Вчера выскочила ошибка заряда аккумулятора, что, конечно же, не обрадовало. Благо машина была не далеко от дома. После быстрого диагностирования стало понятно, что доехал я на одном аккумуляторе :). Дальше диагностировать не стал, так как аккумулятор был подсевшим и необходимо было его подзарядить.
Основная версия возможной кончины генератора это течь масла с верхней крышки грм. Так же созвонился с парой мастеров, и они подтвердили мои опасения. Возможно, что само тело, еще живое, а вот регулятор уже неработоспособен, это сложно определить не снимая генератор. Для себя решил все же заказать новый генератор, а уже после заниматься восстановлением старого. Возможно, потом продам его на местном рынке :). Пока на данном этапе все. Если у кого есть дельные советы, я всегда рад их выслушать.
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Подскажите кто знает что то не найду расщифровку ошибки, ремонтировал гену в мае а теперь вылезла такая ошибка и не стирается
Вроде никаких косяков не замечаю все квк обычно с машинойОдиссей помогай брачо!))) Кто знает срочно) просто если это гарантийный случай буду в сервисе настаивать на переделке
Uppppppppppppo
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Расшифровка ошибки в Rheingold: DME: генератор.
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Ошибка генератора!
Еле сам Гена, ремни, или регулятор на Гене!
Кратко: с напряжением проблемы!!!!!
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Поломка электрических приборов в автомобилях относится к категории самых частых. Неполадки могут выражаться в некорректной работе генератора, аккумулятора, проблемами с фарами, зажиганием и другими системами авто, которые работают от электрического тока. И одни и те же поломки характерны для разных машин. Большой разницы нет, какой у вас автомобиль. Генератор БМВ Х5 Е53
может выйти из строя точно так же, как генератор от «Москвича». Схемы работы этого устройства на различных моделях практически идентичные.
Чтобы понять причину поломки генератора, необходимо хотя бы поверхностно понимать то, как он функционирует в автомобиле. Практически все современные модели машин оборудованы преобразователем тока — диодным мостом. Его функция заключается в том, чтобы переводить потоки переменного тока в постоянные. Для чего это нужно? Все дело в том, что электрические приборы в автомобиле работают именно от постоянного тока.
Что касается диапазона напряжения, в котором работают автомобильные генераторы, то он составляет 13,8 — 14,7. Все приборы рассчитаны именно на эти вольтажи, поэтому потенциальные перегрузки и могут стать причиной поломки. Разумеется, что при разной скорости автомобиля, выработка тока генератора будет отличаться. Но в приборе есть специальное реле, которое помогает решить эту проблему. Оно регулирует ток и выступает в роли стабилизатора. Тот же генератор на Х5 Е53 ещё оснащен интегральным регулятором напряжения. Этот компонент устанавливается почти во всех современных авто.
Из написанного выше можно понять, что генератор — достаточно сложный прибор. Поэтому неудивительно, что он частенько ломается. Основная природа поломок этого электрического оборудования связана с принципом его работы. Генератор — это электромеханический прибор, поэтому сразу можно определить два основных типа неполадок — механические и электрические. Рассмотрим детальнее конкретные случаи неисправностей.
Если речь идет об электрических неполадках, то это выражается в обрывах генераторных обмоток, поломке регуляторов и выпрямителя, износе отдельных соединений. Верный признак поломки «электрического» характера — это необычные звуки ротора и автогенератора в целом, а также возникновение замыканий и некорректная работа фар и других систем.
Частенько небольшая проблема в других областях авто становится причиной серьезных поломок генератора. Например, поврежденный контакт предохранителя, который подходит к прибору, сразу негативно сказывается на его работе. Точно так же, неисправные контакты в области замка зажигания ведут к неполадкам автогенератора.
Вот перечень основных признаков, которые указывают на неисправность данного электрического прибора:
- После заведения двигателя индикатор разрядки автомобильного аккумулятора начинает мигать, а потом ярко гореть.
- Перегруза аккумулятора, которую ещё именуют выкипанием.
- Изменение интенсивности света фар автомобиля. Они начинают светить тусклее.
- Тихий сигнал авто.
- Яркость фар зависит от скорости движения.
- Наличие посторонних звуков.
- Нестабильная работа внутренних электрических приборов.
А что же собственно становится причиной поломки генератора и его деталей? Как бы это банально не звучало, но главные враги этого автомобильного прибора — это коррозия и механический износ. Подшипники и другие металлические детали могут со временем ржаветь. А некоторые компоненты просто начинают крошиться от износа. Ведь любая деталь имеет свой срок эксплуатации. И даже в самой современной машине, генератор со временем износится.
Очень важно уметь диагностировать неполадки электромеханической системы автомобиля ещё на начальных этапах. Проверять генератор рекомендуется строго в автомобильном сервисе либо с использованием специализированного оборудования. Лучше не экспериментировать с отключением клемм аккумулятора, как любят делать некоторые автомобилисты. На автосервисах используются специальные стенды, на которых измеряют напряжение в электрической системе автомобиля. Снимаются два показателя — при заглушенном и рабочем моторе. В первом случае показатель напряжения должен находиться в районе 12 вольт. Во втором — в диапазоне 13,8-14,7 В, который считается стандартным. Если измеренный показатель будет выше необходимого, то сломано регуляторное реле, а если меньше, то существуют проблемы с цепями и контактами.
Фотокаталог запчастей БМВ Х5 Е53:
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01-18-2019, 09:48 PM
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#1 |
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Robot Drives: 2006 330i, 2007 E93 335i Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Souhtrne Califniora |
2E97 Alterntor Issue When I started my car this morning I got a red battery warning on the center display along with a «Charging system malfunction» message on my iDrive display. I was about to move my kids to my wife’s car but the warning went away after a moment so I kept them in the car and drove them to school. I drove 10 minutes without issue, shut the car off to walk my kids into school, restarted the car and drove home. As soon as I pulled in my driveway the red battery icon appeared again along with the same charging malfunction indicator. I immediately hooked up my laptop and there’s a 2E97 code set in DME/DDE, indicating an alternator problem. I looked at the freeze frame data in INPA and it indicates only 11.88V were measured. I haven’t begun much diagnostic work yet because I’ve been busy today, but I wanted to check and see if there’s anything specific I should be looking at. Is it just as simple as a bad/failed alternator? As far as I can tell it’s the original alternator with 225K miles on it, and if true I wouldn’t be surprised that it failed. I can’t find any service records from the past ownership (have some but not all records) indicating any alternator replacement and I can see a BMW logo on the side of the alternator. Coincidentally it’s been raining pretty heavily all week (and I haven’t replaced my under tray yet!). Another coincidence is just last night I hit a nasty pothole that opened up because of all this rain. I’m not sure if that’s related but it’s odd that I got the alternator error right after these events. I checked the battery tray and there are no puddles or any other signs of water. The battery terminals are perfectly clean with no corrosion. Visually the alternator looks fine, the power wire is still attached solidly and has no corrosion. Where’s the engine ground cable located? I want to check that next. I’m going to measure voltage while running with a multimeter, and then tomorrow I am planning to remove the alternator and battery and get them tested at my local auto parts store. |
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01-18-2019, 11:12 PM
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#2 |
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Is it the shoes!?
Drives: (Sold) 2011 E92 335i ZMP 6MT Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: USA |
The voltage regulator is usually a good start since it’s cheap(er) than a full rebuilt alternator. Alternators themselves are fairly robust, but they can fail. |
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01-19-2019, 01:07 AM
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#3 |
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Brigadier General Drives: 2007 328xi E91 Join Date: May 2017 Location: Fairfax Co, VA |
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowrydr310 When I started my car this morning I got a red battery warning on the center display along with a «Charging system malfunction» message on my iDrive display…I immediately hooked up my laptop and there’s a 2E97 code set in DME/DDE, indicating an alternator problem. I looked at the freeze frame data in INPA and it indicates only 11.88V were measured. What Scan Tool or Software did you use to read the «2E97» code? There are 4 different P-codes associated with that BMW FC, so if your scan tool/ software did NOT provide a definition, it’s not helping other than you have an undefined issue with the alternator. INPA provides a definition (albeit in German, but Google-translatable ;-), and it also displays the corresponding P-code which is helpful in such situations. Here are the 4 possible codes with Definitions per Bentley: I would start by checking to see that the BSD bus control wire is firmly attached to the Alternator at the rear Voltage Regulator cover. If your scan tool can read Parameters (Live Data) and you can read actual system voltage with the engine running, you can see if you get a reading in the range of 13.5V to 14.8V with motor running, or you can use Hidden Menu 9.00 to do that per this procedure: George
Last edited by gbalthrop; 07-28-2020 at 02:40 PM..
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01-19-2019, 06:11 AM
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#4 |
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Lieutenant General
Drives: E90 & Z4 Coupe Join Date: May 2012 Location: MARLAND |
I’m pretty sure 2E97 is the code I got when my alternator died at 314,000 miles; I’ll have to check my book in the car to be sure. My car came up with the red battery light on my way to work. I stopped and scanned the ECU with my Schawben BMW scan tool, which I keep in the car. I restarted and the trouble light was not lit, so I thought it was just a battery issue. The light came back on in about a mile. I repeated that event one more time. The light came back on, I was about 25 miles from home. It was December, cold and raining (heat, lights and wipers). I made it back home and the engine died in the driveway. It wouldn’t restart because the trip home consumed the energy in the battery. Not being fancy, about it, I figured the alternator at 314,000 miles went tits up, so I replaced it with a BMW OE unit. Not a wink of trouble since then. The battery went about anther year until it wouldn’t hold a charge ample enough to start the engine after just a few days sitting. It was over 7 years old at that point. I too debated whether to check the voltage regulator, etc., but since it takes enough time pull the alternator, I just took a WTF attitude and decided not chasing the voltage regulator was a better use of my time. My 2 cents. __________________ A manual transmission can be set to «comfort», «sport», and «track» modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn’t need «modes», modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it’s a manual transmission. «Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission.»
Last edited by Efthreeoh; 01-19-2019 at 12:53 PM..
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01-19-2019, 08:15 AM
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#5 |
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Lieutenant
Drives: 2010 535ix, 2008, 2007 335i Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Magnolia, TX |
Our335i did the same thing and was only charging a little over 10 volts. Since you have to take half of the engine off (or it sure seemed like it)I went ahead and just replaced the whole alternator too. 6 months later no issues. |
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01-19-2019, 12:21 PM
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#6 |
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Colonel Drives: 325XI Join Date: May 2010 Location: Earth |
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowrydr310 As far as I can tell it’s the original alternator with 225K miles on it, and if true I wouldn’t be surprised that it failed. At that mileage alternator slip rings will be worn out in addition to the brushes. With regulator replacement you get new brushes. But new slip rings require rebuild of the alternator since they are on the shaft. |
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01-19-2019, 12:51 PM
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#7 |
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Lieutenant General
Drives: E90 & Z4 Coupe Join Date: May 2012 Location: MARLAND |
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhaseP At that mileage alternator slip rings will be worn out in addition to the brushes. With regulator replacement you get new brushes. But new slip rings require rebuild of the alternator since they are on the shaft. The way I looked at it was the alternator lives in a very harsh environment including heat, dirt, water, and oil deposits. After several hundred thousand miles, while it may still be functioning, replacing just a failed voltage regulator doesn’t reduce the wear and tear the rest of the alternator has on it. For the time investment to replace the voltage regulator, or remove the alternator for testing, it makes sense to spend a few hundred dollars more and just refresh the unit in its entirety. __________________ A manual transmission can be set to «comfort», «sport», and «track» modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn’t need «modes», modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it’s a manual transmission. «Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission.» |
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01-20-2019, 12:39 PM
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#8 |
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Robot Drives: 2006 330i, 2007 E93 335i Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Souhtrne Califniora |
I pulled the battery and learned that it’s 8 years old! Still tested ok with a load test so I’ll keep using it for now but I’m prepared to buy a new one very soon. I removed the alternator and disassembeled it and found that one of the brushes is shot, not making contact with the slip ring. The corresponding slip ring is also worn. I could still polish it and get away just replacing the brushes, however there is some lateral play in the bearing so they will need to be replaced. I ordered a cheapo remanufactured alternator that should be here this week ($120, not expecting top quality). I’ll use that for now but I plan to rebuild my Valeo unit and swap it out once it’s ready. Rock Auto lists a Denso alternator for my car but like everything else in their catalog parts fitment is a mess for the 2006 325i E90 since they often list parts for the 2006 325Ci which is an E46. I liked the idea of getting a Denso replacement, but that is for the E46 so I went with something else. |
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01-21-2019, 10:42 PM
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#10 |
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Robot Drives: 2006 330i, 2007 E93 335i Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Souhtrne Califniora |
The 06 325 OEM is a 180 amp Valeo unit. I bought new bearings, brushes, and slip rings for around $25 and I’m rebuilding it myself. I already disassembled it and cleaned it, ready to rebuild once the parts arrive. It’s too good to return for a $20 core charge. It was pretty obvious that the worn brushes were the issue. I found a Valeo branded voltage regulator for $40 but I’m going to see if the original one still works before replacing it. |
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01-22-2019, 08:10 PM
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#11 |
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Colonel Drives: 325XI Join Date: May 2010 Location: Earth |
I have a 180A Valeo too, 06 325XI. My slip rings and brushes died early once they had been dosed with engine oil from due to my mistake with oil filter cap. I rebuild it at that time, by a kit from Ebay. And following these videos: The only problem a few years later one of replacement brushes died. I think it was too soft. Bought new voltage regulator that comes with original brushed, still good. |
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07-27-2020, 10:44 PM
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#12 |
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Captain
Drives: 2008 335i Convertible 2007 335 Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: USA |
I hate to revive an old thread but I have a 1 year old battery and was getting 2E97 error code occasionally. So far I replaced the brushes and regulator and still got the code. Since then I have replaced the entire alternator with the proper one and even returned the first one to get one with the proper one way clutch pulley. I did all this for nothing. I STILL GET 2E97 generator errors very often. Definitely after a few WOT pulls I will find that code in my JB4. Any idea what could cause it? I have freshened up the old alternator, then swapped in a whole new alternator and the only thing I have accomplished is I now have a shinier alternator. |
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07-28-2020, 02:47 PM
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#13 |
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Brigadier General Drives: 2007 328xi E91 Join Date: May 2017 Location: Fairfax Co, VA |
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonEQuest … was getting 2E97 error code occasionally. So far I replaced the brushes and regulator and still got the code. Since then I have replaced the entire alternator with the proper one and even returned the first one to get one with the proper one way clutch pulley. I did all this for nothing. I STILL GET 2E97 generator errors very often… What Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software do you have available? What DEFINITION of that code is provided by the Tool? Do you have any simple scan tool that can read P-codes? See the discussion in Post #3 above in this thread. There are 4 different possible definitions (and separate P-codes) for «2E97» Hex-code. What make, Model & Part# are the OLD alternator you replaced, AND the new Alternator you replaced it with? What was the Part# of the Voltage Regulator you installed as a replacement? Did your vehicle come from factory with Bosch 180 Amp Alternator? Were Voltage Regulator & Replacement Alternator same spec? NONE of the four possible definitions for 2E97 suggest a Voltage issue, but have you tried observing System Voltage as you drive using Hidden Menu 9.00 (also described in Post #3)? Does any warning light appear on Instrument Cluster (Yellow or Red Battery)? Any OTHER Fault Codes than 2E97? May be a «JB4 Thing» or some other issue on the BSD Bus, which includes the IBS, Coolant Pump & OZS, all wired to the DME along with Alternator. George |
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08-06-2020, 10:18 PM
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#14 |
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Major
Drives: 2009 335i xDrive Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Newport MI |
I’ve always has low charging voltage. Low 13s, occasionally high 12s in summer heat. In winter it will get above 14. Unsure why temp makes a difference. I’ve never replaced the battery, alternator or any part of the charging system. Car has always worked fine. Was doing A lot of work and maintenance to the car and decided I’ll use a new regulator and since everything works fine, that’ll probably help my seemingly low voltage issue. Anyway, stock one was wore our, brushes almost completely gone. New one goes in. And. Same state of charge. No change. Only difference now, I get a ‘2e97 DME; Generator’. Charges ‘fine’ same as before and have driven 250 miles with this code. No problems. What the heck does it need? Was thinking I’d start with a battery since it’s pretty old as is. But still weird. Attached Images
__________________ 2009 335i xDrive AT / 177k+ miles |
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08-06-2020, 10:24 PM
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#15 |
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Colonel
Drives: 09 E92 335i Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Northern California |
Quote:
Originally Posted by type-dRew I’ve always has low charging voltage. Low 13s, occasionally high 12s in summer heat. In winter it will get above 14. Unsure why temp makes a difference. I’ve never replaced the battery, alternator or any part of the charging system. Car has always worked fine. Was doing A lot of work and maintenance to the car and decided I’ll use a new regulator and since everything works fine, that’ll probably help my seemingly low voltage issue. Anyway, stock one was wore our, brushes almost completely gone. New one goes in. And. Same state of charge. No change. Only difference now, I get a ‘2e97 DME; Generator’. Charges ‘fine’ same as before and have driven 250 miles with this code. No problems. What the heck does it need? Was thinking I’d start with a battery since it’s pretty old as is. But still weird. The new regulators seem to cause this code(atleast for the people that only had this code pop up after VR replacement). Multiple people(me included) that have changed theirs out with the newer version that FCPeuro sells(there’s even a review/comment on their site about it) all seem to get the 2E97 code afterwards. I ended up getting a reman’d Bosch and the code went away after throwing in a new alt. I did some searching and I guess there was a software update for the DME because of this issue, seems the DME was being too sensitive with the readings from the voltage reg or something. I don’t know for sure, just what someone stated on here. |
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08-06-2020, 10:31 PM
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#16 |
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Major
Drives: 2009 335i xDrive Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Newport MI |
Quote:
Originally Posted by IllSic_Design Quote:
Originally Posted by type-dRew I’ve always has low charging voltage. Low 13s, occasionally high 12s in summer heat. In winter it will get above 14. Unsure why temp makes a difference. I’ve never replaced the battery, alternator or any part of the charging system. Car has always worked fine. Was doing A lot of work and maintenance to the car and decided I’ll use a new regulator and since everything works fine, that’ll probably help my seemingly low voltage issue. Anyway, stock one was wore our, brushes almost completely gone. New one goes in. And. Same state of charge. No change. Only difference now, I get a ‘2e97 DME; Generator’. Charges ‘fine’ same as before and have driven 250 miles with this code. No problems. What the heck does it need? Was thinking I’d start with a battery since it’s pretty old as is. But still weird. The new regulators seem to cause this code(atleast for the people that only had this code pop up after VR replacement). Multiple people(me included) that have changed theirs out with the newer version that FCPeuro sells(there’s even a review/comment on their site about it) all seem to get the 2E97 code afterwards. I ended up getting a reman’d Bosch and the code went away after throwing in a new alt. I did some searching and I guess there was a software update for the DME because of this issue, seems the DME was being too sensitive with the readings from the voltage reg or something. I don’t know for sure, just what someone stated on here. I have the number listed on their website shown as a superseded number that came out and the new number that they sell here Wish I would have combed through the reviews first. But it feels dumb to put the old one back in. Maybe I can find a nos unit with my part number somewhere. I’d rather not replace a working alternator just to kill a code that isn’t causing problems, or even a cel at this point Attached Images
__________________ 2009 335i xDrive AT / 177k+ miles |
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08-06-2020, 10:38 PM
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#17 |
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Colonel
Drives: 09 E92 335i Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Northern California |
Yeah my OE VR was the same part number, and I agree about buying a new alt. It’s costly, I only did it because I was already having charging/battery issues so I didn’t want to even worry about that code or the Alt. |
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02-18-2021, 12:44 AM
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#18 |
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Brigadier General
Drives: 335 e90 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Los Angeles |
Quote:
Originally Posted by type-dRew I have the number listed on their website shown as a superseded number that came out and the new number that they sell here Wish I would have combed through the reviews first. But it feels dumb to put the old one back in. Maybe I can find a nos unit with my part number somewhere. I’d rather not replace a working alternator just to kill a code that isn’t causing problems, or even a cel at this point I just did this same VR job on my n54. I had the original VR that seemed like one brush was longer than the other. The original part numbers for the new and the old were the exact same as the one in your pictures. I was getting the 2e97 before and after the VR replacement with the new unit. I got my new part from FCPEuro about a year ago but had no time to install it till just now. My issue in INPA was saying: I have also been getting 2DED codes for a long while P160F but not sure if they are relate? The car does charge and drive just fine. the Kombi shows charging voltage of about 13.8v-14.3v while driving and I have an AGM coded/registered battery since 2014 |
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Hello,
Issue
Since last fall (Fall 2019), the code 2E97 (Generator) has been on my dash.History
I had installed a new Alternator with Voltage Regulator and Clutch Pulley approx Jan of 2019.
This was not due to voltage issues, but rather a bad Clutch Pulley and it I’m pretty sure the Alternator was original, so replaced it all.
I experienced no issues until Fall of 2019, just days before garaging my car for winter (when I tend to do my maintenance).
I had the battery tested in the Fall of 2019 and it reported back as bad and not actually fully charging.
I bought a new one from a BMW dealer and coded it to the car.
This code (2E97) persisted.
The battery voltage with car running was approx 15.5~ vdc (I don’t recall as accurately as I did at the time, but it was high, not low — I was expecting around 14.4vdc)
I bought a new Bosch Voltage Regulator and get the identical code persisting.
If I clear the code, it pops back right away.Worth Noting
I did get 2E8B (Intelligent battery sensor, signal) code after changing the battery.
After clearing the code, it stays away.
If I wiggle the negative cable (or remove for maintenance) the code returns. Then I clear and it stays away again.What could be the source of the issue?
BMW battery is registered. It tests OK and takes a charge (externally) well.
Code 2E97 reports immediately after clearing (like 2 seconds), so issue must be present.
Battery is charging at approx 15.5-15.9 vdc, just the same after installing another new Bosch VR.Can it be Alternator? Even though my dvm shows continuous charge? (albeit, a higher voltage than I expected)
Could it be the IBS, reporting wonky info to the DME, resulting in invalid charging voltages to the battery?Many thanks for any and all feedback!
I bought INPA-D if there is anything there that may help narrow this down further. (still learning to navigate this software)
Last edited by Codes2; 04-21-2020 at 05:22 PM.
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Your alternator should not ever be charging that high! I’ve only ever seen it that high when the alternator is trashed. Occasionally I do see it close to 15v when the car has a weak or dead/nearly dead battery.
And you do get a code for the IBS, so I would definitely replace it.
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
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Originally Posted by White94RX
Your alternator should not ever be charging that high! I’ve only ever seen it that high when the alternator is trashed. Occasionally I do see it close to 15v when the car has a weak or dead/nearly dead battery.
And you do get a code for the IBS, so I would definitely replace it.
Thanks White94RX!
I had wondered if there could be another reason for the higher voltage. Changing the VR had zero affect.
* I’ll order an IBS today.
* Should I wait on results from replacement IBS, or just get the Alternator replacement underway?I seriously appreciate your reading and response.
** EDIT ** I was reading again. Given you have only seen it that high when it was the Alternator, I’ll start processing that now. Thanks!!
Last edited by Codes2; 04-22-2020 at 09:49 AM.
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I have no experience with INPA, only ISTA. Are they similar? Does INPA have test plans like ISTA? You need to run the energy diagnosis test plan to know the real health of the battery.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
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If your reading voltage with a multimeter, try on another car to determine if the meter reads high. What does the battery read after car sits overnight, with engine off? Should be about 12.5 volts.
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Thanks both.
ISTA-D, sorry.
As to voltage, the car report, my meter and my charger all agree. When on a standard charger and sitting overnight it is in the 12.5~ range.
This battery is now new from the dealer though, so likely good.
And codes are the same as when the prior battery was installed.I’m open to running a diagnostic.
Just setting ISTA-D back up with legit instance.
Also, not sure where to find it! LolNote sure if this is worth noting, but the last battery had an AH @ 20 Hours of 90, while this new one is 92.
It seems I need ISTA-P to change this number, while just ISTA-D to reset it… which is what I did for the meantime.
I have a hard time picturing 2% reserve having the affect I’m seeing now, particularly because I had the same code with the last battery before I swapped it out.
Very open to input.
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The 90-92 amp hour difference is nothing to be concerned about.
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
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Thanks White94RX. That finally puts my mind at rest about needing ISTA-P to change the Ah value. I will put aside that effort.
The only ‘battery test’ I found was one that showed the last 32(?) charge cycles and results.
This is effectively a historical log of performance.Is there an Active Test i can perform with ISTA-D? I searched, but didn’t locate.
Thanks!
Last edited by Codes2; 04-23-2020 at 10:00 AM.
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We had a e60 say 2007 that other shops had replaced the alternator like 3 times turned out the sensor on the negative battery cable was not working correctly at all and allowing higher charging voltage than normal. Replace it fixed
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Thanks jclausen. I shall be hoping for the same for my car.
The IBS should be here by the end of this month.
I’ll test and post results following.If still an issue, on to the Alternator.
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In ISTA, Vehicle management tab, then troubleshooting tab, then function structure, body, voltage supply, «energy diagnosis». Run that test plan. Lots of good info in there, including battery charge status, unauthorized wakeups, etc, etc.
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
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** EDIT ** White94RX — Thanks for the direction. I ran every test I could find. Only the below one «incorrect type of alternator» stood out.
First, thanks for the feedback so far!
I know I can be wordy… so main points in bold…
I received the new IBS cable, only to find out that the connectors are different. Subsequently I ordered the adapter. I just installed both and tested.
— The voltage at the battery, while running is still 15.2 vdc (high).
— Additionally, the ‘2E97 Generator’ code returns within 30 seconds of being cleared.So, with a new Battery and now a new IBS, I’m back to looking at my 1 year old Alternator.
Interesting (but maybe less so to those familiar with ISTA+), under one test, it states «An incorrect type of alternator has been installed in this vehicle: Install the correct alternator.» (ABL-DIT-B1214_TVD-GEN-2 — Alternator — V.27)
That said, I just verified what I had bought last year and it’s PN matches that of RealOEM (links below — PN12317558220)
RealOEM: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho…diagId=12_1198
RockAuto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo…=1441663&jsn=1This alternator worked well (by all appearances, with no codes) until abruptly last fall, the day before I stored it for the winter.
Is this actually the wrong Alternator?
Or has it just ‘died’ and needs to be replaced?
(I’m sure I’m buying a new one now… but nervous to simply buy based on PN if this is actually ‘incorrect’)** EDIT ** This is under Lifetime Warranty. So if this is part is in-fact ‘correct’, I’ll get a WR. If I’m advised it is NOT, then I will order something else.
Last edited by Codes2; 05-06-2020 at 05:44 PM.
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Based on the Part Numbers, and no personal knowledge beyond this, I’ve proceeded with the WR.
Even though ISTA+ states «An incorrect type of alternator has been installed in this vehicle: Install the correct alternator.«I should have the replacement Alternator on Tuesday and plan to install Wednesday, weather permitting.
We’ll see what the Voltage at the Battery is. Hopefully in the 14.4 vdc range and the «Generator» (2E97) clears.
Out of curiosity, I’ll also check if ISTA+ continues to report «…incorrect type of alternator…». (including the exact steps to that report)Thanks all!
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I installed the WR alternator.
No more 2E97 (Generator) code.
Charging voltage is hovers in the 14.4~ range quite well.
Further, with the new Alternator, in ISTA+ I no longer find any message stating «An incorrect type of alternator has been installed in this vehicle: Install the correct alternator.»I’ve driven the car for days now. (since Tues of last week)
Periodically I get the code — 2DED Power management, standby current control. (hasn’t lit up the CEL, just pops up in the background)
I have had it pop up after just fueling or after a few days of intermittent use.
I see no drain in the battery overnight. I’ll monitor closer, but the car goes into full sleep after 10 mins, no lights, no comfort access interruptions.
I’ve run the ISTA+ power diagnostic. However, I have played so much with the car on stands over winter, put the charger on/off, started and stopped it that the history wasn’t valid.
I cleared the history last Wednesday. We’ll see what ISTA+ states in a couple days after sitting.
I’ll also put a dvm on the battery with the leads out of the trunk, then leave it parked for a few days. I expect the full charge to remain.Note: Earlier, after installing the new IBS cable, I got the IBS code (2E8B Intelligent battery sensory, signal) once, shortly after. I suspect this just happens each time it’s disconnected. It happened on my previous IBS cable as well, but once left alone it was OK. I believe it’s save to ignore. I’ll make sure not to flex my new one in any way, unlike my original.
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Hot Tip
After installing my 3rd Alternator, and getting tired of the awkward approaches available, I modified my car per the image below.
I bagged around the area prior to grinding, then put my shop-vac hose in to pick up as fast as I ground. Worked out well.The Alternator now slides in from right to left (back to front of car), without running into the Oil Filter Housing.
I did put a very slight chamfer on the Alternator where it gets pinched on it’s way through — but very subtle, per the image.20200515_152618.jpg
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Crazy. This new Alternator stopped outputting after 5 days of clean use.
It was working great (watching Voltage as I drive) the night I shut the car off. Then the next AM I checked for codes before starting the car (monitoring for any power drain — there was none) and the same Generator code popped up. Verified this failure after starting car.
I tested with a new Bosch VR, same issue. No output.I’m open to any additional tests I can run.
Below is what I did via ISTA+, which per my tests is stating the Alternator needs replacing.
All other tests I could find (Battery, IBS) report back with no errors.
All images from ISTA tests here (remove spaces for link): https:// photos. app. goo. gl/ dZuhozQG21g1LVgV6
Vehicle Management —> Troubleshooting —> Fault Memory: 2E97
Vehicle Management —> Troubleshooting —> Function Structure —. Voltage Supply: I ran every test under here. Only error was «replace alternator».So, returning this second TYC Alternator from Rock Auto. Going with a different manufacturer, likely vendor too.
I took pictures of the box when I received the Alternator. It was beat to crap. Punctured everywhere. No padding beyond the box. Presumably this also affected the TYC life.
Outside of additional diagnostics I could run, I have to think that these ‘new’ TYC Alternators with lifetime warranty are trash… at least combined with RockAuto shipping.
Shipping (remove spaces for link): https:// photos. app. goo. gl/ EWtM79ixxU5qU9pD9I fully respect a new Alternator from the Dealer would provide the best probable results. ($1000~ CAD)
Still, as my labor is free and the parts are not, I’m looking at ACDELCO (OEM) or BOSCH (OE), both re-manufactured. ($377 — $574 CAD)
Open to experiences of users with ACDELCO. I believe the name to be decent. I’m just looking for another 5 years, not 12 that I got out of the original.Last edited by Codes2; 05-28-2020 at 01:13 PM.
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Actually happening…
As the TYC/RockAuto Warranty only applies to Replacements and NOT a Refund… I’m going to test a 3rd new unit.
I was going to order (did actually, then cancelled, due to above) a Re-Manufactured OE Bosch.
If a 3rd TYC fails within a year, I’ll take the next step to Bosch.If there are additional troubleshooting steps anyone can think of, I’m totally game.
I’m seeing no indication of other issue. Cables are clean, solid. Battery shows 12.4+ the next morning after being unlocked with trunk light on. No voltage fluctuations (beyond the small allowable window). All instruments and such work well. Alternator doesn’t get wet or dirty. ISTA+ isn’t showing me any other issue, per the tests I can think of to run.Oh the DIY fun…
** EDIT ** When I do the Alternator Load Test (when it was working) it reports everything is OK. It does blower motor and other power loads during test. Always reported correct draw, on and off load. (no observable short or unexpected load)
Last edited by Codes2; 05-28-2020 at 01:23 PM.
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RockAuto was responsive to my plight.
While TYC only offers Warranty Replacement, RockAuto is providing me a full refund.
I ordered their Bosch from them. I received it in double boxes. Better than the TYC, but not great, just OK. (no box damage this time)It’s installed. Car is running well. No OBD codes or ISTA+ related codes. (as always, I pre-top up the battery)
There are slight differences apparent between the TYC (OEM) and Bosch (OE). (+12 stud and bolt, fitment, etc)
The most obvious of which, the Bosch slid right into place with 0 resistance. I only removed the front intake filter.
Wiggling it, I speculate there is 1/1000 play… can’t feel it wiggle, but it slides in with no force. Bolting it in place it will be 100% secure.
Thirty seconds to slide it into place, literally. (after my earlier (posted above) modifications allowing it to slide from the rear, forward — mod circled below in blue)The TYC Alternator Chassis appears to be a few thousandths of an inch too large, making it ever so tight to wedge into place.
Specifically the ‘pinched’ part, circles in green below.So far, so good. Commuting with the car. Parked it sits at 14.3~, driving it averages 13.8~. Turning on/off all accessories (seat heaters, blower, lights, defroster) the voltage is unaffected.
6-3-2020 1-17-36 PM.png
Last edited by Codes2; 06-03-2020 at 01:29 PM.
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Just a bump for Bosch Remanned Alternators.
The remanufactured Bosch Alternator is still crushing it. Voltage averages 13.8. If it fluctuates: Low is 13.7, high is 14.1.
The battery is always at a great level when I return to the car after it being parked for 3 days.
That said, and while my CEL doesn’t come on, I do get the code 2DED (Power management, standby current control).
I’ll dig into this soon (ISTA+), but it’s low priority for me since the battery is always at the 12.6vdc after sitting for 3 days.
(no new peripherals have been installed. car locks and appears to fully shut down without issue.)
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Originally Posted by Codes2
Just a bump for Bosch Remanned Alternators.
The remanufactured Bosch Alternator is still crushing it. Voltage averages 13.8. If it fluctuates: Low is 13.7, high is 14.1.
The battery is always at a great level when I return to the car after it being parked for 3 days.
That said, and while my CEL doesn’t come on, I do get the code 2DED (Power management, standby current control).
I’ll dig into this soon (ISTA+), but it’s low priority for me since the battery is always at the 12.6vdc after sitting for 3 days.
(no new peripherals have been installed. car locks and appears to fully shut down without issue.)I see you have been much more active here. Great job on posting with all of your troubleshooting. Believe me your posts about your findings are very valuable. I’m glad you’re on the up side right now. Hopefully that is the end of it. I’ve owned a lot of cars throughout my life and even though I do almost all of my own repairs electrical problems can be very complicated and sometimes we just have to leave it for the pros to thoroughly troubleshoot the whole car. About 30 years ago I had a Ford that was going though alternators like every other. I was so frustrated that I was getting so many bad alternators from the auto parts stores and at the end when I went to a electric specialist they pinpointed where the problem was. I had a short in the system. An aftermarket radio that I had installed just two simple wires that were backwards was killing alternators. He reran the wires correctly and rebuilt the last alternator that It killed and I was out of there trouble free the rest of that cars life. If you have ever added anything aftermarket to your car consider them a potential culprit. You might even have it wired right and the problem could be internal.
Great mod on that AC/Alternator bracket. That should make all these re-installations much easier. From my research I’m finding there is variations in the way the alternator is mounted in these cars. The year and model do play a role. Some of these manuals are even wrong. I have a March built 2007 335i E90 and I found that the AC compressor and the Alternator share a bracket. The key is to break that bracket loose so that you can get the slight clearance necessary to slide the alternator out without the need to remove the Oil Filter Housing or the Intake Manifold. In order to remove that bracket the AC compressor has to at least be moved/tilted about an inch. There are 3 13mm bolts that have to be removed in order to do that and one of those bolts is under the front of the compressor and not visible from the top. It can however been seen barely from the bottom. Once the 3 bolts are removed and the AC compressor moved an inch you have access to that bracket and there are 3 bolts that hold that. The 3 bracket bolts don’t need to be removed they just need to be loosened so that you can just get the clearance necessary to slide the alternator out. you obviously know this already as you have modified the bracket so that the bracket doesn’t need to be loosened every time you want to remove and install the alternator. A mod that probably saves about 25min every time you reinstalled another alternator. I bet you can install a E90 alternator faster that a BMW master tech now. lol! anyways just my 2 cents for those in need.
I don’t think I would trust any other brand other than OE Bosch for this job. Not to mention the slight size difference doesn’t help at all. I ordered mine from FCP. I also ordered a regulator from them. At the end I found that my original alternator was fine so I just replaced the regulator. The regulator is the updated part number F00M346088 that others have reported throws a E297 code and sure enough it gives me the same code as well even after clearing it it just comes back. However, the alternator is running fine and is always in the correct voltage range. Since others have reported the E297 code not really impairing anything I’m not going to sweat it too much. Anyways Code keep us posted
. Thanks!
Last edited by salzamani; 07-09-2020 at 11:59 AM.
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Hmm .. An interesting problem, considering the fact that you are only supplying original parts, everything should be fine. On average, my car’s power consumption is no more than 14 vdc. I suspect you may have an error in the control box or short-circuit a connection somewhere causing more power to be consumed. Try to check your generator again and maybe the problem lies in it. Whenever I have questions like this, I try to reach out to professionals in the field such as thetoolscout.com. When I was looking for a good generator for my camper, this is where I found help.
Last edited by Villemms; 01-24-2021 at 03:37 PM.
Originally Posted by White94RX
. Thanks!