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Добрый день помогите разобраться с ошибками 2EEA и 2E85. В инете посмотрел кажется с насосом охл жидкости что то но не могу понять что машина не греется каких то признаков нету только при сканировании выдает эти ошибки
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Тихо-тихо! Вижу проблемы у тебя… с температурой! Но скрытые… призрачные! Вижу машину твою, чОрную, глазастую!
Но двигатель не вижу. Прости, братан, но моей силы телепатии не хватает, чтобы понять, что у тебя за двигатель.
Помпа дохнет, но пока работает. Производительность ее уже не полная.
Наверное.
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- Регистрация:
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Друг машина белая )) мотор н51 ну перегрева нет пока водится нормальноно есть ли способ проверить помпу или надо уже думать о замене??
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Что за н51? Не помню…
Если н52, то помпа электрическая. И она сдыхая, выдаёт ошибки. У кого как, бывает с ошибками и тысяч 30 ещё проходит.
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N51 это в Калифорнии такие продавали, чуть больше экологии
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Hi I�m getting code 2EEA on my 09 N62. I just finished the VSS job. Replaced a ton of other items as well. Did the valley pan & coolant transfer pipe as well. Started the vehicle back up and had a ton of codes, worked all but 1 out. Looked up the code and it�s for the coolant temp sensor, replaced it as well & still getting the code. But looking at the plug there is only 1 wire. Is this correct? Seems odd to me. There are 2 holes but one doesn�t have anything in it. It�s just black plastic. I�ve tried to look a few places but no info. I checked my other 2 BMWs and they both have 2 wires running to the coolant temp sensor. Thank you in advance.
-1995 BMW 325i (Sold)
-1990 Nissan 300ZX TT (Sold)
-2003 Yamaha R6 (Sold)
-2007 BMW 328i
-1999 BMW M3 (Sold)
-2002 BMW 325ci
-2013 BMW 320i
-2009 BMW X5 4.8
2EEA error — Replace coolant temperature sensor? | FerrariChat
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BANNED
- Nov 15, 2022
- 78
- Full Name:
- pexogoce
E46, 316i, N46, Touring 2007 year
Car is working fine, but I have constantly recurring error:
2EEA CDKTKA — Temperaturfuehler Kuehleraustritt
P2184 Motorkühlmitteltemperaturfühler 2 — Input niedrig
Error counter: 36
Logistic counter: 40
1. Umweltsatz
Mileage 220610 km
Motordrehzahl (nmot) 2640.00 /min
Motortemperatur (tmot) 24.75 Grad C
Umgebungstemperatur (tumg) 6.75 Grd C
ADC TKA (adtka) 5.00 V
2. Umweltsatz
Mileage 220620 km
Motordrehzahl (nmot) 1520.00 /min
Motortemperatur (tmot) 57.75 Grad C
Umgebungstemperatur (tumg) 6.75 Grd C
ADC TKA (adtka) 5.00 V
3. Umweltsatz
Mileage 221000 km
Motordrehzahl (nmot) 0.00 /min
Motortemperatur (tmot) 12.75 Grad C
Umgebungstemperatur (tumg) 9.75 Grd C
ADC TKA (adtka) 5.00 V
Kurzschluss nach Plus oder Leitungsunterbrechung
Testbedingungen erfuellt
Fehler momentan nicht vorhanden, aber bereits gespeichert
Fehler wuerde kein Aufleuchten einer Warnlampe verursachen
Diagnose aktiv
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Zyklus-Flag gesetzt
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Error code: 2E EA 22 05 21 84 24 28 56 2D 42 61 49 FF 56 2E
26 8D 49 FF 56 54 00 51 4D FFHave someone met this problem? What was the solution?
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BANNED
- Nov 15, 2022
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- pexogoce
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Silver Subscribed
FYI, E46 is a 3 Series BMW. I have a 2004 325ci, but never had this error code. The back of the service manual has a list of error codes; they all start with a «P» followed by a 4-digit number.
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Consultant
First, you know this is a Ferrari forum, correct? Ferrari knowledge runs deep, BMW not so much although many of us own and drive BMWs (me included).
You have over 200,000 kms on the car, and while I don’t know where the coolant temp sensor is on the Bimmer, it cannot be expensive to change it out. My practice on my own E61 BMW (5 series) is to change out the entire cooling system every 100,000 miles. That includes: radiator, coolant tank, coolant hoses, water pump, and thermostat. I probably should add the coolant temp sensor to that list at 200,000 miles coming up here.
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BANNED
- Nov 15, 2022
- 78
- Full Name:
- pexogoce
thank you so much for your suggestion
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I do the same on my E39 540 M-Sport…been through three «cooling system overhauls» over the years. I also add the fan clutch, valley pan and a few other things…one and done for another 100k. I passed 347,000 miles this weekend…
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Consultant
I started doing that since all BMWs I have owned broke down right at 100,000 miles like clockwork. The neck of the radiator breaks, or the water pump goes, or the coolant hoses, so they all get changed out at the same time on every BMW I own. For radiators, I only buy from the dealer. The after market ones don’t seem to fit, have all accessories, or work at all.
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I’ve done the same…though I try to buy from the original equipment supplier where possible. It bit me a couple years ago when I bought the Behr expansion tank OES online and the thing kept throwing «low coolant» warnings. I tried to diagnose the issue and even swapped out the sensor, but still happened. I think the float was messed up inside the tank, but seemed to be freely moving. Tons of negative reviews on FCP Euro….so I ordered a factory BMW one…also made by Behr. Works perfectly. The BMW/Behr one is made in Germany, the OES one by Behr is made in China…go figure.
Never had an issue with the OES water pump. Both BMW and OES are Saleri and both made in Italy. $200+ price difference
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Consultant
I have learned to buy factory OEMs on certain things. Radiators, coolant tanks, thermostats, water pumps are those that I only buy from dealers. Especially on cars driven by the women in my life (wife and daugters). Those girls will drive the cars with the engine light flashing until the cars go no more. It’s best to just avoid those things that break.
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Consultant
I have Behr radiators made for BMW leak right out of the box. I have Behr radiators made for Audi missing mounting brackets for the fans and the fan controller. The aggravation is so much that $500 for a dealer radiator seems so small.
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My experience with Behr radiators whether from dealer or OES is mixed. I have had both fail early (less than 50k miles).
