressure builds. So I’d think here too you want some pressure but not insane levels. On other cars usually you are lacking suction when your PCV valve clogs, or sticks.

   But you’re basically saying it starts sucking too hard and this ruptures the seals etc. I guess that makes sense, but with negative pressure would it not rupture inwards and start ingesting oil rather than pressure building blowing external seals?

   Mine is at 78k and it’s been pretty good to me. Now a LOT of that is highway miles, drove cross country last summer 8k but I’ve had Hondas that have had more issues 5 years and 80k miles out. These are generally pretty good cars if you take care of them and don’t abuse them too much. Unless you’re grannying it or driving cross country like I was the 10k interval is kind of a joke. I do it about every 5-7k on my own.

   Still have 20k of extended warranty and wondering if and when I can get this justified as a replacement. Wonder if I told the dealer or a German repair shop about it, they’d probably run a scan and be very eager to get my warranty to cover it. Or maybe needs to wait until «confirmed» meaning it’s not intermittant?

   Water pump, thermostat and maybe those plastic coolant pipes while in there you are saying? Not a bad idea if it’s not adding another 1500 labor.

   What is an intercooler core leak? Where is that one located? Under the super or in front of the radiator?

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5. 08-17-2021 07:44 AM

   
   

   #5

   

   
   Veteran Member
   

   Four Rings

   

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   It might be a good idea to have your dealer check if under extended warranty. They might do the fix now. My guess, just a guess, is that warranty might not cover it until you get a «confirmed» or a CEL. If you have VCDS you can also run a PCV function test. That might help determine whether they would cover it. Mine failed that function test. Its normal for slight to moderate suction. I don’t know how to quantify that. But, a failed valve will have greatly increased suction, so much you almost can’t get the cap off with the engine running.

   This was an 8-10 hour labor project for me. A good dealer tech might do it in 5 or 6. I’ve been twisting wrenches for a long time, always service my own vehicles, have a pretty complete shop, but I do not do this every day like they do, so I went slow. Regardless, it is pretty labor intensive. Lots of vacuum lines, hose clamps, electrical sensor connections, fuel lines, and physical removal of the supercharger. That «crossover» plastic pipe that runs front to back over the PCV valve also has to come out. Some people manage to break it trying to remove it. There is a small short pipe that goes between the bottom of the supercharger and the PCV that will get replaced as well as an o-ring on the front of the crossover pipe and several other gaskets for the top and bottom of the manifolds. Your dealer or indy shop will know what is needed. Kits for DYI will include those items with the PCV valve.

   The thermostat replacement might take 15-30 minutes more once the supercharger is off. The water pump replacement might take a bit more, as you have to remove the other belt that drives the accessories, including the water pump, and remove the pulley from the pump. Still, pretty easy once you are there.

   As to the intercooler cores, I probably shouldn’t have added that to your list of concerns, but since we are on the subject, I’ll explain. Your supercharger generates a lot of heat as it compresses air to create boost. To reduce that heat there are water cooling lines running to each side or «saddle» of the supercharger. There are small radiator «bricks» inside that use the coolant to pull heat away from the supercharger. Over time, especially if the engine is tuned for higher boost, they can leak coolant into the intake manifolds of the engine. It can happen on a completely stock engine, but more likely if higher boost. These bricks are different and separate from the heat exchanger located out in front of your radiator.

   If they leak, its usually from the back cylinder on each bank, #3 and #6. Symptoms include misfires on those spark plugs, a whitish coolant stain on the plug electrode or ground strap, and loss of coolant. Because one of the signs of PCV failure is also coolant loss, its good to exclude alternative causes. For that reason, I was curious about the condition of those cores or bricks. I inspected and cleaned them while I had the supercharger off. There are separate threads here on how to do that. I also looked for any whitish residue on the back of those intake valves. There was none. This is really beyond the scope of this thread unless you are getting misfires and/or coolant stains on your plugs. Didn’t mean to have you chasing rabbits.

   Last edited by MSq5; 08-17-2021 at 08:21 AM.

   2017 Q5 3.0T S-Line | Brilliant Black | EPL Stage 2 dual pulley 93 octane tune | JHM 187mm crank pulley w/ EPL 57.6mm s/c pulley — 3.247 total ratio | Red Star shielded test pipes | Flowmaster 200 cell high flow metal core cats | Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resos in place of OEM baby resos | aFe Pro 5R (part#10-10121) filter in «modified» stock air box | 034 silicone throttle body hose | HP Tuners custom TCU tuned ZF8 | Merc Racing HX | Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ 255/45/20.

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6. 08-17-2021 08:50 AM

   
   

   #6

   

   
   Junior Member
   

   Two Rings

   

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   OK all makes sense now thanks for elaborating. I know what you are talking about I was a mechanic for 4 years early in my days (didn’t work on German cars of course) but recently I built a 68′ Mustang mostly myself that was all taken apart and replaced the engine/trans. But I also saw this Audi video some enthusiast did detailing how his supercharger was leaking coolant into his #3 cylinder and of course those intercoolers you were talking about were leaking when he pressure tested it. His coolant and oil became a mixed slurry but he was able to fix it all, flush them and restart the car without any major issue. That cars was definitely modded out and tuned. This is one of the reasons why I’d rather avoid an APR tune as it will shorten the engines life, and I can already hit ridiculous speeds with his car stock. I’ll rarely need or want that 400+ horsepower with extra boost.

   I could do the jobs you mentioned myself. But it would be a lot of time and work I prefer not to work on this car yet as I have the project hobby car and don’t want my DD to be out of action for an extended period. Plus…voiding that warranty would be a concern. I just do fluids, simple fixes and maintenance. I was doing dealer Audicare but now that my fav service advisor who got me all kinds or good things is gone I’m done with them and will go to German specialty shops for something like this.

   I would be very interested to do the function test on the PCV. No cap vacuum is not excessive in my opinion. I can get it off with one hand without pulling too hard. There is no coolant loss. No oil loss aside from regular loss and I do have a dipstick. I’ve notice the car since new will lose a really tiny bit of coolant over years but it’s minor and since it’s last flush 50k miles ago I have not seen any loss other than maybe from slight venting and topped it off once….wasn’t even necessary really. It was still very close to the ‘max’ line when hot.

   Wonder where I can find this procedure for the buttons to hit on VCDS? I’m still learning that tool, and trying to stay away from invasive stuff that might screw the car up because I don’t know what I’m doing yet. So I just do the safe diagnostic things.

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7. 08-17-2021 11:11 AM

   
   

   #7

   

   
   Veteran Member
   

   Four Rings

   

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   The PCV function test is one of the tests in tbe «Output Test» menu.

   Here is a link:

   https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/out_test.php

   While the linked example is for manifold flap function, it is just ine example of many options available.

   Scroll up or down to find the PCV function test. Unlike some output tests, this one is done with engine running and transmission in neutral, or park for automatic trans. A screen will appear telling you to depress the brake and accelerator pedals together and hold them. It takes over. Continue holding them until the test is concluded and a result screen appears. It will take several minutes. The screen will list several parameters and whether the particular tested parameter passed or failed.

   2017 Q5 3.0T S-Line | Brilliant Black | EPL Stage 2 dual pulley 93 octane tune | JHM 187mm crank pulley w/ EPL 57.6mm s/c pulley — 3.247 total ratio | Red Star shielded test pipes | Flowmaster 200 cell high flow metal core cats | Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resos in place of OEM baby resos | aFe Pro 5R (part#10-10121) filter in «modified» stock air box | 034 silicone throttle body hose | HP Tuners custom TCU tuned ZF8 | Merc Racing HX | Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ 255/45/20.

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8. 08-17-2021 04:57 PM

   
   

   #8

   

   
   Senior Member
   

   Two Rings

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   I just ran my first OBD11 scan and this popped for me as well however it doesn�t seem like OBD has the �not confirmed� or �confirmed� status? I also have some decent vacuum on my oil cap. I just had my first WP replacement (the cars 4th!) a couple of months ago. Could the PCV that bad that it may make it seem to the dealer that it�s a WP issue instead of the PCV? My audi extended warranty expires in 70 miles.

   2016 S4 P+ Ibis White | DSG | Nappa leather interior | Technology Package | Sports Diff | Black Optics | CR-15

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9. 08-17-2021 06:21 PM

   
   

   #9

   

   
   Junior Member
   

   Two Rings

   

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   No there is no way they will confuse this. Yes these cars need new water pumps every 40-60k miles. I had one done very early on at 41k. I got a screaming display telling me to pull over and a dash version of the error code and CEL. The temp did spike but then went right down. After letting the car sit for an hour I got sick of waiting for the Audi tow truck and started it up. Ran fine all the way home and thereafter. But I had it towed to the deal just incase. They did WP and Thermostat. I’m actually kinda hoping it’ll pop again before my 100k mile warranty ends BCS there could be many other things like this PCV I could get yanked while it’s apart.

   MSq5 I’ll give that test a run for certain! Thankyou! I have a feeling that this is a gray area where the code may not trigger a CEL or a screaming display telling you to stop the car, but can be slowly harming the engine internals all the while. So I’ll raise it to the next shop that does a scan. Tho…might go to the dealer for this cause ya know they are great making reasons to get work done, and they might just know how to work the warranty folks over

   The fact that I’m also only seeing the code when I give it a nice shot of boost and high rev in Sport mode doesn’t bode well. It could blow (mix fluids) or worse during some spirited driving, which I do every few weeks.

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10. 08-17-2021 08:09 PM

    
    

    #10

    

    
    Junior Member
    

    Two Rings

    

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    So I tried to tackle this tonight, because my idle is getting a bit rough the longer it sits and idles.

    No dice! Car was running and in park. I did find the position but all I can do in Output tests is measure values and check things off like ‘coolant temperature’ and those will work so I know this thing is working. Did Audi lock them out? I see there is a security button thing where you have to enter some kind of PIN to access something. In any case, for any of those tests it says ‘refused by controller’ and I cannot even select «Sequential Output Tests’ as it is grayed out. None of the controller modules in there functioned. Not one.

    Don’t tell me this is some extra feature I didn’t pay for with this software from RossTech.

    Dang this web board is so old and ghetto you can’t attach photos of screenshots. You must host them somewhere else and link it.

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12. 08-17-2021 08:12 PM

    
    

    #11

    

    
    Junior Member
    

    Two Rings

    

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    And when I say I found the position I did actually find the test «IDE07892 — Crankcase Ventilation Valve»

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13. 08-17-2021 08:15 PM

    
    

    #12

    

    
    Veteran Member
    

    Four Rings

    

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    Originally Posted by jthan.ami
    

    So I tried to tackle this tonight, because my idle is getting a bit rough the longer it sits and idles.

    No dice! Car was running and in park. I did find the position but all I can do in Output tests is measure values and check things off like ‘coolant temperature’ and those will work so I know this thing is working. Did Audi lock them out? I see there is a security button thing where you have to enter some kind of PIN to access something. In any case, for any of those tests it says ‘refused by controller’ and I cannot even select «Sequential Output Tests’ as it is grayed out. None of the controller modules in there functioned. Not one.

    Don’t tell me this is some extra feature I didn’t pay for with this software from RossTech.

    Dang this web board is so old and ghetto you can’t attach photos of screenshots. You must host them somewhere else and link it.

    I may have given you the wrong instructions. I’ll connect to mine tomorrow and run the test again, then report back. No, nothing else to pay for, but be sure you are running the most recent VCDS software. I’ll try to take a screenshot.

    2017 Q5 3.0T S-Line | Brilliant Black | EPL Stage 2 dual pulley 93 octane tune | JHM 187mm crank pulley w/ EPL 57.6mm s/c pulley — 3.247 total ratio | Red Star shielded test pipes | Flowmaster 200 cell high flow metal core cats | Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resos in place of OEM baby resos | aFe Pro 5R (part#10-10121) filter in «modified» stock air box | 034 silicone throttle body hose | HP Tuners custom TCU tuned ZF8 | Merc Racing HX | Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ 255/45/20.

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14. 08-17-2021 09:24 PM

    
    

    #13

    

    
    Junior Member
    

    Two Rings

    

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    I’d really appreciate it! I’ve Googled this to death and found some related stuff and some wild stuff some guys are doing but nothing on this specific test itself or how those 7F 2F 22 refused by control module get resolved.

    This PCV thing has got me scared….reading that it can cause rear main seals to blow out, oil to suck into valves and give the dreaded carbon buildup. But, at least I am not seeing any oil consumption yet. That is a big omen.

    This guy was nuts about this but very smart…one guy measured through the dipstick tube for excessive blow during boost. I guess as the S4 is getting older I’m going to start learning things.

    https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/11351/

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15. 08-18-2021 03:41 AM

    
    

    #14

    

    
    Veteran Member
    

    Four Rings

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    If you’re wondering about your crankcase pressures, you should just measure them. Same process as we regularly use on the 2.0T. Pull the oil dipstick tube plug and mount a vacuum gauge to it. For the 2.0T, early engines used a 20 mbar (0.6 inHg) pressure regulating valve in the PCV unit. For 2013 on, they switched to a 100 mbar (3.0 inHg) config. For those pre-2013 complaining of oil consumption, stage 1 was the replace the PCV with the newer 100 mbar unit. Stage 2 was complete rings/pistons replacement.

    It seems similar was occurring at the same time for the 3.0T. 2013 on use the updated PCV 06E 103 547 H. This establishes a crankcase vacuum of 150 mbar (4.4 inHg) at idle. Pre-2013 were retrofit with that if the customer had oil consumption (TSB 2030197) or had been through the fuel leak safety recall 24AP. Like the 2.0T, retrofits of the updated PCV on the 3.0T also required an ECM update. I didn’t see anything that denoted the original crankcase vacuum at idle on the 3.0T.

    When the pressure regulating valve diaphragm tears, it fails to regulate the intake manifold vacuum and far too much vacuum is passed to the crankcase. This is when you can do a number on your seals if it’s left unnoticed and uncorrected.

    But it’s all random speculation until you have actual data, such as an actual measurement of crankcase pressure at idle.

    2009 A4 Avant 2.0T quattro Prestige, 255k miles

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16. 08-18-2021 04:03 AM

    
    

    #15

    

    
    Veteran Member
    

    Four Rings

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    On the code and the test, the Audi DTC chart skips over P052E. There are other P052_ codes, all referencing cold start condition failures.

    The CCBA (B8.0) and CGXC (2013) used a simple breather hose with a one-way check valve (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-…e/06e103207am/).
    The CTUB (2014+) uses a different hose, with an electrical connector on the check valve (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-…e/06e103207ap/).

    It should be noted that RoW markets that moved to CRE for 2014, while NAR emissions markets moved to CTU, also use this hose with the electrical plug. Though the Audi wiring diagram and workshop manual for the CTUB omit this update. Apparently it’s the «N548 Crankcase ventilation shut-off valve». I assume then testing this solenoid is what output test IDE07892 is for? And failure of this control is what P052E is identifying? Or is the DTC proposed through some other metric, and the solenoid is not directly indicated by this DTC?

    I wonder if this is why the CGX engine code rolled to CTU. Wonder what electronic control of that breather hose path accomplishes.

    2009 A4 Avant 2.0T quattro Prestige, 255k miles

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17. 08-18-2021 04:22 AM

    
    

    #16

    

    
    Senior Member
    

    Two Rings

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    Originally Posted by jthan.ami
    

    No there is no way they will confuse this. Yes these cars need new water pumps every 40-60k miles. I had one done very early on at 41k. I got a screaming display telling me to pull over and a dash version of the error code and CEL. The temp did spike but then went right down. After letting the car sit for an hour I got sick of waiting for the Audi tow truck and started it up. Ran fine all the way home and thereafter. But I had it towed to the deal just incase. They did WP and Thermostat. I’m a ctually kinda hoping it’ll pop again before my 100k mile warranty ends BCS there could be many other things like this PCV I could get yanked while it’s apart.

    MSq5 I’ll give that test a run for certain! Thankyou! I have a feeling that this is a gray area where the code may not trigger a CEL or a screaming display telling you to stop the car, but can be slowly harming the engine internals all the while. So I’ll raise it to the next shop that does a scan. Tho…might go to the dealer for this cause ya know they are great making reasons to get work done, and they might just know how to work the warranty folks over

    The fact that I’m also only seeing the code when I give it a nice shot of boost and high rev in Sport mode doesn’t bode well. It could blow (mix fluids) or worse during some spirited driving, which I do every few weeks.

    I know it�s a weak point but forgot to mention that the car has 60k miles and already on its 4th Water Pump. The most recent change did not take off the SC so couldn�t get them to replace the T-stay but did get free labor to replace the SC belt ha.

    2016 S4 P+ Ibis White | DSG | Nappa leather interior | Technology Package | Sports Diff | Black Optics | CR-15

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18. 08-18-2021 08:16 AM

    
    

    #17

    

    
    Veteran Member
    

    Four Rings

    

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    Originally Posted by jthan.ami
    

    I’d really appreciate it! I’ve Googled this to death and found some related stuff and some wild stuff some guys are doing but nothing on this specific test itself or how those 7F 2F 22 refused by control module get resolved.

    This PCV thing has got me scared….reading that it can cause rear main seals to blow out, oil to suck into valves and give the dreaded carbon buildup. But, at least I am not seeing any oil consumption yet. That is a big omen.

    This guy was nuts about this but very smart…one guy measured through the dipstick tube for excessive blow during boost. I guess as the S4 is getting older I’m going to start learning things.

    https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/11351/

    If you are shaded out, it may be differences in our ECU models. I found another way to do the test.

    Go into Engine — Basic Settings and scroll down until you find the test for crankcase ventilation, select it and they hit «Go.» Try that, engine running, in park. It seemed to work, too.

    There is also an «automatic test» protocol in that same menu. That test runs an entire series of tests, which presumable includes the crankcase ventilation test. These will probably require you to press the brake pedal and hold down the gas pedal. The ECU will take over and subjects the engine to various stresses while taking and recording measurements.

    2017 Q5 3.0T S-Line | Brilliant Black | EPL Stage 2 dual pulley 93 octane tune | JHM 187mm crank pulley w/ EPL 57.6mm s/c pulley — 3.247 total ratio | Red Star shielded test pipes | Flowmaster 200 cell high flow metal core cats | Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resos in place of OEM baby resos | aFe Pro 5R (part#10-10121) filter in «modified» stock air box | 034 silicone throttle body hose | HP Tuners custom TCU tuned ZF8 | Merc Racing HX | Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ 255/45/20.

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19. 08-18-2021 04:23 PM

    
    

    #18

    

    
    Junior Member
    

    Two Rings

    

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    Thankyou sir so very much!!! That method works This method is a winner.

    Results were a bit inconsistent at first but if I’m taking an average it’s overall «System not OK». ‘Test of valve for crankcase ventilation’ was the exact name of it.

    First test it went straight to ‘not ok’. Then there were about 5-7 ‘system ok’. This was while the car was warm but not all the way at the usual hot S4 temperature. Which I’ve found through this tool on my car to be a 95C with A/C running and about 101-102 without A/C running sitting at idle.

    After those tests it finally gave the «Operate Brake Pedal and depress accelerator». At first I didn’t realize how far, almost to the floor you had to push the gas, so it didn’t register. Then after it did and ran the full test around 1500 rpm and thinking about it for a minute, the results were «system not ok». Tried a bunch more tests and those all reported the failing result too. It even generated a fresh Engine error code after that was cleared and reporting a ‘verified’ this time around.

    So, sounds like it’s bad! Or it’s on the fritz. I’m not seeing crazy amounts of suction though, and not ever had oil consumption or coolant consumption issues. Cap comes off fairly easy I’d say with one hand, but with a healthy amount of vacuum, which any PCV system should have to evacuate gases.

    I’ll start talking to mechanics who know these cars and VCDS, I’m taking it to a German shop soon for it’s 2nd transmission service. Maybe I can get them to justify it to the warranty and then do a bunch of «while you’re in there’s too».

    Again, appreciate your help MSq5 with VCDS very much! This could help me justify and score a warranty repair…and maybe save the seals and prevent heavy carbon buildup before this gets worse down the road.

    To Smac770 who said hook up a vacuum gauge….surrrre….if I can find a way to make my 68′ Mustangs vacuum gauge with the tiny 5/16 hose fit over that dipstick tube by rigging up some kind of air tight adaptor. But without knowing what it’s supposed to be for this model, it’s kind of a guesswork. I dont’ have a 2.0, this is an S4 and it’s 2016. Supposedly they fixed many of the 2008-13 issues such as oil issues and timing chains guides busting out early. But I thought, mostly the oil issues were for the 4 bangers and it was a piston ring issue.

    There was a crazy very technical guy on one of the VCDS forums who uses an extra oil cap, drills a hole in it and I guess screws in a nipple or something. But he also pointed out you need to measure how much pressure the thing is building during high boost to see if the PCV isn’t doing it’s job.

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20. 08-18-2021 06:07 PM

    
    

    #19

    

    
    Veteran Member
    

    Four Rings

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    I just used a plastic adapter that came with my vacuum pump that perfectly suits the situation. Large one in the middle — https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pro…ors-evacuators And I already mentioned the 2013+ 3.0T spec is 150 mbar.

    Yeah, seen the one about the modified oil cap. That would be better for a long term monitor, but I was only bothering to measure vacuum sitting idle and do a run up and down the street to make sure pressure was not excessive on WOT (was hitting ~1.5 psi under full load). Some duct tape around the tube and adapter was plenty fine for the purpose.

    There’s still nothing the ECM can do to diagnose or assess the 3.0T crankcase vent system that I can see, except control the N548 solenoid on the breather tube for the CTUx versions. Which seems to be what the DTC is pointing to. If that’s all IDE07892 does, attempt to operate the N548, then it would seem you already have identification and confirmation of the problem component.

    2009 A4 Avant 2.0T quattro Prestige, 255k miles

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21. 08-18-2021 06:43 PM

    
    

    #20

    

    
    Junior Member
    

    Two Rings

    

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    Thanks, I missed the detail about 3.O TFSI perhaps I’ll try those adaptors if my own macgyver’ing from 68′ Mustang extra hoses and parts fails But it’s probably just a good case to replace under warranty if possible.

    Now I’m running v21.3.0 of VCDS which along with the cable I paid 200 bucks for recently is…I believe the latest and greatest. The test I ran id’s as IDE07972.

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23. 08-18-2021 07:51 PM

    
    

    #21

    

    
    Veteran Member
    

    Four Rings

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    I don’t have a CTUB to first hand compare. I think you said you went to Basic Settings to find IDE07972 rather than Output Tests to find IDE07892 as a means to exercise the N582?

    There doesn’t seem to be a list of output tests for the CTUB out there. Here for example is a video I made of various output tests on the B8.0 CAEB 2.0T — https://youtu.be/N0D8gfyuHRg I would have expected the N582 «PCV valve» to be among the output tests on a CTUB. But it’s hard to speculate without a hard visual. Unfortunately, Audi’s documentation on these details are all «see guided fault finding». Yeah.

    I’ve also had a mismatch message from VCDS on a basic setting test. For the the VVT basic setting test on my engine , it was ending with system not ok. But if I go through the logged values, the «Result of test of camshaft adjustment intake bank 1» was Syst OK. I posted it to the ross-tech forums. Something buggy there.

    2009 A4 Avant 2.0T quattro Prestige, 255k miles

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24. 08-19-2021 02:07 PM

    
    

    #22

    

    
    Junior Member
    

    Two Rings

    

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    Yes we tried that other test and it was grayed out meaning the ECU doesn’t support it and the controller rejected it…or Audi locked it out because they don’t want DIYers playing around there.

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• Здравствуйте, Уважаемый!
  Подскажите пожалуйста, а данные ошибки стирали (их слишком много), они появляются вновь?

  Балаково, Kia Ceed

• Думаю что да, так как ездил на диагностику предпоследний раз чуть больше недели. Надеюсь что там диагност сбрасывал ошибки

  Москва, Audi A6 allroad quattro

• Доброе утро. Ну для начала необходимо использовать нормальный сканер. Указанные коды по всей видимости читались чем-то мультимарочным. Нужен VagCom. Плюс такое количество кодов не допустимо вообще, т.е. это не говорит о таком количестве неисправностей, а говорит о проблеме в разъеме какого-то блока или о неисправности самого блока, либо о потере связи. Более того, когда уже было вмешательство, перепайки и т.д., неисправность найти будет всё сложнее. Нужно будет во первых проверить всё по следам ремонта, а потом отработать каждый код ошибки. Возможно потребуется менять жгуты проводки, сам контроллер. Подвеска может спускать также по ряду причин. Неисправность датчиков высоты, повреждение проводки, плохой контакт в разъёмах и т.д. На мой взгляд наиболее правильно будет обратиться в сервис, специализирующийся по группе VAG. И если не официальный дилер, то хотя бы профильный сервис, где есть VAG-Com и соответствующий персонал.

  Mazda 3

• 01316 — Блок управления тормозов.
  00145 — Клапан регулировки демпфирования заднего правого колеса-N339.
  00473 — Блок управления электромеханического стояночного тормоза-J540.
  01517 — Блок управления распознавания прицепа-J345.
  01314 — Блок управления двигателя.
  02646 — Достоверность информации от регулятора дорожного просвета.
  01780 — Датчики дорожного просвета.
  02645 — Клапаны регулирования дорожного просвета.
  01583 — Выявлена утечка в системе.
  Это лишь часть ошибок, по подвеске вероятно есть утечка и проблема с клапанами и датчиками положения кузова. Нужно провести диагностику оригинальным сканером, стереть ошибки и после пробной поездки считать ошибки еще раз, далее по каждой ошибке проводить проверки которые рекомендует оригинальный сканер.

  Балаково, Kia Ceed

• VAS, VAG-COM, ODIS — все ваговские сканеры сами проанализируют и сгруппируют коды неисправностей и сформируют план проверки. Этим не нужно пренебрегать, ибо расшифровки кодов порой не совсем корректно переведены и можно потратить кучу времени на ненужные поиски сопутствующих проблем.

• Уже три больше двух месяцев с периодичностью раз в две недели оставляю машину в специализированном центре с ваговским сканером, и после произведенных работ проблема не уходит. Сейчас на СТО говорят что нужно менять цепи и параллельно прозванить косу. Ремон не из дешевых. Вы как специалисты что можете сказать об этом решении СТО поможет или деньги на ветер?

  Москва, Audi A6 allroad quattro

• А с чем боремся то? С неиспраностью пневмоподвески? Так цепи ни при чём. А по мотору нужно знать, какие коды актуальны. Не весь список, а те, у которых частота проявления высокая или те, которые первыми появляются, а также те, которые не запомненны, а актуальны на момент диагностики. Некоторые коды вытекают из других, являются следствием и не требуют отдельной проработки. Укажите актуальные коды и те, которые появляются первыми.