Кавасаки брутфорс ошибки

Kawasaki Brute Force 300 motorcycles have engines, which are made up of many different parts.
These parts must work together in order for the engine to function. A problem with one of the
parts can make the engine not run. There are many different parts that make up an engine.
The following kawasaki brute force 300 faults are the list of some of the parts of a motorcycle engine.

To fix the issue of fault codes, you’ll need to disconnect the battery cable. This will ensure that you don’t get shocked while handling the terminals. Next, you will want to clean them with a soft brush and water to get rid of the corrosion. Once Kawasaki Brute Force 300 is cleaned properly, you can put them back on the terminal and reattach the cable.

One LONG followed by two SHORT = 12.
Two LONG, one SHORT = 21.
Three LONG, two short = 32, etc.
There is an interval of 1.5 seconds between TENS and ONES.
There is a 3 second
interval between codes.

Common abbreviations and their meanings below:

ABS: Anti-Lock Braking System
ACR: Automatic Compression Release
AFR: Air Fuel Ratio
AIS: Active Intake Solenoid
ATS: Air Temperature Sensor
BAS: Bank Angle Sensor
BCM: Body Control Module
CAN: Controller Area Network
CCM: Cruise Control Module
CKP: Crank Position Sensor
DLC: Datalink Connector
DTC: Diagnostic Trouble Codes
ECM: Electronic Control Module
ECT: Engine Coolant Temperature
ECU: Electronic Control Unit
EFI: Electronic Fuel Injection
EFP: Electronic Fuel Pump
ET: Engine Temperature sensor
FI: Fuel Injectors
FPR: Fuel Pressure Regulator
H-DSSS: Harley-Davidson® Smart Security System
HCU: Hydraulic Control Unit, ABS
HFSM: Hands Free Security Module
HO2S: Heated Oxygen Sensor
IAC: Idle Air Control actuator
IAT: Intake Air Temperature sensor
ICM: Ignition Control Module
IMAP: MAP + IAT in one unit
ISS: Ion Sensing System
JSS: Jiffy Stand Sensor
LHCM: Left Hand Control Module
MAP: Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
MHR: Right Hand Control Module
RCM: Reverse Control Module
TCA: Throttle Control Actuator
TGS: Twist Grip Sensor
TMAP: Intake Air Temperature / Manifold Absolute Pressure equipment
TPS: Throttle Position Sensor
TSM / TSSM: (Turn Signal / Turn Signal Security Module)
VE: Volume Efficiency
VIN: Vehicle Identification Number
VSS: Vehicle Speed Sensor
WSS: Wheel Speed Sensor

These abbreviations, and the accompanying list of trouble codes, can be a
great start when your Kawasaki check engine light comes on. As mentioned
above, if you are not comfortable with electrical diagnostic work, a dealership or qualified
technician can offer assistance. Please keep in mind that even though you have the ability to
clear a DTC using the onboard diagnostic feature, you shouldn’t clear the code prior to your
service appointment. Let the technician view and clear the codes as they troubleshoot the issue.

Kawasaki and logo are registered trademarks of Kawasaki. We are fan of MOTORCYCLES ! We love them.

Motorcycle electrical systems are very complex to fix it, check with your motorcycle diagnosis tool for the fault code and start motorcycle troubleshooting process.Some bike problems require professional troubleshooting and repair. However, there are many issues that you can easily fix on your own.

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As Kawasaki’s biggest and most powerful quad, the Brute Force 750 has been a mainstay in the ATV industry since 2005.  While the model has evolved over the years, one thing has remained constant – this machine is as durable as they come.  But while owner feedback through the years has been overwhelmingly positive, a number of common Kawasaki Brute Force 750 problems have been identified as well.

The most common Kawasaki Brute Force 700 problems are as follows:

• Problems with Front and Rear Differentials
• Fuel Pump Issues
• Flooded Airbox
• Clogged Air Filter
• Valves Causing Compression Loss
• Carburetor Problems
• Transmission Problems
• Overheating

This guide will detail each of these problems, along with likely causes and proven fixes.

Problems With Front and Rear Differentials

A number of issues with the Brute Force 750 originate with the front and rear differentials.

Oil Seals and Oil Changes

Both differentials take a small amount of oil, and the stock oil seals on both are prone to leaking.  A lack of oil from a leaking front oil seal can cause the front differential to lock up. The only real fix for this is to continuously keep an eye on the oil seals and replace them as needed.

It’s also important to change the differential oil as recommended in the owner’s manual, with a best practice being to change the differential fluids after any wet rides.

Rear Differential Ring and Pinion

The rear differential ring and pinion locking nut is also prone to coming loose in older Brute Force 750 models.  In order to fix this, owners should apply a red loctite to the nut and ensure it is torqued to the proper specs.

Front Differential Lock Lever

The yellow front differential lock lever should only be pulled and engaged when the quad is stopped.  Pulling this lever when in motion is hard on the front differential and can lead to complete failure.

Fuel Pump Issues

Backfiring in the Brute Force 750, idling issues, or the engine failing to start are all indicators that your fuel pump may need to be replaced.  But the fuel pumps in this vehicle aren’t known for going bad on their own, this usually happens as a result of issues with the fuel filters or fuel pump relay.

Fuel Filters

If your fuel is not clean and has debris in it, it will start to clog the fuel filter.  A clogged fuel filter leads to a lack of fuel in the pump, which leads to a lack of lubrication and coolant to the pump’s drive motor, which eventually leads to a failure of that drive motor and the fuel pump.

There is an external filter and an internal filter.  The external filter resembles a tea bag.  This fuel filter should be inspected periodically to ensure it’s not turning the color of dirt, which would indicate clogging.  If so, it should be replaced.

The internal filter is essentially just a screen.  This screen becomes clogged very easily, which can restrict fuel flow and lead to backfiring or hard starting.  Owners should either poke holes in this screen to better enable fuel flow, or remove it altogether and install an inline fuel filter. If this internal filter is clogged, even a brand new fuel pump will not function.

Fuel Pump Relay

Before assuming your fuel pump needs replacing, inspect the relay for any corrosion or other deterioration.  If it appears in bad shape, that may be your issue and you can order a replacement online for cheap.

Fuel Pump

You can also test your fuel pump to determine if it is still in working order.  To test it, simply remove the hose and start up your machine to see if fuel will spray out.  If it does, your fuel pump should be in good shape.  If it does not, and you’ve ruled out the fuel filter and fuel pump relay as being the cause, you can be pretty sure it needs to be replaced.

Flooded Airbox

One of the most common issues experienced among owners of older Brute Force 750 models is the tendency for the airbox to flood with water and mud.  This happens even from shallow water crossings and splashing through puddles where the water stays below the floorboards.

The issue is that the air intake is located just below the handle bars, and the larger engine in the quad tends to suck in so much air that any water or mud that may be airborne in the front end area will wind up in the airbox and potentially flood it.

To overcome this issue, owners have turned to either installing a special air box cover that shields it from this airborne water and mud, or to installing a full snorkel kit to extend the air intake higher.  Both of these options seem to work in overcoming this issue.

Clogged Air Filter

The powerful Kawasaki Brute Force 750 engine loves it some airflow, so the air filters need to work overtime in ensuring this air doesn’t come through the engine intake system along with dust and debris.  As such, the air filters tend to clog rather quickly.  

To ensure they continue to function properly, owners should be cleaning the air filter after every extended ride.  Once cleaned, a best practice is to reinstall the air filter with some grease on the bottom to ensure a tight seal.

Valves Causing Compression Loss

Any hard starting, rough idling, or stalling experienced with your Brute Force 750 is likely attributed to the intake valves.  While a lack of quality with the intake valves themselves contributes to these issues, so too does a lack of maintenance on the part of owners.  

Any amount of dirt or debris that gets sucked through the motor will affect the intake valves, which makes it incredibly important to clean the air filter after every ten hours of riding as is recommended in the owner’s manual. 

If not, the intake valves will start to wear over time.  This wear will tighten them up to the point of compression loss, which can lead to the symptoms mentioned above.  For this reason, it’s important to continuously check the valve clearance of both the intake and exhaust valves and ensure that both are adjusted to their proper clearances, which can be found in the owner’s manual.  It is also a best practice to replace these valves every year or two.

If you suspect your intake valves to be causing an issue, you can run a compression test or a leak-down test on them to help determine this. 

Carburetor Problems

Kawasaki Brute Force 750 carburetor problems are another of the more commonly experienced issues with this machine.  Three tell-tale signs of a carburetor issue are as follows:

• Engine sputters or stalls at idle
• Engine refuses to start or run without choke
• Engine surges

These carburetor issues are unfortunately fairly common as carburetors have a tendency to gum up and clog over time for a variety of reasons.  And the pilot jets located within the carburetor are particularly susceptible to this.  

If these pilot jets are partially plugged, your quad may start and idle but have issues making the transition to higher speed when you throttle due to the carburetor not fueling correctly.

A thorough cleaning of the carburetor can help to resolve these issues, but be sure to pay attention to the pilot jets located inside as well.  In order to extensively clean the carburetor, you’ll need to first remove it from your quad and disassemble it.

Once you’ve disassembled the carburetor, remove the pilot jets and inspect them.  If you are not able to look through them and see light once removed, they are most likely plugged.  Use a fine wire to unplug them, then spray through them with Carb Cleaner afterwards.

Unclogging these jets and ensuring the rest of your carburetor is free of debris has fixed many  engine and idling performance issues in the Brute Force 750.

Transmission Problems

Kawasaki Brute Force 750 transmission problems are another common flaw with these quads.  Many owners report issues with their machine slipping out gear, the gear shift sticking, or a grinding noise when shifting gears.  These are all likely signs that either the shift linkage needs an adjustment, or the motor mount bolts need retightening.

Shift Linkage Adjustment 

The need for an adjustment to the shift linkage usually occurs due to one or both of the lock nuts that hold the turnbuckle in place vibrating loose, resulting in the shift linkage transferring to an incorrect position.  It will need to be readjusted back into place.

Locate the shift linkage and use a wrench to hold the turnbuckle in place while using another wrench to loosen the two locking nuts on either end as needed.  Once loosened, rotate the turnbuckle counterclockwise shifting it to the left until it kicks into low gear.  You can also turn it clockwise to adjust it the other way if need be.  Tighten the locking nuts back in place when you’re satisfied.

Then test it out by turning on the ignition switch and shifting gears to ensure it is in the correct position.  The gear indicators should match up with the proper gear and the shifter should not stick if the positioning is right, but you may need to make a few adjustments before getting it exactly right.  

Motor Mount Bolts

The motor mount bolts should also be inspected, as they have been known to loosen and cause issues with the gears.  Go over each of them and ensure they are fully tightened, even well over the recommended torque setting in the owner’s manual.

Overheating

The engine overheating is another recurring problem in the Brute Force 750.  This overheating generally occurs for a few different reasons.

• Clogged Radiator
• Fan Switch
• Air Blockage in Coolant System
• Blown Head Gasket

Clogged Radiator

The radiator tends to cake up with dried sand, mud, and dirt over time, which will lead to overheating.  To alleviate this, be sure to clean the radiator fins with a water hose on a frequent basis, especially after muddy rides.  Note that it is important not to use a pressure washer to do this.

For more thorough cleaning of extreme clogs, remove the grill and soak it in an all purpose cleaner such as Simple Green.  Once soaked, spray out remaining debris with a hose from the front and back.

Fan Switch

The Brute Force 750 is factory-set for the fan switch not to trigger until the engine reaches temperatures of around 220 degrees.  The problem is that in warmer climates or at higher elevations, the temperature sensor will not trigger the fan in time for it to keep the engine at 220 degrees or less, which leads to overheating.

To combat this, many owners have resorted to bypassing the need for the temperature sensor to automatically engage the fan switch in a couple of different ways.

Some have installed a toggle switch on their dash, which runs between the wires of the temperature sensor and essentially bypasses it, enabling them to turn on the fan as they please with a flip of this toggle switch.

Others have the action above to a different level, rigging their machines so that the fan automatically engages and runs constantly when the engine is on.

Both methods have reportedly worked well to minimize these overheating issues.

Airlock In Coolant System

An air bubble blockage somewhere in the coolant system is another of the main causes of the Brute Force 750 overheating.  How can an air bubble form?

Many times if the cooling fan is not triggering correctly, the engine will overheat and allow air into the system.  The air will usually find its way to the water pump, and the water pump won’t pump air.  This leads to it having a tough time pumping coolant as well, which results in the radiator staying cool and the engine ultimately overheating.

Once air is in the system, the engine will not stop overheating until that air is burped out.  To burp the air from the system of your ATV, follow the steps below.

• Raise the front end of your quad about a foot higher than the back end by parking on a hill or via a lift
• Ensure the engine is cold
• Remove any bleeder bolt from the radiator
• Remove radiator cap
• Fill it until coolant comes out of the bleeder
• Reinstall the bleeder bolt
• Continue filling radiator until it barely overflows
• You’ll need to repeat steps above for the overflow reservoir as well
• Start the engine and let idle – you’ll most likely see some bubbles
• Once bubbles stop, shut off engine and replenish coolant if necessary
• Repeat this process until you no longer see bubbles
• Reinstall radiator cap (and reservoir cap if applicable)

Your coolant system should be free of any air blockage at this point.  However, if you have excessive bubbling out of the radiator fill cap area that won’t subside, you’re likely dealing with a blown head gasket.

Blown Head Gasket

Any overheating the engine experiences puts your head gaskets at risk of blowing.  And a blown head gasket will lead to recurring overheating.  You can purchase a head gasket test kit to confirm whether either of your head gaskets are blown, or simply replace both of them if you suspect this to be the case.

Conclusion

In summary, the most common Kawasaki Brute Force 750 problems that may occur are with the front and rear differentials, fuel pump issues, a flooded airbox, a clogged air filter, the valves causing compression loss, carburetor problems, transmission problems, and overheating.

While some of these issues can be avoided with proper maintenance and preventative care for your quad, others are completely out of owners’ control and will need to be overcome with some mechanical troubleshooting.