Air flow meter ошибка

Для начала давайте посмотрим где он стоит и насколько удобно к нему подбираться (показано стрелкой):

Как видите, расположение очень удобное. А вблизи сенсор выглядит вот так:

Немного курсивом: я немного поторопился с этими фото, потому что вначале хотел показать «как рекомендуется обслуживать автомобиль» — картинка ниже. Так, вообще-то говоря, положено делать. И если вы подобного не увидели – попросите работников автосервиса, чтобы они, прежде чем производить какие-то работы на вашем автомобиле – прикрепили накидки на крылья (цифра «2» на рисунке, там внутри есть специальные магнитики; мелочь, как говорится, а не только «приятно», но и уберег от царапин и т.п):

Но вернемся к нашему датчику массового расхода воздуха. Давайте открутим, снимем MAF-sensor и посмотрим на него поближе:

Схематические устройство датчика массового расхода воздуха выглядит таким образом:

Слева на рисунке принципиальная электрическая схема, а справа внешний вид и расположение температурного сенсора и измерительного элемента. Черная стрелка показывает направление потока воздуха. Чтобы увидеть эти сенсоры, которые представляют собой тонкие проволочки, надо перевернуть сенсор и заглянуть вовнутрь:

И так как есть возможность – спилим верхнюю часть:

Ну вот, хорошо виден и температурный сенсор, и измерительный элемент. А сверху, со стороны воздушного фильтра, все вместе сверху будет выглядеть вот таким образом:

Для самых любопытных вот фото, что находится под крышкой датчика:

Датчик температуры воздуха(далее ДТВ) является термистором — полупроводниковым резистором, имеющим резко выраженную зависимость между температурой окружающего воздуха и электрическим сопротивлением.

А теперь самое важное: «Как проверять?». Уверен, что этот вопрос волнует всех владельцев автомобилей Prius. Начнем с ошибок, которые фиксирует блок управления и показывает их на сканере, вот они:

1. По изменению напряжения

Слева-направо: коричневый, белый, зеленый, красный, черный.

Далее подаем на расходомер поток воздуха и наблюдаем изменение напряжения на вольтметре. Если напряжение не меняется – расходомер неисправен (см. фото ниже).

Измеряем сопротивление между коричневым и белым проводами.

Если будете проверять не самостоятельно, а поедите в автосервис, то можете показать специалисту (если у него нет), таблицу из мануала, по которой он может понять, что ему проверять, как проверять и на что ориентироваться:

Но без всякого анализа показаний мы можем увидеть на датчике следующую картину:

Как это устроено на практике. Смотрим на это фото:

На чистом датчике капелька и спирали измерителя должны выглядеть так:

Последний момент, на который хочется обратить внимание читателей — это уплотнительное резиновое кольцо ДМРВ. Как оно выглядит, и его оригинальный номер вы можете увидеть на фото

Информацию по обслуживанию и ремонту автомобилей вы найдете в книге (книгах):

• 
• Forum
• BMW Models
• 3 series & 4 Series (E21, E30, E36, E46, E9x, F30, F32, F33, F36, F44)
• 1983 — 1991 (E30)
• Air Flow Meter — Failed

1. Air Flow Meter — Failed
   

   After considering what I thought were fuel issues, I have discovered with the use of my Peake R5/fcx tool, that I have an AFM (air flow meter) issue (Peake DTC 07 in the K1 table). I bench-tested the AFM and I’m not getting voltage out on pin-7 as I should. Seems to be dead. I opened up the meter and the contacts and board all look clean and intact.

   I was wondering what other owners have replaced their original AFMs with. Does anyone know of compatible AFMs other than a used one like the original, assuming I can find one?

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2. Originally Posted by tdf
   

   After considering what I thought were fuel issues, I have discovered with the use of my Peake R5/fcx tool, that I have an AFM (air flow meter) issue (Peake DTC 07 in the K1 table). I bench-tested the AFM and I’m not getting voltage out on pin-7 as I should. Seems to be dead. I opened up the meter and the contacts and board all look clean and intact.

   I was wondering what other owners have replaced their original AFMs with. Does anyone know of compatible AFMs other than a used one like the original, assuming I can find one?

   How did you test for voltage on that AFM man? I may have the same issue as you with the way things are going….

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3. Helpful Video for Testing MAF
   

   Originally Posted by Jcrunk
   

   How did you test for voltage on that AFM man? I may have the same issue as you with the way things are going….

   I found this video helpful:
   (137) DIY: BMW Air Flow Meter Testing — YouTube

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4. Get rid of the afm, go with Miller MAF and chip. If you’re adventurous you can get some Ford 19# fuel injectors and get the Miller MAF chip for the 19# injectors. Wakes up the car pretty nicely, especially torque on the low end of the rev range.

   Last edited by sienayr; 03-24-2023 at 04:53 PM.

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5. Miller MAF (as stated) has been around for a bit.

   I also am aware of this guy that will refurb the AFM and if you search, will find info on his products on both E30 forums..

   https://www.bavrest.com/air-flow-meter-service.html

   — — — Updated — — —

   His process : https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for…afm-s-for-sale

   1974 Fiat 124SC
   1981 Porsche 911SC
   1990 BMW 325IX, 1991 BMW 325IC, & 1991 BMW 325I
   2002 BMW 325I
   2012 BMW X3

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6. sssquid has a maf conversion that translates signal so the ecu can use it. can be paired with a chip or run stock depending on your needs.

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7. Compatibility Question
   

   Originally Posted by sienayr
   

   Get rid of the afm, go with Miller MAF and chip. If you’re adventurous you can get some Ford 19# fuel injectors and get the Miller MAF chip for the 19# injectors. Wakes up the car pretty nicely, especially torque on the low end of the rev range.

   Will the Miller GEN III MAF

   run nicely with the stock tune?

   Thanks for the replies. Nice to know I have some options!

   Last edited by tdf; 03-25-2023 at 12:22 PM.

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8. miller puts out a kit for stock tune.
   do a search. mixed bag on a stock tune. most add a maf when going with a chip and other engine upgrades.

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9. Looks like sssquid has a basic MAF conversion kit that works by translating the signal from the MAF to an AFM signal upstream of the ECU, so with that product you can actually run a MAF with 100% stock tune and hardware. It’s basically tricking the ECU into thinking it’s an AFM still sending the signal, so no ECU chip is required. Pretty cool. Looks like it can be adjusted to work with different MAFs as well. You would probably get a little better throttle response with AFM «barn door» being gone, but not sure about torque/HP gains with that solution since the stock tune chip is still in place.

   The Miller solution takes a different approach; rather than performing the MAF to AFM signal conversion upstream of the ECU, it replaces the stock chip with a different tune chip that enables the MAF signal to be interpreted directly by the ECU. So with the Miller solution you are removing the stock tune and adding a new tune (the Miller chip) that will work with the MAF. In the case of Miller you can get a tune chip that is optimized for the MAF and 91 octane fuel and works with the stock hardware (ECU, injectors, etc), or you can get the tune for 19# fuel injectors that provides a little extra torque and HP. I believe that the Miller solution will only work with the MAF that is supplied with the product, unlike the sssquid solution which can adapt to different MAFs.

   I think one benefit with the Miller solution providing a chip is that the tune has been optimized for the MAF, unlike the sssquid solution which wouldn’t provide any MAF optimization. But a benefit of the sssquid solution is that you can use any other tune chip out there with the MAF, whereas with Miller you only have the option of using the Miller chip with the MAF, unless you step up to their WAR chip which allows fully customizable tuning.

   Last edited by sienayr; 03-27-2023 at 12:56 PM.

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10. Originally Posted by sienayr
    

    Looks like sssquid has a basic MAF conversion kit that works by translating the signal from the MAF to an AFM signal upstream of the ECU, so with that product you can actually run a MAF with 100% stock tune and hardware. It’s basically tricking the ECU into thinking it’s an AFM still sending the signal, so no ECU chip is required. Pretty cool. Looks like it can be adjusted to work with different MAFs as well. You would probably get a little better throttle response with AFM «barn door» being gone, but not sure about torque/HP gains with that solution since the stock tune chip is still in place.

    The Miller solution takes a different approach; rather than performing the MAF to AFM signal conversion upstream of the ECU, it replaces the stock chip with a different tune chip that enables the MAF signal to be interpreted directly by the ECU. So with the Miller solution you are removing the stock tune and adding a new tune (the Miller chip) that will work with the MAF. In the case of Miller you can get a tune chip that is optimized for the MAF and 91 octane fuel and works with the stock hardware (ECU, injectors, etc), or you can get the tune for 19# fuel injectors that provides a little extra torque and HP. I believe that the Miller solution will only work with the MAF that is supplied with the product, unlike the sssquid solution which can adapt to different MAFs.

    I think one benefit with the Miller solution providing a chip is that the tune has been optimized for the MAF, unlike the sssquid solution which wouldn’t provide any MAF optimization. But a benefit of the sssquid solution is that you can use any other tune chip out there with the MAF, whereas with Miller you only have the option of using the Miller chip with the MAF, unless you step up to their WAR chip which allows fully customizable tuning.

    i’m going with a sssquid chip and likely doing their maf conversion later. the ability to return to stock look easily / revert to afm if needed for inspection helps.

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11. I am looking at the sssquid maf conversion also. I like the advantage of easy reversion to stock.

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12. Good Explanation
    

    Originally Posted by sienayr
    

    Looks like sssquid has a basic MAF conversion kit that works by translating the signal from the MAF to an AFM signal upstream of the ECU, so with that product you can actually run a MAF with 100% stock tune and hardware. It’s basically tricking the ECU into thinking it’s an AFM still sending the signal, so no ECU chip is required. Pretty cool. Looks like it can be adjusted to work with different MAFs as well. You would probably get a little better throttle response with AFM «barn door» being gone, but not sure about torque/HP gains with that solution since the stock tune chip is still in place.

    The Miller solution takes a different approach; rather than performing the MAF to AFM signal conversion upstream of the ECU, it replaces the stock chip with a different tune chip that enables the MAF signal to be interpreted directly by the ECU. So with the Miller solution you are removing the stock tune and adding a new tune (the Miller chip) that will work with the MAF. In the case of Miller you can get a tune chip that is optimized for the MAF and 91 octane fuel and works with the stock hardware (ECU, injectors, etc), or you can get the tune for 19# fuel injectors that provides a little extra torque and HP. I believe that the Miller solution will only work with the MAF that is supplied with the product, unlike the sssquid solution which can adapt to different MAFs.

    I think one benefit with the Miller solution providing a chip is that the tune has been optimized for the MAF, unlike the sssquid solution which wouldn’t provide any MAF optimization. But a benefit of the sssquid solution is that you can use any other tune chip out there with the MAF, whereas with Miller you only have the option of using the Miller chip with the MAF, unless you step up to their WAR chip which allows fully customizable tuning.

    I was considering going with the Miller MAF. But, I want to be sure that I really need to go in that direction. It isn’t conclusive yet as to whether my MAF is failed. I have an appointment with a local BMW specialist on the 19th for data stream analysis.

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13. Originally Posted by tdf
    

    I was considering going with the Miller MAF. But, I want to be sure that I really need to go in that direction. It isn’t conclusive yet as to whether my MAF is failed. I have an appointment with a local BMW specialist on the 19th for data stream analysis.

    do they have an oscilliscope and acquisition system ?

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14. I went through this a couple of years ago for my ’89 325i. Getting the AFM rebuilt and reliably so was not much cheaper than buying the Miller MAF and chip. The throttle response alone was worth it. No more lag waiting for that barn door inside the AFM to move. If I remember, the Miller MAF and chip is optimized for 91 octane. I get exactly the same mpg as I was before, but more fun. Make sure if you go that way to buy a new rubber boot. The MAF sensor is slightly larger in diameter than the stock AFM, so you need new rubber to stretch. I had to gently heat mine with a hair dryer and immediately work it on, and I don’t think it’s ever coming back off intact.

    1989 BMW 325i Coupe
    1989 Suburban 4×4
    2014 Ram 1500 4×4
    1945 Willys MB Jeep
    1959 Triumph TR3A

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