2e97 ошибка bmw генератор

My SWAG is:
1) Your soul will be just fine
2) If the Alternator you put the Bosch Regulator in (Bosch Part# F00M346088 & BMW Part# 123117561939) was a Bosch 180 Amp Alternator, your Battery, Electrical System, Alternator, and ALL the ECU’s that caused the light show from «Over-voltage» will be just fine now. I trust you cleaned up any spilled battery acid in the battery well, and connected the «Vent Tube»?
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/BS-12317561939

3) If you drive with Hidden Menu 9.00 showing System Voltage as Live Data on your instrument cluster, and Voltage with engine running stays between 13.5V & 14.8V and your battery keeps its charge, then the Fault Code is NOT of any significance — just something about «Generator»/Alternator Identification is NOT properly recognized the way your DME is programmed.
http://e90.wikifoundry.com/page/BC+hidden+menus

There are FOUR (4) different definitions of the Hex-code «2E97», and a different P-code for EACH of those 4 definitions, as per this Bentley Info:
POA3B | 2E97 | Generator Over Temperature
P0620 | 2E97 | Generator Control Circuit
P3223 | 2E97 | Generator Mechanical
P324A | 2E97 | Generator Type Implausible

If you don’t have a Scan Tool that reads P-codes, or does NOT provide the proper definition AND/OR the corresponding P-code, just stop by a local Advance Auto or Autozone, and get someone to read the code, making sure you take a photo of the Tool Screen and Note the Definition & P-Code. My final SWAG is that it will be either P324A, Generator Type Implausible, OR P0620, Generator Control Circuit.

Unless you forgot to hook up the IBS connection to the Chassis (smaller of two IBS connectors), or forgot to connect the IBS connector to the new Voltage Regulator, odds are that the new part just does NOT communicate (via BSD Bus) with the «Generator ID» process by the DME in the same way the old one did. If the new Regulator keeps the battery properly charged, WITHOUT Over-voltage which CAN damage ECU’s and the Battery, as well as causing the Light Show & «Wipers from Hell» you experienced, WHY would you spend $400+ on a Reman Alternator?

If you have INPA/ISTA, do the Alternator Activation/Triggering procedure after connecting either program to the DME. If you can control Alternator Output voltage with INPA/ISTA, then the DME IS controlling it. The proof is in use of Hidden Menu 9.00 (or scan tool reading Live Data) as you drive.

Please let us know what you find,
George

1. Hello,

   Issue
   Since last fall (Fall 2019), the code 2E97 (Generator) has been on my dash.

   History
   I had installed a new Alternator with Voltage Regulator and Clutch Pulley approx Jan of 2019.
   This was not due to voltage issues, but rather a bad Clutch Pulley and it I’m pretty sure the Alternator was original, so replaced it all.
   I experienced no issues until Fall of 2019, just days before garaging my car for winter (when I tend to do my maintenance).
   I had the battery tested in the Fall of 2019 and it reported back as bad and not actually fully charging.
   I bought a new one from a BMW dealer and coded it to the car.
   This code (2E97) persisted.
   The battery voltage with car running was approx 15.5~ vdc (I don’t recall as accurately as I did at the time, but it was high, not low — I was expecting around 14.4vdc)
   I bought a new Bosch Voltage Regulator and get the identical code persisting.
   If I clear the code, it pops back right away.

   Worth Noting
   I did get 2E8B (Intelligent battery sensor, signal) code after changing the battery.
   After clearing the code, it stays away.
   If I wiggle the negative cable (or remove for maintenance) the code returns. Then I clear and it stays away again.

   What could be the source of the issue?
   BMW battery is registered. It tests OK and takes a charge (externally) well.
   Code 2E97 reports immediately after clearing (like 2 seconds), so issue must be present.
   Battery is charging at approx 15.5-15.9 vdc, just the same after installing another new Bosch VR.

   Can it be Alternator? Even though my dvm shows continuous charge? (albeit, a higher voltage than I expected)
   Could it be the IBS, reporting wonky info to the DME, resulting in invalid charging voltages to the battery?

   Many thanks for any and all feedback!

   I bought INPA-D if there is anything there that may help narrow this down further. (still learning to navigate this software)

   Last edited by Codes2; 04-21-2020 at 05:22 PM.

   ---

2. Your alternator should not ever be charging that high! I’ve only ever seen it that high when the alternator is trashed. Occasionally I do see it close to 15v when the car has a weak or dead/nearly dead battery.

   And you do get a code for the IBS, so I would definitely replace it.

   ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

   ---

3. Originally Posted by White94RX
   

   Your alternator should not ever be charging that high! I’ve only ever seen it that high when the alternator is trashed. Occasionally I do see it close to 15v when the car has a weak or dead/nearly dead battery.

   And you do get a code for the IBS, so I would definitely replace it.

   Thanks White94RX!

   I had wondered if there could be another reason for the higher voltage. Changing the VR had zero affect.

   * I’ll order an IBS today.
   * Should I wait on results from replacement IBS, or just get the Alternator replacement underway?

   I seriously appreciate your reading and response.

   ** EDIT ** I was reading again. Given you have only seen it that high when it was the Alternator, I’ll start processing that now. Thanks!!

   Last edited by Codes2; 04-22-2020 at 09:49 AM.

   ---

4. I have no experience with INPA, only ISTA. Are they similar? Does INPA have test plans like ISTA? You need to run the energy diagnosis test plan to know the real health of the battery.

   Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

   ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

   ---

5. If your reading voltage with a multimeter, try on another car to determine if the meter reads high. What does the battery read after car sits overnight, with engine off? Should be about 12.5 volts.

   ---

6. Thanks both.

   ISTA-D, sorry.

   As to voltage, the car report, my meter and my charger all agree. When on a standard charger and sitting overnight it is in the 12.5~ range.

   This battery is now new from the dealer though, so likely good.
   And codes are the same as when the prior battery was installed.

   I’m open to running a diagnostic.
   Just setting ISTA-D back up with legit instance.
   Also, not sure where to find it! Lol

   Note sure if this is worth noting, but the last battery had an AH @ 20 Hours of 90, while this new one is 92.

   It seems I need ISTA-P to change this number, while just ISTA-D to reset it… which is what I did for the meantime.

   I have a hard time picturing 2% reserve having the affect I’m seeing now, particularly because I had the same code with the last battery before I swapped it out.

   Very open to input.

   ---

7. The 90-92 amp hour difference is nothing to be concerned about.

   ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

   ---

8. Thanks White94RX. That finally puts my mind at rest about needing ISTA-P to change the Ah value. I will put aside that effort.

   The only ‘battery test’ I found was one that showed the last 32(?) charge cycles and results.
   This is effectively a historical log of performance.

   Is there an Active Test i can perform with ISTA-D? I searched, but didn’t locate.

   Thanks!

   Last edited by Codes2; 04-23-2020 at 10:00 AM.

   ---

9. We had a e60 say 2007 that other shops had replaced the alternator like 3 times turned out the sensor on the negative battery cable was not working correctly at all and allowing higher charging voltage than normal. Replace it fixed

   ---

10. Thanks jclausen. I shall be hoping for the same for my car.

    The IBS should be here by the end of this month.
    I’ll test and post results following.

    If still an issue, on to the Alternator.

    ---

11. In ISTA, Vehicle management tab, then troubleshooting tab, then function structure, body, voltage supply, «energy diagnosis». Run that test plan. Lots of good info in there, including battery charge status, unauthorized wakeups, etc, etc.

    ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

    ---

12. ** EDIT ** White94RX — Thanks for the direction. I ran every test I could find. Only the below one «incorrect type of alternator» stood out.

    First, thanks for the feedback so far!

    I know I can be wordy… so main points in bold…

    I received the new IBS cable, only to find out that the connectors are different. Subsequently I ordered the adapter. I just installed both and tested.
    — The voltage at the battery, while running is still 15.2 vdc (high).
    — Additionally, the ‘2E97 Generator’ code returns within 30 seconds of being cleared.

    So, with a new Battery and now a new IBS, I’m back to looking at my 1 year old Alternator.
    Interesting (but maybe less so to those familiar with ISTA+), under one test, it states «An incorrect type of alternator has been installed in this vehicle: Install the correct alternator.» (ABL-DIT-B1214_TVD-GEN-2 — Alternator — V.27)
    That said, I just verified what I had bought last year and it’s PN matches that of RealOEM (links below — PN

    12317558220)
    RealOEM: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho…diagId=12_1198
    RockAuto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo…=1441663&jsn=1

    This alternator worked well (by all appearances, with no codes) until abruptly last fall, the day before I stored it for the winter.
    Is this actually the wrong Alternator?
    Or has it just ‘died’ and needs to be replaced?
    (I’m sure I’m buying a new one now… but nervous to simply buy based on PN if this is actually ‘incorrect’)

    ** EDIT ** This is under Lifetime Warranty. So if this is part is in-fact ‘correct’, I’ll get a WR. If I’m advised it is NOT, then I will order something else.

    Last edited by Codes2; 05-06-2020 at 05:44 PM.

    ---

13. Based on the Part Numbers, and no personal knowledge beyond this, I’ve proceeded with the WR.
    Even though ISTA+ states «An incorrect type of alternator has been installed in this vehicle: Install the correct alternator.«

    I should have the replacement Alternator on Tuesday and plan to install Wednesday, weather permitting.
    We’ll see what the Voltage at the Battery is. Hopefully in the 14.4 vdc range and the «Generator» (2E97) clears.
    Out of curiosity, I’ll also check if ISTA+ continues to report «…incorrect type of alternator…». (including the exact steps to that report)

    Thanks all!

    ---

14. I installed the WR alternator.
    No more 2E97 (Generator) code.
    Charging voltage is hovers in the 14.4~ range quite well.
    Further, with the new Alternator, in ISTA+ I no longer find any message stating «An incorrect type of alternator has been installed in this vehicle: Install the correct alternator.»

    I’ve driven the car for days now. (since Tues of last week)
    Periodically I get the code — 2DED Power management, standby current control. (hasn’t lit up the CEL, just pops up in the background)
    I have had it pop up after just fueling or after a few days of intermittent use.
    I see no drain in the battery overnight. I’ll monitor closer, but the car goes into full sleep after 10 mins, no lights, no comfort access interruptions.
    I’ve run the ISTA+ power diagnostic. However, I have played so much with the car on stands over winter, put the charger on/off, started and stopped it that the history wasn’t valid.
    I cleared the history last Wednesday. We’ll see what ISTA+ states in a couple days after sitting.
    I’ll also put a dvm on the battery with the leads out of the trunk, then leave it parked for a few days. I expect the full charge to remain.

    Note: Earlier, after installing the new IBS cable, I got the IBS code (2E8B Intelligent battery sensory, signal) once, shortly after. I suspect this just happens each time it’s disconnected. It happened on my previous IBS cable as well, but once left alone it was OK. I believe it’s save to ignore. I’ll make sure not to flex my new one in any way, unlike my original.

    ---

15. Hot Tip

    After installing my 3rd Alternator, and getting tired of the awkward approaches available, I modified my car per the image below.
    I bagged around the area prior to grinding, then put my shop-vac hose in to pick up as fast as I ground. Worked out well.

    The Alternator now slides in from right to left (back to front of car), without running into the Oil Filter Housing.
    I did put a very slight chamfer on the Alternator where it gets pinched on it’s way through — but very subtle, per the image.

    20200515_152618.jpg

    ---

16. Crazy. This new Alternator stopped outputting after 5 days of clean use.
    It was working great (watching Voltage as I drive) the night I shut the car off. Then the next AM I checked for codes before starting the car (monitoring for any power drain — there was none) and the same Generator code popped up. Verified this failure after starting car.
    I tested with a new Bosch VR, same issue. No output.

    I’m open to any additional tests I can run.
    Below is what I did via ISTA+, which per my tests is stating the Alternator needs replacing.
    All other tests I could find (Battery, IBS) report back with no errors.
    All images from ISTA tests here (remove spaces for link): https:// photos. app. goo. gl/ dZuhozQG21g1LVgV6
    Vehicle Management —> Troubleshooting —> Fault Memory: 2E97
    Vehicle Management —> Troubleshooting —> Function Structure —. Voltage Supply: I ran every test under here. Only error was «replace alternator».

    So, returning this second TYC Alternator from Rock Auto. Going with a different manufacturer, likely vendor too.
    I took pictures of the box when I received the Alternator. It was beat to crap. Punctured everywhere. No padding beyond the box. Presumably this also affected the TYC life.
    Outside of additional diagnostics I could run, I have to think that these ‘new’ TYC Alternators with lifetime warranty are trash… at least combined with RockAuto shipping.
    Shipping (remove spaces for link): https:// photos. app. goo. gl/ EWtM79ixxU5qU9pD9

    I fully respect a new Alternator from the Dealer would provide the best probable results. ($1000~ CAD)
    Still, as my labor is free and the parts are not, I’m looking at ACDELCO (OEM) or BOSCH (OE), both re-manufactured. ($377 — $574 CAD)
    Open to experiences of users with ACDELCO. I believe the name to be decent. I’m just looking for another 5 years, not 12 that I got out of the original.

    Last edited by Codes2; 05-28-2020 at 01:13 PM.

    ---

17. Actually happening…

    As the TYC/RockAuto Warranty only applies to Replacements and NOT a Refund… I’m going to test a 3rd new unit.

    I was going to order (did actually, then cancelled, due to above) a Re-Manufactured OE Bosch.
    If a 3rd TYC fails within a year, I’ll take the next step to Bosch.

    If there are additional troubleshooting steps anyone can think of, I’m totally game.
    I’m seeing no indication of other issue. Cables are clean, solid. Battery shows 12.4+ the next morning after being unlocked with trunk light on. No voltage fluctuations (beyond the small allowable window). All instruments and such work well. Alternator doesn’t get wet or dirty. ISTA+ isn’t showing me any other issue, per the tests I can think of to run.

    Oh the DIY fun…

    ** EDIT ** When I do the Alternator Load Test (when it was working) it reports everything is OK. It does blower motor and other power loads during test. Always reported correct draw, on and off load. (no observable short or unexpected load)

    Last edited by Codes2; 05-28-2020 at 01:23 PM.

    ---

18. RockAuto was responsive to my plight.
    While TYC only offers Warranty Replacement, RockAuto is providing me a full refund.
    I ordered their Bosch from them. I received it in double boxes. Better than the TYC, but not great, just OK. (no box damage this time)

    It’s installed. Car is running well. No OBD codes or ISTA+ related codes. (as always, I pre-top up the battery)

    There are slight differences apparent between the TYC (OEM) and Bosch (OE). (+12 stud and bolt, fitment, etc)
    The most obvious of which, the Bosch slid right into place with 0 resistance. I only removed the front intake filter.
    Wiggling it, I speculate there is 1/1000 play… can’t feel it wiggle, but it slides in with no force. Bolting it in place it will be 100% secure.
    Thirty seconds to slide it into place, literally. (after my earlier (posted above) modifications allowing it to slide from the rear, forward — mod circled below in blue)

    The TYC Alternator Chassis appears to be a few thousandths of an inch too large, making it ever so tight to wedge into place.
    Specifically the ‘pinched’ part, circles in green below.

    So far, so good. Commuting with the car. Parked it sits at 14.3~, driving it averages 13.8~. Turning on/off all accessories (seat heaters, blower, lights, defroster) the voltage is unaffected.

    6-3-2020 1-17-36 PM.png

    Last edited by Codes2; 06-03-2020 at 01:29 PM.

    ---

19. Just a bump for Bosch Remanned Alternators.

    The remanufactured Bosch Alternator is still crushing it. Voltage averages 13.8. If it fluctuates: Low is 13.7, high is 14.1.

    The battery is always at a great level when I return to the car after it being parked for 3 days.
    That said, and while my CEL doesn’t come on, I do get the code 2DED (Power management, standby current control).
    I’ll dig into this soon (ISTA+), but it’s low priority for me since the battery is always at the 12.6vdc after sitting for 3 days.
    (no new peripherals have been installed. car locks and appears to fully shut down without issue.)

    ---

20. Originally Posted by Codes2
    

    Just a bump for Bosch Remanned Alternators.

    The remanufactured Bosch Alternator is still crushing it. Voltage averages 13.8. If it fluctuates: Low is 13.7, high is 14.1.

    The battery is always at a great level when I return to the car after it being parked for 3 days.
    That said, and while my CEL doesn’t come on, I do get the code 2DED (Power management, standby current control).
    I’ll dig into this soon (ISTA+), but it’s low priority for me since the battery is always at the 12.6vdc after sitting for 3 days.
    (no new peripherals have been installed. car locks and appears to fully shut down without issue.)

    I see you have been much more active here. Great job on posting with all of your troubleshooting. Believe me your posts about your findings are very valuable. I’m glad you’re on the up side right now. Hopefully that is the end of it. I’ve owned a lot of cars throughout my life and even though I do almost all of my own repairs electrical problems can be very complicated and sometimes we just have to leave it for the pros to thoroughly troubleshoot the whole car. About 30 years ago I had a Ford that was going though alternators like every other. I was so frustrated that I was getting so many bad alternators from the auto parts stores and at the end when I went to a electric specialist they pinpointed where the problem was. I had a short in the system. An aftermarket radio that I had installed just two simple wires that were backwards was killing alternators. He reran the wires correctly and rebuilt the last alternator that It killed and I was out of there trouble free the rest of that cars life. If you have ever added anything aftermarket to your car consider them a potential culprit. You might even have it wired right and the problem could be internal.

    Great mod on that AC/Alternator bracket. That should make all these re-installations much easier. From my research I’m finding there is variations in the way the alternator is mounted in these cars. The year and model do play a role. Some of these manuals are even wrong. I have a March built 2007 335i E90 and I found that the AC compressor and the Alternator share a bracket. The key is to break that bracket loose so that you can get the slight clearance necessary to slide the alternator out without the need to remove the Oil Filter Housing or the Intake Manifold. In order to remove that bracket the AC compressor has to at least be moved/tilted about an inch. There are 3 13mm bolts that have to be removed in order to do that and one of those bolts is under the front of the compressor and not visible from the top. It can however been seen barely from the bottom. Once the 3 bolts are removed and the AC compressor moved an inch you have access to that bracket and there are 3 bolts that hold that. The 3 bracket bolts don’t need to be removed they just need to be loosened so that you can just get the clearance necessary to slide the alternator out. you obviously know this already as you have modified the bracket so that the bracket doesn’t need to be loosened every time you want to remove and install the alternator. A mod that probably saves about 25min every time you reinstalled another alternator. I bet you can install a E90 alternator faster that a BMW master tech now. lol! anyways just my 2 cents for those in need.

    I don’t think I would trust any other brand other than OE Bosch for this job. Not to mention the slight size difference doesn’t help at all. I ordered mine from FCP. I also ordered a regulator from them. At the end I found that my original alternator was fine so I just replaced the regulator. The regulator is the updated part number F00M346088 that others have reported throws a E297 code and sure enough it gives me the same code as well even after clearing it it just comes back. However, the alternator is running fine and is always in the correct voltage range. Since others have reported the E297 code not really impairing anything I’m not going to sweat it too much. Anyways Code keep us posted . Thanks!

    Last edited by salzamani; 07-09-2020 at 11:59 AM.

    ---

21. Hmm .. An interesting problem, considering the fact that you are only supplying original parts, everything should be fine. On average, my car’s power consumption is no more than 14 vdc. I suspect you may have an error in the control box or short-circuit a connection somewhere causing more power to be consumed. Try to check your generator again and maybe the problem lies in it. Whenever I have questions like this, I try to reach out to professionals in the field such as thetoolscout.com. When I was looking for a good generator for my camper, this is where I found help.

    Last edited by Villemms; 01-24-2021 at 03:37 PM.

    ---

Поломка электрических приборов в автомобилях относится к категории самых частых. Неполадки могут выражаться в некорректной работе генератора, аккумулятора, проблемами с фарами, зажиганием и другими системами авто, которые работают от электрического тока. И одни и те же поломки характерны для разных машин. Большой разницы нет, какой у вас автомобиль. Генератор БМВ Х5 Е53

может выйти из строя точно так же, как генератор от «Москвича». Схемы работы этого устройства на различных моделях практически идентичные.

Чтобы понять причину поломки генератора, необходимо хотя бы поверхностно понимать то, как он функционирует в автомобиле. Практически все современные модели машин оборудованы преобразователем тока — диодным мостом. Его функция заключается в том, чтобы переводить потоки переменного тока в постоянные. Для чего это нужно? Все дело в том, что электрические приборы в автомобиле работают именно от постоянного тока.

Что касается диапазона напряжения, в котором работают автомобильные генераторы, то он составляет 13,8 — 14,7. Все приборы рассчитаны именно на эти вольтажи, поэтому потенциальные перегрузки и могут стать причиной поломки. Разумеется, что при разной скорости автомобиля, выработка тока генератора будет отличаться. Но в приборе есть специальное реле, которое помогает решить эту проблему. Оно регулирует ток и выступает в роли стабилизатора. Тот же генератор на Х5 Е53 ещё оснащен интегральным регулятором напряжения. Этот компонент устанавливается почти во всех современных авто.

Из написанного выше можно понять, что генератор — достаточно сложный прибор. Поэтому неудивительно, что он частенько ломается. Основная природа поломок этого электрического оборудования связана с принципом его работы. Генератор — это электромеханический прибор, поэтому сразу можно определить два основных типа неполадок — механические и электрические. Рассмотрим детальнее конкретные случаи неисправностей.

Если речь идет об электрических неполадках, то это выражается в обрывах генераторных обмоток, поломке регуляторов и выпрямителя, износе отдельных соединений. Верный признак поломки «электрического» характера — это необычные звуки ротора и автогенератора в целом, а также возникновение замыканий и некорректная работа фар и других систем.

Частенько небольшая проблема в других областях авто становится причиной серьезных поломок генератора. Например, поврежденный контакт предохранителя, который подходит к прибору, сразу негативно сказывается на его работе. Точно так же, неисправные контакты в области замка зажигания ведут к неполадкам автогенератора.

Вот перечень основных признаков, которые указывают на неисправность данного электрического прибора:

• После заведения двигателя индикатор разрядки автомобильного аккумулятора начинает мигать, а потом ярко гореть.
• Перегруза аккумулятора, которую ещё именуют выкипанием.
• Изменение интенсивности света фар автомобиля. Они начинают светить тусклее.
• Тихий сигнал авто.
• Яркость фар зависит от скорости движения.
• Наличие посторонних звуков.
• Нестабильная работа внутренних электрических приборов.

А что же собственно становится причиной поломки генератора и его деталей? Как бы это банально не звучало, но главные враги этого автомобильного прибора — это коррозия и механический износ. Подшипники и другие металлические детали могут со временем ржаветь. А некоторые компоненты просто начинают крошиться от износа. Ведь любая деталь имеет свой срок эксплуатации. И даже в самой современной машине, генератор со временем износится.

Очень важно уметь диагностировать неполадки электромеханической системы автомобиля ещё на начальных этапах. Проверять генератор рекомендуется строго в автомобильном сервисе либо с использованием специализированного оборудования. Лучше не экспериментировать с отключением клемм аккумулятора, как любят делать некоторые автомобилисты. На автосервисах используются специальные стенды, на которых измеряют напряжение в электрической системе автомобиля. Снимаются два показателя — при заглушенном и рабочем моторе. В первом случае показатель напряжения должен находиться в районе 12 вольт. Во втором — в диапазоне 13,8-14,7 В, который считается стандартным. Если измеренный показатель будет выше необходимого, то сломано регуляторное реле, а если меньше, то существуют проблемы с цепями и контактами.

Фотокаталог запчастей БМВ Х5 Е53: