Functions/Settings
Even though you can see only 6 main readings on the display, there are 14 usable functions/settings you can access and adjust based on your needs.
This is a list of what you will find behind the scene, to go to settings press and hold the up and down arrow simultaneously, then use the middle to cycle through and save settings and up and down to adjust. :
- P01 – Display brightness: You can choose from 1 to 3, where 3 is the most bright option (for sunny days).
- P02 – Kilometres or miles per hour: depending on your location, you can select to display the speed in km (“0” ) or mph (“1”). For this to work properly, you need to set the size of your ebike wheels.
- P03 – Voltage of battery and motor: this is where you will specify the volts of your battery and motor. You can select 24v, 36v and 48v. Normally, the SW900 is set to 48v so make sure you select the right voltage grade. However, the sw900 will work up to 72V.
- P04 – Display sleep timer: this come from zero to 60 mins. In this case, zero means your controller will stay on all the time and if 60 mins, it will shut down after 1 hr of no-operation (this will not happen if you are riding your electric bike though).
- P05 – Pedal Assist levels (PAS): there is a total of five (5) PAS. You will see a bunch of numbers with “v” next to it (meaning voltage), so don’t freak out cos you don’t need to do anything with that. In simple words, you can choose “zero” for 1 to 3 levels of PAS and “one” for 1 to 5 levels of PAS. I personally like the “one” setting, since it lets the system deliver more sensitivity in term of my pedaling efforts.
- P06 – Wheel size selection: this is where you establish the size of your wheels in inchs. This is important in order to display the right speed you are traveling.
- *P07 – Speed measuring magnet: this element will be factory calibrated so better not to mess with it. Basically, based on the assistance mode you select and speed limit, it will tell the controller if the motor is delivering the right assistance and therefore if the battery is delivering the correct voltage. This is very important in order to indicate the controller to deactivate the motor if you reach your set speed limit. Ask your trusted bike shop what would be the right setting if you change the ebike motor.
- P08 – Speed limit: this is a very important setting since it will help you set the right speed that will comply with the local regulations and your comfortable riding speed.
- P09 – Zero and Non-Zero Start: This relates to the throttle device activation. A non-zero start means the throttle will have a delay reaction of 1 sec. I believe this relates to safety rather than messing with your patience.
- P10 – Driving mode: you will see 0, 1 and 2, where “0” is to ride with PAS only, 1 for throttle only and 2 for a combination of the PAS and throttle.
- P11 – PAS sensitivity: ranging from 1 to 24, where 24 will give you more riding range due to less battery and motor usage.
- *P12 – PAS start strength: you will find “0” for low strength and 5 for the fullest strength, meaning immediate start.
- *P13 – PAS magnet type: you will have a 5, 8 and 12 type. This comes factory calibrated and will be directly related to the motor type you ebike has.
- *P14 – Current limit of the Controller: set by the manufacturer, you will have a range between 1 to 20Ah. Don’t change it if you don’t need it.
the * symbol means factory calibrated. — credit to electricbikeadvisor.com
| SW900 Error Codes. | |
|---|---|
| 1 | Save. |
| 2 | Brakes are active (Not really an error, just an indication) |
| 3 | PAS issues (at specific mode). |
| 4 | 6 km/h cruising. (only supported on certain controllers) |
| 5 | Real-time cruising. (only supported on certain controllers) |
| 6 | Battery voltage is low. |
| 7 | Motor issues. |
| 8 | Throttle issues. |
| 9 | Controller issues. |
| 10 | Communication receiving issues. (Between controller and display) |
| 11 | Communication transmitting issues. (Between controller and display) |
| 12 | BMS communication issues. |
| 13 | Headlight issues. |
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Contents
Table of Contents -
Bookmarks
Quick Links
LCD-SW900 INSTRUCTIONS
LCD-SW900 INSTRUCTIONS
1. Shell’s Size and Material
The shell’s material is ABS. LCD screen is made of imported high hardness acrylic, and the
hardness is equal to the tempered glass.
Front View
Side View
Side View of the Holder
Optional size: 22.2mm, 25.4mm
2. Working Voltage and Mode of Connection
2.1 Working Voltage: DC24V 36V 48V (set by the meter), other voltage could be customized.
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Summary of Contents for Ourmeter LCD-SW900
Дисплей я покупал на али а всё остальное на 5 KVT,попробовать LCD-3 я и сам хотел бы, только вот проблема-взять негде,ни сервисов у нас ни специализированых магазинов,а недавненько обнаружил что проводок зелёненький что в шлейфе на дисплей не припаян,муляж был,торчал типа на месте и припаян а на самом деле нифига, ладно,хрен с ним припаяю,не в том дело,блин,купить у китайцев LCD-3 чтоль,я не уверен что поможет,бабло только спалю, может контроллер под SW900? Ну ладно, как-то оно да будет,спасибо, дружище,что откликнулся.
P.S.Да к стати,эти хреномуты из 5 квт мотор прислали без опознавательных знаков,вааще!,есть только надпись типа СЕ и какие-то цифирки, мощность двигателя написана в почтовой бумажке,1,5 киловата,судя по параметрам и весу похоже но не факт,я заказывал у них на 1килоатт,видно по запарке отправили-долго не отправляли и я им стал 6-7 раз в день напоминать о себе.Дело в том что у нас магазин 5 квт наверное единственное где можно купить что-то приемлемое,на али таможня,госпошлины и т.д. в тридорога,на родных белорусских сайтах в двадорого вот и приходится с шарамыжниками иметь дела,к стати с мотором и чем-то ещё проблем нету,а,во,тормоза ставил тож с али трёхпиновые на холах,кстати рекоменду-оч.удобно.Ну в общем так как-то.Что,братцы посоветуете—дисплей новый или контроллер?И уж подскажите где лучше взять?Извиняюсь за долгие излияния,по поводу рекуперации—я так понял танцы с бубнами типа перепаять провода на какие-то точки в моём случае безпонтовое занятие,я имею в виду не подзарядку аккума(нифига там не назаряжаешь)а торможение двигателем,нужен лишь нужный дисплей и всё устаканится?
Help! Errore 10 display Sw900 LCD 3 su kit 1500w 48 60 v controller nel mozzo
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Thread starterGuiido
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Start date
Guiido
Finding my (electric) wheels
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#1
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#2
1.No 5V on the wires that need 5V. Measure between the black and red wires on the throttle, pedal sensor or motor hall sensor connectors when the LCD is switched on. If you find no 5V, ask again and we will tell you how to solve that.
2. Connection fault on the cable from the controller to the LCD. Check the connector for corrosion or a bent pin.
3. Zip tie holding cables to the frame pulled too tight, which cuts the wires inside the insulation.
If you have the sealed connectors, you have to probe the pins in the connector to check the 5v. Try any two pins in the throttle connector, then the other two combinations of two pins. If they’re holes rather than pins, stick sewing needles in to be able to make contact for testing.
Last edited:
Guiido
Finding my (electric) wheels
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#3
Guiido
Finding my (electric) wheels
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#4
acceleratore 1.6 v pedale 1.6 v non ci sono 5 v
Guiido
Finding my (electric) wheels
Guiido
Finding my (electric) wheels
Guiido
Finding my (electric) wheels
Guiido
Finding my (electric) wheels
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#10
1. There is a short circuit on the 5v somewhere. Disconnect everything from the controller (throttle, pedal sensor, brakes and anything else) then measure again to see if you get 5v.
2. The 5V regulator in the controller is burnt. that happens when there is a problem, like a short-circuit on the 5v somewhere. if the 5v regulator is blown, you have to open the controller and hope that the circuit board id not potted. It’s easy to replace the regulator and they don’t cost much, but if the circuit board is potted, you must buy a new controller.
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#11
Error 10 means that the LCD does not communicate with the controller. There are many possible reasons for that, but these are most frequent.1.No 5V on the wires that need 5V. Measure between the black and red wires on the throttle, pedal sensor or motor hall sensor connectors when the LCD is switched on. If you find no 5V, ask again and we will tell you how to solve that.
2. Connection fault on the cable from the controller to the LCD. Check the connector for corrosion or a bent pin.
3. Zip tie holding cables to the frame pulled too tight, which cuts the wires inside the insulation.
If you have the sealed connectors, you have to probe the pins in the connector to check the 5v. Try any two pins in the throttle connector, then the other two combinations of two pins. If they’re holes rather than pins, stick sewing needles in to be able to make contact for testing.
I’m getting around 1.5v on the yellow and green wires inside the LCD. Are those supposed to be 5v?
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#12
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#13
HELP please- Error code 10 Voilamart 48v 1000w Rear wheel kit
www.pedelecs.co.uk
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#14
When there is 1.6v instead of 5V, it is because:
1. There is a short circuit on the 5v somewhere. Disconnect everything from the controller (throttle, pedal sensor, brakes and anything else) then measure again to see if you get 5v.2. The 5V regulator in the controller is burnt. that happens when there is a problem, like a short-circuit on the 5v somewhere. if the 5v regulator is blown, you have to open the controller and hope that the circuit board id not potted. It’s easy to replace the regulator and they don’t cost much, but if the circuit board is potted, you must buy a new controller.
Hey there, i have a similar issue, do you have any tips how to exchange the 5V regulator?
best regards!
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#1
I got my ebikeling 3000 watt put together and noticed the display had a 48v sticker. So I hooked of a 48v battery at 54v and got a error 06 check everything and read 06 is battery over voltage and read under voltage ?
So read the email.
New message from: ebikeling Top Rated Seller(8,261Green Star)
Hi,
The recommended battery for 3000w kits is 72v.
The controller is 60 amp peak and compatible with 48v, 52v, 62v, and 72v batteries.
The motor is eBikeling
So I hooked up the 72 volt battery at 82 volts and the display didn’t even turn on and the motor hasn’t turned ???
.
Will call him tomorrow or is it something different
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#2
error code 6 = low battery voltage . 48V sticker on display means preset for 48V ( manual says working voltage is customizable ). I would hook up 48V battery so display can be searched for parameter P03 setting. Then go to parameter resetting ( long press of up and down arrows ) and scroll to P03, select ( short press either arrow ) and see what the choices are. This is the ebikeling link to the display manual https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0144/7143/0208/files/SW900LCDInstructions.pdf?10870232416829744355
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#3
Thank you I had that printed out for ez reading and know I see the supper small arrow between the up and down button. Now that it’s in print I will try. Thank you
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#4
Well hooked up to 48 volt I got to turn on and I was able to program it first 48 v and set everything up. I turn the throttle and nothing. So reprogram to 72v and lcd will not light up ? Two hours of cussing.
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#5
For throttle only, my guess is — 4.4 E-Bike mode = speed handle . P09 = 0 ( zero start = no PAS pulses ) . P10 = 1 ( throttle only )
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#6
Ok it spins at 48v ( just a pedago 48v 10ah 15amp battery at best ) So changed the settings to 72v and it won’t light up ???
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#7
Suspecting high voltage cutoff. Two things that you could do; contact Ebikeling and question them for HVC info. Drain the 72V battery with a load to a lower voltage.
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#8
It also runs at 36v or charge voltage of 41volt and reset and runs at 54v. But won’t light up display at 72v at 81v. Thank you for the help as it runs at 48v and 36,v in the air.
I contacted ebikeling and they asked me for the order number item number etc. I guess they will have to look up what they sent me ?
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#9
Ok put the 72v or 20s of 8ah charged at 75v ( for testing ) of spaim 08 cells no BMS . But the A123 23s pack won’t but split as 12s or 11s packs and set to 36v it will in the air on both ? Had checked with meter at 81v but won’t work ??? But will work at 75v on half charged different pack ??? I did pull one cell out of one pack to make a lemon ass because of bloated and now I tried to run it as a 23s and it won’t work or light up the display head-scratcher must be a short in the batteries somewhere ?
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#10
So fully charged the 20s 8ah pack to 83.5v and can’t turn on the display undervolted 06 I think ? So changed to 60volt on the display and still read undervolted So ?
I also got it running at 36v or real 41v and adjusted the brakes. But in one spot on both sides same place the rim is wide as if it is fatter or spread wider at one spot on both sides and couldn’t be trued into proper true. So it’s running and gave it a ride. Hell what He’ll there’s a flat spot or the bumb in the rim is hitting both pads at the same time ?
The rim is a ( MTX power circle sun ringle ) and I have an email from ebikeling saying that rim is for Both rim and disc brakes. But oh No sweetheart.
I need to contact these people and send it back. Aspen 40 days but he lied to me about the rim and it won’t work at 72 volt and the rim has a flat spot in it.
Things are going love or better they’re going downhill.
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#11
MTX are all disk brakes!
Just get rid of the display, they are more hassle then they are worth, no need for one as you should be able to tell by the wind in your hair how fast you are going, and you should be able to tell how much distance you have left by the response of the throttle or just slap on a voltage reader to the pack. Besides all that, you should have self control so no need for pas either.
Will you have to pay to return the items?
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#12
Ebikeling Hi,
1 Does the motor have two sets of hall sensors wires?
Yes, it does. One is spare.
2 Does it have a temp sensor?
No, it does not.
3 Is it an aluminum stator?
Yes
4. What RPM or wind do you have?
840@72V
5. Which wind has more Cooper fill?
?
6. Do you have a rim brake rim or just a disc?
Markz you were right about the rim
Compatible with both rim brakes and disk brakes
So they said that rim is both and offer a return label. But snice I’m hopeful and took there word for the Truth. I guess in a disc brake rim it wouldn’t matter if it had a wide spot in the rim oh yes it would it would treat the tire different. Anyway a rim brake rim I guess should have a machined sidewall.
This thing has me so deflated.
I am going to contact him today about my complaints and finding out the truth about the rim that must be defective thump thump thump. Fred Flintstone has nothing on this square wheel.
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#13
They sent me a return label. I did try it at 36 volt and I said the rear rim just went thump thump thump thump you couldn’t write it more than a hundred feet. I had used the rim brakes which landed on the MDX rim stickers so we know it’s not a rim brake rim.
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#14
999zip999 said:
They sent me a return label. I did try it at 36 volt and I said the rear rim just went thump thump thump thump you couldn’t write it more than a hundred feet. I had used the rim brakes which landed on the MDX rim stickers so we know it’s not a rim brake rim.
What width of rim do you want?
MTX rim comes in various sizes.
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#15
I just want a simple lazy solution for a 3000watt kit I found out you got to do it yourself. I have a mxus 3,000 with bend rim and have a edge with burnt stator with good rim . Just 72 nipples ahead in my life. Nipple head. Plus I got a bed frame to make turning stand.. Going back to diy. Good rim brake rims are hard tio find.