79 transfer clutch duty solenoid circuit ошибка субару

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The computer can only detect if the circuit has too much resistance, or too little.

So either there’s a bad connection, a developing short to ground, the solenoid is going ‘open’, or is shorting out.

Clunk while going into park is a sign the AWD is engaged more fully than it should not be, the ‘wind-up’ in the system is released when in N or P.

I’d at least check the connectors for tightness and pull them apart and check for corrosion.

What year is it? Older cars, +12V to the solenoid signals no lockup so loss of connection causes 100% lock and bind.

Newer cars, 0V causes no lockup, so a failure results in front wheel drive.

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1 hour ago, CNY_Dave said:

The computer can only detect if the circuit has too much resistance, or too little.

So either there’s a bad connection, a developing short to ground, the solenoid is going ‘open’, or is shorting out..

Testing is best in case odd things are present, but if the FWD fuse is working does that suggest the circuit is likely good?

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5 hours ago, CNY_Dave said:

The computer can only detect if the circuit has too much resistance, or too little.

So either there’s a bad connection, a developing short to ground, the solenoid is going ‘open’, or is shorting out.

Clunk while going into park is a sign the AWD is engaged more fully than it should not be, the ‘wind-up’ in the system is released when in N or P.

I’d at least check the connectors for tightness and pull them apart and check for corrosion.

What year is it? Older cars, +12V to the solenoid signals no lockup so loss of connection causes 100% lock and bind.

Newer cars, 0V causes no lockup, so a failure results in front wheel drive.

It is a 2002 outback. 

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5 hours ago, CNY_Dave said:

The computer can only detect if the circuit has too much resistance, or too little.

So either there’s a bad connection, a developing short to ground, the solenoid is going ‘open’, or is shorting out.

Clunk while going into park is a sign the AWD is engaged more fully than it should not be, the ‘wind-up’ in the system is released when in N or P.

I’d at least check the connectors for tightness and pull them apart and check for corrosion.

What year is it? Older cars, +12V to the solenoid signals no lockup so loss of connection causes 100% lock and bind.

Newer cars, 0V causes no lockup, so a failure results in front wheel drive.

Where would i find the connectors are they easy to access? 

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22 hours ago, idosubaru said:

Testing is best in case odd things are present, but if the FWD fuse is working does that suggest the circuit is likely good?

Only good enough and at that moment.

Measuring the resistance cold then hot can be informative.

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18 hours ago, Colec533 said:

Where would i find the connectors are they easy to access? 

At the TCU is one place, another is at the firewall right behind the throttle body.

There are pinout diagrams somewhere.

Oh, it could also be the TCU itself, the drive transistor for that circuit could be failing.

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On 6/27/2018 at 2:57 AM, CNY_Dave said:

Only good enough and at that moment.

Measuring the resistance cold then hot can be informative.

The FWD fuse worked for maybe a 5-minute drive and drove better but then all the sudden the light went out and it switched back into AWD and the green power light came back on flashing. It seems the car drove better when the light isn’t on but I can still tell something is not right. But when it comes on I start to get worse symptoms clunking becomes worse and starts to happen when coming to a stop sometimes. Switching gears is a lot rougher when hitting the gas. Could this maybe be something to do with the back wheels engaging at the wrong time or do you think it’s something worse? 

I’ve heard it’s okay to drive with a bad solenoid short term could drive 1500/1600kms with a bad solenoid c likely damaged something else? or is that not considered a long time to be driving. 

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If it is engaging too well it becomes harsher whenever anything changes in the drivetrain because it allows any ‘windup’ to suddenly dissipate.

If it’s really harsh you may have tires too far out of matching diameter/circumference spec.

The solenoid itself won’t damage anything else, but the binding can damage the CV joints and such. It puts a lot of strain on everything.

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you checked fluid level and condition right?

how long you can drive depends on too many variables to say, more turns are bad, less forgiving surfaces are bad, straight driving is fine, mismatched tires may exaccerbate things, how long was it previously driven, was it towed improperly in a past life (common)….hard to say, but generally you can driven them a little while.

they do fail from binding — usually the ujoints in the rear driveshaft fail, or the internal drum shears off, i imagine a weak rear CV joint could also let loose since those fail on the offroad guys, but i haven’t seen it happen strictly due to torque bind.

if you can’t fix it soon, ideally you force it to «locked» and disconnect the rear driveshaft so you can just run it in FWD until you figure it out proper. 

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4 cylinder or 6 cylinder? 
VDC or non-VDC trans?

i think for that year all JDM trans are VDC…or all JDM H6’s anyway are VDC, but that is not the case in the US, so what do you have?

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5 hours ago, idosubaru said:

you checked fluid level and condition right?

how long you can drive depends on too many variables to say, more turns are bad, less forgiving surfaces are bad, straight driving is fine, mismatched tires may exaccerbate things, how long was it previously driven, was it towed improperly in a past life (common)….hard to say, but generally you can driven them a little while.

they do fail from binding — usually the ujoints in the rear driveshaft fail, or the internal drum shears off, i imagine a weak rear CV joint could also let loose since those fail on the offroad guys, but i haven’t seen it happen strictly due to torque bind.

if you can’t fix it soon, ideally you force it to «locked» and disconnect the rear driveshaft so you can just run it in FWD until you figure it out proper. 

I checked the fluid and it is fairly brown not red at all and a little cloudy, could bad fluid itself cause a solenoid c code to come up? if the code is present does that mean there is for sure something wrong with the solenoid ifself or the wiring? or could bad fluid throw the code and cause bad preformance when driving especially up hill a lot of clunking on the gas peddle and rough shifting when it shifts into gears while driving the car kind of jerks forward and switches into gear sometimes clunking. I plan to have the solenoid and a transmission drain and fill/flush done. 

I didnt have any binding symptoms until the green power light started to come on a lot more often when it first came on it came on flashing and went out when car was turned off and didnt come on for a week or two then it started to come on a lot more frequently usually at the end of a a hour — 2 hour drive. And the transmission starts to feel a lot worse and not preform properly.

Because the FWD fuse worked for a short period of time does that mean that my wiring is most likely fine?

Now it does not work at all when inserting the fuse. 

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5 hours ago, idosubaru said:

4 cylinder or 6 cylinder? 
VDC or non-VDC trans?

i think for that year all JDM trans are VDC…or all JDM H6’s anyway are VDC, but that is not the case in the US, so what do you have?

Its a 4cyl 2.5 2002 outback, car is located in Australia. Not sure about the VDC how woulD i check this? 

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после покатух загорелась ошибка 79 и 75

сразу скажу что ремонт производится у serjant

итак , фото:

итог: поломался соленоид акпп, и порвался (перетерся) провод еще одного соленоид акпп.

коробка в аварийном режиме. всего 3 передачи… после первой удар происходит.

завтра продолжение ремонта.

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да, кстати, у меня появилась блокировка )))))))))

Чего?

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да, кстати, у меня появилась блокировка )))))))))

Чего?

блокировка дифференциала или что то то на нее похожее. вроде как блокировка есть.

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да, кстати, у меня появилась блокировка )))))))))

Чего?

блокировка дифференциала или что то то на нее похожее. вроде как блокировка есть.

ну мы ему лом воткнули в задний дифиренциал, теперь у него есть блокировка ))))

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belkus, а где территориально производился ремонт? если мастер такой хороший, то познакомлюсь и ГрМ поменяю у него! =.))

serjant, Серег, сколько денег возьмешь за замену ГРМ (все кроме помпы)?

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ну вот:

сегодня приобрел с разборке тот самы соленоид и его внедрили + жижу поменяли, пыльник на место усадили и защиту по грамотному прикрутили

и машина поехала :clapping: :good:

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belkus, чего ремонт обошолся?

2тыр датчик,3500работа(примерно), 1 день 5часов копались,2ой часа3

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belkus, чего ремонт обошолся?

2тыр датчик,3500работа(примерно), 1 день 5часов копались,2ой часа3

плин, а почему никто не считает нервы и сигареты ))) а есчо серые клетки мозга потраченные ))

Изменено 15 Июня 2012 пользователем serjant

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belkus, чего ремонт обошолся?

2тыр датчик,3500работа(примерно), 1 день 5часов копались,2ой часа3

плин, а почему никто не считает нервы и сигареты ))) а есчо серые клетки мозга потраченные ))

Серег, это все зачтется!;)

кстати если уж зашла речь про нервные клетки, то тогда надо считать за минусом приобретенного опыта!

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не указано главное — причина выхода из сторя соленойда, а так-же чем, и почему перетерло проводку

Жена поучаствовала в покатушках. днищем пару раз об коряги (корни деревьев) как далась , как далась, мля…..короче, надо ставить защиту под коробку.поддон очень близок к соленоидам. при ударе поддон долбит соленоид.

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